1971 hodaka wombat 125

[btsmith]

Hi - new to the forum and new to Hodaka altogether. was in process of trading a vintage jeep of mine and guy offered me a 1971 hodaka 125 wombat. bike looks very cool and could see myself really enjoying this thing. any idea of value as he does have title and all pics appear to have all parts. tks in advance.

[matt glascock]

Wombat was introduced in 1972. It is a terrific, true dual-purpose/enduro scooter. They really got it right. Most were stripped down and raced. Having a complete bike puts you ahead of the game. Before pulling the trigger, I would suggest two things in rapid sequence. Post as many pictures to this forum as you can and of all aspects of the bike including detail shots of the entire induction system and drive train, wheels, and pipe and 2) if you are not experienced with 2-stroke bikes, get it into the hands of someone who is. In about an hour of examination (leak down, compression, and electrical system testing and such) and a test drive, you should be able to tell if the bike is just this side of sacked out. If you can wrench, the parts for a complete bottom-end overhaul will run a couple hundy. If you need a bore and can do the work, the parts will run a twice that and change, all in. If you send it to a pro for a stem-to-stern overhaul to better than new condition, you are looking at around $1000. I really love mine and I only run errands on it if I know I have the time to chat with people about it - its that cool.

[taber hodaka]

Matt are you including rebuilding the crank in that couple hundy?

[matt glascock]

I wish. My mistake. I forgot to mention that. Lets hope the big end bearing is sweet and it spins like a greased top! Thanks for pointing that out Clarence.

[taber hodaka]

I don't think it costs me more than about $50.00 for seal;s bearings and new screws and I only use bearings from Japan, the U.S. or Germany. ------------- Clarence

[btsmith]

Hi Matt and taber - thanks so much for the input. that explains why I couldn't find anything online for a 1971 model. as suggested, here are some pics he's sent me so far. any idea what model it really is? also, he tells me he's not heard it run but says that engine is not seized and would likely need tank cleaned out, carb cleaned, and fuel line replaced and he feels that would do it. also said something about a seal on the front tire/wheel has 'come out' and needs to be re-installed. any additional thoughts appreciated. tks, Brian.

[viclioce]

Looks pretty complete. Since it’s pre-1973 it didn’t need turn signals. Looks like a Model 94 Wombat with the enduro lighting kit added. I think the dent in the end of the flame thrower pipe can be hammered out.

It could be a patina restore, leaving paint and most of everything as is, or it can be stripped down and completely restored. It’s all up to you! These bikes are easy to work on, once you figure out how to do it, especially with help from this forum! I’m on my 7th restore now and new nothing about them prior to my first, 6+ years ago!

Great bike and best of luck with it. Victor

[taber hodaka]

What a good looking bike. --------- Clarence

[matt glascock]

Yep, that's a Model 94 Wombat. They did not need any accessory lighting kit as they were delivered street-legal. They are great bikes and the one you're considering looks complete and in great shape for a nearly 50 year old bike. Sweet!!

[btsmith]

Victor and Matt - thanks so much for the additional input. also, just received this from the seller which makes me somewhat nervous but in talking to the guy, he seems like he's telling me all he knows. "I apologize it is a 1972 Hodaka Wombat 125, and after thinking about it the only concern I have is the kick starter I have never messed with it, I hope it does not require opening up the engine, that is one thing I was going to mention to you on the phone when we talk. I don't know and I don't want to see you find out the hard way. but if your fine with it.. I can be too."

is there anything I can ask him to do to ensure nothing is seized or is this one just gotta roll the dice and see if insides look as good as outside? tks, Brian.

[matt glascock]

With 1453 on the clock and the general appearance of the bike, I can't imagine that the internal components are anything but pristine. The bike tells a story. The visible damage to the tank and pipe describe a guy in the 70's who decides he wants to try motorcycling. Unfortunately, he wadded it up twice, but good, within the first 3 miles. The 1400 accrued when a buddy bummed it for a month while his car was in the shop. It then migrated further and further into the back of his garage and there she sat for the next 48 years. I just made all that $4it up, but I'm probably not far off. It has to be on its stock bore and with its appearance, I can't imagine any engine modifications have occurred. Those are two questions likely not needed here. You have a totally sweet "survivor". The seals are likely hard so even if it passes a leakdown test, they will likely fail quickly. Changing the clutch-side seal requires splitting the crankcase. If I can do it, anyone can. Step-by-step help right here. A Wombat Official Hodaka Workshop Manual is a must-have.

PS- Clarence, you're right. The figure I quoted was a vague recollection from when I ordered a rebuild kit for a CW a couple years ago. That included shifter parts and more. I also ordered an air boot. Sorry. I hate to make incorrect statements here.

[dirty_rat]

The kick starter was a somewhat weak area of the early Hodaka's. If you kicked them correctly, they would last forever (or almost). The problems occurred when people would just kick away at the started, without pre-loading it. This would cause the internal "cam lobes" on the starter shaft to wear and the roller cage to spread and crack. Once this occurred the kick starter would slip and make an awful noise.

As noted by others, being a 40+ year old bike, it would probably be best to replace the seals and gaskets on the bike soon (the old ones might still work for a short time, but they could begin to fail and leak at any time). If you are at all mechanically inclined, the engine is a very simple design (including the transmission) and easy to work on. To replace the seals, etc. you have to split the cases and that would be a good time to inspect the kick start mechanism and replace any suspect parts with the new, upgraded parts that are available from Hodaka-parts.com.

