Steen Hodaka 100 project

[Tether]

This is the Steen Hodaka 100 that I picked up a few days ago. This is pretty much the way I got it. The motor is a M prefix lower (early Super Rat) with an Ace 100 top end. Last year I made some deals with Thrownchain where he ended up getting an E motor from me. Luck is on my side, Dan still has the motor and is rebuilding the lower end for me. I will use the top end that came with the bike as it is in very good condition.
My plan is to return the bike as close to original as possible without breaking the bank.
Some parts might be challenging to find. Some of the major parts I know I will need are:
Shocks
Rims & spokes
Brake shoes
Cables.
I could not find any frame numbers and I don’t really know what model or year.
Any advice form the Steen guys out there will be appreciated.

[Bruce Young]

Tether, good find, now if you are looking for items to complete the project, I would suggest first contact Terry Larson at Hodaka-part INC in Missouri, send him an e-mail [email protected].
He has done a lot of work in the Steens bike building process, in the past few years, he has some parts and pieces for those machines, he also can help you with the ID of the machine. Next, concerning wheels and spokes, I would suggest Bucannon wheel and spoke company they can supply new wheels and spokes for the project. They have a web site. Last but not least is find another donor machine to get parts from, condition of parts would be an issue. Bruce

[Tether]

Thanks Bruce, good suggestions I will follow up.
I actually found this in Coeur d’Alene, ID. I don’t know how far that is from you but it is a little over 200 miles from me in Tonasket, WA.

[Bruce Young]

Tether keep me up to date on how the parts search goes, I may have contact,s other than Terry whom can help. But Terry is the best supplier that right off the top of my head for best resource for info and parts and pieces. The purple tank bike I have seen before on post,s and maybe even at Hodaka Days. I hope you where able to get it for a good price, Bruce

[Tether]

Searching on this forum I found where to find the frame numbers on the Steen. Located on the top of the left side of the swing arm mounting tab.
2MS499
Does anyone here know where to look these up? My search did not come up anything.

[Tether]

Making progress. Frame, tank and pipe are ready for paint which I will do this weekend. Found a NOS front wheel which I bought. Also bought a new rear rim but I need a hub and spokes.
I can’t seem to find brake shoes. I found a place that will reline them for $35 a set. That seems a little pricey but...

[viclioce]

That’s what it would cost to buy a new set for a Hodaka. So, if you can’t find new ones, that seems reasonable. Because, if you can’t stop....... Victor

[Tether]

Agreed Victor. I am sending the old brake shoes out for new linings today.
Bob

[Tether]

Progress report. Frame, tank and pipe painted. I am working on gathering parts. Thrownchain is almost done with the E code motor he is building for me. I talked with Terry at HPI the other day and it looks like he will have many of the small parts I will need. I’ll wait until I have a more complete list then make one big order and take advantage of the free shipping.
Maybe someone here can help me out, While cleaning the carburetor and reassembling it I discovered that the threads on the top of the main body where the mixing chamber cap threads on are buggered and the cap will not screw on. Looks like I will need a replacement carb body. The rest of the carb is in good condition.
My goal is to have this project complete by Hodaka Days so the wife can ride it in the parade.
Bob

[viclioce]

I would take it to a machinist and see if they can refurbish the threads. Don’t know if you can find a die that size, but you could measure and search it out. And maybe a thread file?

Your painting turned out very nice! Did you do anything with the seat/tail piece yet? Victor

[Tether]

The top part of threads are just gone, nothing to file. But maybe something could be done. I have a buddy that has an amazing machine shop I’ll have him take a look at it.

I do not plan to use the seat/tail piece. I am going for this look (photo stolen from the web)

[viclioce]

Maybe he can reduce the top of the carb so the cap can still screw on??? Victor

[JPark]

I've run into some carb tops [Ace 100 20mm] that look like they should fit but are loose and won't hold. Despite the body threads looking pooched, when you put the right top on they work just fine. Maybe 90 vs 100? Running change? Off of something else?

I was ready to bin a carb until I dug around in some bits and found the right one that was ever so slightly smaller, for some reason. It's been working great.

[thrownchain]

Paul Stannard at one time told me the 90 and 100 carbs are minimumly different, possibly the depth of the threads on the body so you have to have the correct cap for that carb.

[taber hodaka]

They cannot run loose as it wears the threads out. Finger tighten never use a wrench. Try any extra top off of another carb if you have any. ------------Clarence

[viclioce]

If you want to mail me the carb, I have about a 1/2 dozen carb tops for the VM20, some are NOS! I would gladly try all of them, if needed, to find one which might fit for you. I would then mail it back, with the top, assuming I find one that fits it well. Let me know. I’m always willing to Pay It Forward. This forum has done a lot for me over the course of 6 restores already! Victor

[Tether]

Victor,
I will probably take you up on your generous offer.
I am out of town for a couple of weeks taking care of some family matters. I will contact you when I get back.
Thanks.

[viclioce]

Very good! Here’s my mailing address & ph. #!
Victor Lioce
1088 Sunshine Way
Santa Fe, NM 87507
(505) 913-0558

[dirty_rat]

One other thing you an try. File off about 1 mm from the top of the carb body. This will let the top screw on lower and many times catch enough good threads to hold properly. But, I would only do that after you try other tops and none work.

[Bruce Young]

I know that there was a manf of new reproduction tops that where manf. there are two diff types of carbs and the tops where made to fit each. I think that maybe Greg Watkins in Arz has the manf of those tops now. Here are some pictures and ref of tops, if pictures don,t show up you can go to this site and put in search for Carb. Tops info should be there.

[viclioce]

I believe I have some of both in Bruce’s pics. When I bought my 03 Wombat I was given a 2 sided Plano tackle box full of carb parts. So send me that carb & I’ll see what I have which might fit & send it back to you! Victor

[Tether]

Victor,
The carburetor is on its way to you.
Thank you kindly.
Bob

[viclioce]

OK Bob! I’ll be watching for it and let you know what I find! Victor

[viclioce]

Bob! Your carb came today! Took me only 5 minutes to find a cap Which would tighten down and stop!

I recommend you get a thread file to have on hand for future use. Your threads are a bit flattened out at the top edge of the carb.

I also recommend when you are going to open the carb & remove the cap, that you press the choke lever down before unscrewing the cap or screwing the cap back on. This cap will work, but be careful to not cross thread or flatten any more threads on the top of this carb.

To make things easier I installed the missing bowl screw and replaced your slide spring as it was pretty rusted. I also included with your old cap and spring, a 90 & 100 main jet to give you something more to test with as I had several of these. The only thing I didn’t have was an O ring for your intake surface. Hope you have one of those.

I will mail the box back to you tomorrow! Good luck & I hope it helps. P.S. make sure you clean your main & pilot jet before using carb! Victor

[matt glascock]

Nice Victor!