1968 Ace 100
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- Posts: 1
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1968 Ace 100
I have 2 1968 Ace 100s, survivors, I would like to service them starting with gas and oil change. Is the transmission and crankcase oil the same thing, Add 1 1/4 pint of sae 30 2 cycle oil?
- socalhodaka
- Posts: 927
- Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:31 am
Re: 1968 Ace 100
Transmission oil is gear oil, like Bel Ray gear saver. Gas oil is 2 stroke oil.
- Bullfrog
- Posts: 2784
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 4:05 pm
- Location: Oregon, 12 miles from the center of the Hodaka Universe(Athena)
Re: 1968 Ace 100
No, not quite right. There are three different types of oils you would use in your Hodaka.
1) "Crankcase"/transmission oil - goes in at the removable plug with a dipstick in the clutch cover. Long ago (1960's - 1970's) the factory recommended using non-detergent 30 wt oil for the transmission/clutch. Also long ago (same era) oil blenders (manufacturers?) designed oils with additives to optimize oils for transmission lubrication AND for "wet clutch" operation. These are commonly called motorcycle transmission oils. These oils from reputable makers are the BEST for your Hodaka transmission/clutch. (Check out BelRay and Silkolene) NOTE: I worked in the Service Department at PABATCO/Hodaka in Athena, Oregon in the 1970's - and we made the switch to the "purpose designed" transmission oils at that time (but the factory would not change their published recommendation . . . which had worked since the 1930's . . . so why change for some new-fangled oil?) If you go searching, you will find the "wet clutch" gear oils are rated at 70/80/90 wt (not 30wt) - that is OK. The two types of oil ("gear oil" and "motor oil") are rated on different viscosity scales -- and 70/80wt gear oil is virtually the equivalent of 30wt motor oil, so don't be concerned by that. Also note that when you drain the transmission oil through the drain plug, you will only be able to drain about 16 of the 20 ounces of oil -- so you should only pour in 16 ounces of new oil. If you pour in 20 ounces, the transmission will be over-filled. This won't damage anything, but it will probably result in oil puddling on the top of the engine as the excess oil is slowly forced out of the transmission vent. (messy, but no damage)
2) "Two stroke oil" is designed for mixing with gasoline to be run through the carburetor. The gas/oil mix provides lubrication for the engine internal bearings and for the interface between the piston and the cylinder wall. Here again the 1970's factory recommendation was a left over relic from early in the last century. This recommendation was based on using plain old motor oil mixed in the gas at a ratio of 16 parts gasoline and 1 part oil (16:1) for break in and 20:1 for regular running. Again, by the 1970's (in Athena) we were running "purpose built" "two-stroke pre-mix oils" at ratios as recommended by the reputable oil makers. Common ratios used were 24 or 26:1 for racing and 32 or 40:1 for all around riding. You can quite safely use a modern two-stroke pre-mix oil in your Hodakas now - just be sure to use NON-ETHANOL premium grade fuel! (another long story could be told here)
3) Fork oil - same story as above. Purpose made fork oils are available. 30wt would be a good starting point for your models of Hodies.
Have fun with the bikes!
Ed
1) "Crankcase"/transmission oil - goes in at the removable plug with a dipstick in the clutch cover. Long ago (1960's - 1970's) the factory recommended using non-detergent 30 wt oil for the transmission/clutch. Also long ago (same era) oil blenders (manufacturers?) designed oils with additives to optimize oils for transmission lubrication AND for "wet clutch" operation. These are commonly called motorcycle transmission oils. These oils from reputable makers are the BEST for your Hodaka transmission/clutch. (Check out BelRay and Silkolene) NOTE: I worked in the Service Department at PABATCO/Hodaka in Athena, Oregon in the 1970's - and we made the switch to the "purpose designed" transmission oils at that time (but the factory would not change their published recommendation . . . which had worked since the 1930's . . . so why change for some new-fangled oil?) If you go searching, you will find the "wet clutch" gear oils are rated at 70/80/90 wt (not 30wt) - that is OK. The two types of oil ("gear oil" and "motor oil") are rated on different viscosity scales -- and 70/80wt gear oil is virtually the equivalent of 30wt motor oil, so don't be concerned by that. Also note that when you drain the transmission oil through the drain plug, you will only be able to drain about 16 of the 20 ounces of oil -- so you should only pour in 16 ounces of new oil. If you pour in 20 ounces, the transmission will be over-filled. This won't damage anything, but it will probably result in oil puddling on the top of the engine as the excess oil is slowly forced out of the transmission vent. (messy, but no damage)
2) "Two stroke oil" is designed for mixing with gasoline to be run through the carburetor. The gas/oil mix provides lubrication for the engine internal bearings and for the interface between the piston and the cylinder wall. Here again the 1970's factory recommendation was a left over relic from early in the last century. This recommendation was based on using plain old motor oil mixed in the gas at a ratio of 16 parts gasoline and 1 part oil (16:1) for break in and 20:1 for regular running. Again, by the 1970's (in Athena) we were running "purpose built" "two-stroke pre-mix oils" at ratios as recommended by the reputable oil makers. Common ratios used were 24 or 26:1 for racing and 32 or 40:1 for all around riding. You can quite safely use a modern two-stroke pre-mix oil in your Hodakas now - just be sure to use NON-ETHANOL premium grade fuel! (another long story could be told here)
3) Fork oil - same story as above. Purpose made fork oils are available. 30wt would be a good starting point for your models of Hodies.
Have fun with the bikes!
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
Re: 1968 Ace 100
The dipstick is read After being screwed back in, bike level. Unusual, but that's the correct way.
I'd check the air cleaner element also. By now the original will probably have crumbled away; new ones are available.
I'd check the air cleaner element also. By now the original will probably have crumbled away; new ones are available.
Summerland, B.C.
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