Running Rough!

[Bullfrog]

To my knowledge there is NO way to pull the seal out (whether just a little bit or all the way), and still be able to depend on it to be AIR TIGHT. "Air tight" is a pretty tough standard - but required in this case. Something akin to a paint can lid opener will allow seal removal with the engine in the frame - but a new seal will be required. And it must be properly installed, oil the seal lips before installation, etc.

The high idle originally complained about could be as simple as a kinked throttle cable (not likely). Or it could be related to an air leak - at the intake manifold? At the base gasket? At the head gasket? Other place? Pressure test will tell you where.

Ed

[ossa95d]

I agree. Remember that we are attempting to do this with the crank in place I have never successfully pulled a crank seal with the engine assembled without ruining the seal. Quite often with a seal this small I have had to screw a sheet metal screw into the seal and pull it with that. I have never attempted this with the intention of reusing the same seal. However, please do a leakdown test before replacing the seal. It's the only way to know if the seal was ever part or all of the problem.

[JPark]

You need to pull straight out on the seal which means a 180 degree-ish bend. The coat hangers I like are the old made in USA type which are just strong enough to do the job. But they're a bit thick so I grind them down enough [and deburr] to slide in but leave enough sideways to take the load.

Slide it in at about 45 degrees and then move it over until it's against the outside of the seal. Lock picking experience or other forms of misspent youth experience can pay off here.

I doubt that a typical pick would be stiff enough.

I had to do this same seal about a month ago after I drove it in too far. The seal was fine and the old seal spring was okay. I like to check that the oil hole is free by spraying some WD40 or suchlike down the hole and if it comes out bearing instead of spitting back at you then all is well.

This all reminds me of a guy I used to race with back in the '60's who had a 200 Bultaco which ate mag side main bearings. I noticed the cases had no oil hole so I advised him to drill one. It stopped eating main bearings and seals and also went faster, but the way I looked at it as long as the guy in front of you is your friend it's all good.

I don't know if they were all that way or if that one had just missed a step in manufacturing.

[viclioce]

Well Alan went and bought a 90* pick and it worked. The seal is now leveled as shown in the diagram Captain Ed provided.

Now he will place the order for the float needle assemblies on Monday! Thanks to you both for helping me talk him through this. He was already thinking he needed to split the cases to push the seal back out from the inside! Victor

[[email protected]]

Thanks guys for your help. Let’s hope a float valve solves my problem

[Bullfrog]

You are going to order a new seal, right?

Ed

[viclioce]

That’s up to Alan. This was a brand new seal to begin with. Like I said he’s 1500 miles away from me. He was calling Terry this morning. Victor

[matt glascock]

There's just no good reason not to change the seal - especially after instrumenting it. There's also no reason to skip the leak down test. Both are cheap insurance against a world of hurt. Seals are a few bucks. Money for sure but nothing like a new top end.

[viclioce]

Matt. I’ve asked for info on how to build a leak down tester, but none had been provided, yet. I do have a compression tester, which connects to my spark plug hole. Will it be accurate enough to read 6 psi, if I build an intake blocking plate with an air valve, like from a tub less tire, as an air intake valve?

Alan is ordering a replacement seal. Like I keep saying, the bike is 1500 miles away from me and it’s not up to me to order the seal. But he has been convinced to order it. He’s likely on the phone with Terry now. Victor