[Al Harpster]

Seems like btsmith is asking for a dollar value on this bike.

Doesn't run.

Something about a Kickstarter concern that could result in an engine disassembly & a new kick shaft plus a new kick shaft cage.

If the speedometer is correct, never had a broken cable, what's a dollar number for a moderate risk taker that's not a Hodaka nut (yet)?

If I didn't have to pay shipping ( no title ) I'd go $1500.

As a Hodaka nut I'd go $2000 if clear title.

I just spent the extra $500 in my time, endless fees and associated costs to get a bike titled here in Ohio. No lawyer, just me. Well, I do value my time. And it was a load of time.

I'd go $2k max with title as-is no start condition.

[btsmith]

Matt/dirty rat/al/victor/all - you guys are really awesome and appreciate all the advice/guidance. good news is bike does have clean title and i know what a pain that can be in time and $$. to be honest - you guys have made it an easy decision for me as love everyone jumping in to offer assistance, etc. and that's a part of why I like this bike in particular. I feel current owner and I have been honest with one another and have a fair trade agreement with my jeep (which he knows needs work too) - so think we both know what we're getting into anyways. hopefully have the trade done this weekend or early next week. i'll be sure to update everyone what i've found, send some new pics, and hopefully i can return some advice to the board down the road soon.

[matt glascock]

Excellent! You'll love it!! Its a very capable bike and a blast to ride.

[viclioce]

Congrats on your decision! Now you decide “fix it to run,” or “Fix it like new?” Either way, you have a great time ahead of you! Victor

[btsmith]

hey guys - trying to make the deal work with this hodaka and current owner is nervous I won't be happy with it due to unknowns. after further discussion with him, he is saying the kickstarter issue mentioned before is such that the kickstarter pedal goes down and feels like there is compression but it will not return back "at all" without pulling it back mechanically. additionally, he mentioned he noticed the ignition key missing and assembly appears as if someone stuck screwdriver in it instead of getting new key. I know I can get new assembly here for around $60 but what could be "broken" or wrong with kickstarter and any idea on cost of parts it would take me to fix? is Al's estimate of around $500 for kickstarter and cage what I should expect? tks

[matt glascock]

The kick crank issue may be as simple as replacing the return spring which takes 5 minutes and parts are very inexpensive. I've seen several examples of main switches that have been modified so that the lock can be turned with a small flat blade screw driver. If the switch still works, replacement is optional and is an easy direct swap.

[Bullfrog]

From the description of symptoms, the kick start issue is almost certainly all "external" (dodged a bullet there . . . sort of). I've noticed that the kick start lever on the bike is from another model of Hodaka - and is "wrong" for your machine. The stock lever will be more functional in getting out of the way when folded in. Replacement of lever and spring will be easy and can be done with engine in the frame. When you get ready we can talk you through it.

NOTE: On the "dodged a bullet" comment. While you likely won't have to go inside the engine to get the kick starter working . . . you still have a two-stroke engine which MUST be air-tight to operate properly, which has half-century old crankshaft seals. They may not be air-tight now. If it happens that they ARE sealing properly now . . . they won't for long. (It's OK to ask how I know. ) When the seals go bad, you MAY get lucky and it will start sucking in transmission oil, blowing blue smoke and running bad (clutch side seal). But it could just as easily be that your first clue that a seal has failed is the rear tire skidding on the pavement at 30mph due to a piston seizure caused by the magneto side seal failing. Soooooo . . . you do NEED to work over the engine to replace the seals (most folks replace the ball bearings at the same time while they are "in there" 'cuz it doesn't cost much for bearings - and you don't want to go back "in" for bearings a bit later). Time to start studying up on two-stroke pressure and vacuum testing if you are going to be your own mechanic. It truly isn't difficult - but it is detail oriented.

Y'all are gonna have fun!
Ed

[Darrell]

In addition to the Road Toad type kick lever the front wheel (or tire) looks out of proportion to me. Is it a 19" wheel with a 3.25 tire?

[Darrell]

In addition to the Road Toad type kick lever the front wheel (or tire) looks out of proportion to me. Is it a 19" wheel with a 3.25 tire?
[Nah, I checked and compared with mine so it's probably an illusion from lens perspective. It does look kind of fat though compared to the stock NITTO, maybe 3.00-21?/quote]

[btsmith]

thanks guys. yeah, more I get into the details, looks like there are a couple of things "off" about it but still looks pretty clean. Looks like it has parts from a 94 and 94A so not sure what it really is (or supposed to be) until i see the title tomm. Looks like it's a hybrid of some sort at this pt. From what i can tell from pics and online research, has white gas cap, teardrop tail light, kickstarter not quite right for model, and gearshift is straight and not curved. also, wheels, tires may not be "right". i'm meeting the owner tomm. will keep you guys posted but I think no matter what I'm gonna do my best to acquire this and make it "right". tks for all the help.

[matt glascock]

You're finding out one of the cool features that is engineered into Hodaka motorcycles. There is a significant parts application overlap between models and years. You'd be amazed at the swapping that has taken place, over the years, of every Hodaka I've acquired since being reexposed to Hodakavirus 19. Its just the kind of maneuvering that took place many years ago to keep the bike in service. Pretty smart engineering really.