I’m having an issue with the case halves not going together!
The cases fit together fine without the crank in place. But put in the crank and there about a 1/4” gap up front which won’t close. Tried 2 different cranks. Brand new dowel pin up front too. Case goes over the front dowel when the crank isn’t in the case.
Seems the crank turns fine in either case half separately, but put the cases together and the crank seems to be binding! I can’t make the front of the cases come together with the crank in the case & the crank starts binding. No clues on this one. Crank came out of this case. And the case was together correctly. Even had to drill out 2 screws to get them free.
So I’m not sure what to look at and could use some technical guesses. Don’t want to break an original Model 95 case!!! Victor
The only thing touching the crank when the cases come together are the right and left main bearings. If the c clip is seated properly on the clutch side it could be the depth of the mag side bearing, Check that this bearing is seated flat. slightly off will bind the crank. New seals are sometimes stiff and will cause drag on the crank, but not the binding you describe. The only shim should be on the mag side, you could also try putting the clutch on before putting the cases together. That will pull the crank tight to the bearing on this side, the side that sets the cranks centering in the case. I have also had cranks bind in the cases due to crank twist. This is why they used to weld the pins. Since you took it apart this is not likely your problem, but good information.
Victor, You posted a picture of the crank sitting in the right case half on Facebook. In that picture it appears that the crank is not seated straight and not fully into the right side bearing. Does it seat all the way? If so, then is it possible that your wooden assembly block is interfering by not having enough depth for the crank?
Dale
As far as I know. I used the crank which came out of this case as well as a second known good crank. So I’m guessing now, that either the right crank bearing isn’t sitting flush or there’s something wrong with the bearing itself. I can close the cases together just fine with the crank not placed in the cases.
Hers a photo of the right bearing with the snap ring showing it’s in the groove. The bearing also is seated flatly against the case. In fact, the snap ring is its usual difficult to remove. Are there any special tricks making pulling the snap ring easier? So the bearing looks OK.
Tried again. Can close cases with crank out, but not with crank in place. This is how much space is left when the crank binds up & won’t turn. Just a hair over 1/4”. The left case just stops, and the crank stops rotating. The left crank bearing falls out of the case, also it doesn’t stay held in by friction any longer. HELP!!!! Victor
OMG! I figured out the problem!!! I had the left crank shim on the right side, where it didn’t belong!!!! Arghhh!!!!!!!!!! Time for sealant. One thing’s for sure, I’ll never forget the crank shim only goes on the left side...... Victor
viclioce wrote: ↑Thu May 07, 2020 9:17 am
In fact, the snap ring is its usual difficult to remove. Are there any special tricks making pulling the snap ring easier?
The right tool for the job is a high quality snap ring plier. Makes the job simple. One of the few SnapOn tools that I own and I appreciate it every time I use it. I know that Hodaka-Parts also offers a quality pair. Here is a link. http://hodaka-parts.com/item.asp?cID=0&PID=6541
lost the manual. check (Hodaka Parts Inc) model 95 schematic.
Just like bingo B - 27 ------ B27.
902714 Crank shaft washer (left)
price $ 3.56.
It is a good picture, and a good practice to just double check once in awhile. ---------------Clarence
You should see the size of the snap ring pliers necessary to work on some of my farm equipment. I don't have a pair that sturdy because they are several hundred dollars. It's cheaper to have my dealer do it. When a snap ring is 3 inches in diameter and 1/4 inch thick it takes some serious leverage!
Dale. My son in law, the professional mechanic, gave them to me. Separate pairs which work in opposite directions. It appears there was a stress fracture in the metal, causing one side to crack away.
Nothing about Snap-On snap ring snapping due to snappy usage or snappy behavior! Victor
viclioce wrote: ↑Fri May 08, 2020 6:41 am
Dale. My son in law, the professional mechanic, gave them to me. Separate pairs which work in opposite directions. It appears there was a stress fracture in the metal, causing one side to crack away.
Nothing about Snap-On snap ring snapping due to snappy usage or snappy behavior! Victor
Okay, just checking...
A wise person once told me that if the task is difficult then there is a very strong chance that you are doing it wrong.
I have found that to hold true probably more times than I can remember!
My point was that with the correct snap ring pliers the task of removal and installation of the bearing snap ring is a breeze.
Well, I know I can squeeze the rings together, but being able to remove them usually requires a flat blade screw driver to lift a section of the snap ring up and out of the hole, once reduced in size to come out. Victor
Victor
Victor