What point gap do you have?

[DGardner]

What point gap do most of you end up with to get your points to open on the first line on the case? I set my gap on the points then put a timing light on it and ran the bike, I ended up with a 17 thousands gap on the points just to get the two lines to match up. I think the book said 15 thousands max. Am I missing something here? Thanks DG

[Dale]

I recall reading that the lines on the cases are not always spot on. I think the better method is to use a dial gauge with a buzz box. Then you can set the opening with reference to Top Dead Center. Once you do that, you can check your gap with a feeler gauge and use that as a reference in the future for that motor.
Dale

[DGardner]

Sounds like a good idea. Thanks Dale

[taber hodaka]

I have never had problems setting timing with point gap. I think the factory came up with point gap for a reason. More performance will be by proper carburetor tuning. Clarence

[rlkarren]

Clarence, I think that is what we, namely Doug, are asking. What did the good folks at HODAKA/PABATCO know, that lead them to specify .012" - .015" point gap?

I visited Doug yesterday afternoon to troubleshoot my charging system and while I was there we decided to test the point gap. To make a long story short, we used a timing light connected to an external 12v power source and the induction clip over the spark plug wire. Using the timing light, we kept adjusting the point gap until the flywheel mark and case mark at 12 O'clock lined up. We ended up with .018" on mine; and it clearly runs better than ever. Not just a nominal change in performance, but an immediate noticeable difference in overall performance.

I wonder if someone else might try this? It is a bit tedious removing and replacing the flywheel each time to test, but results continue to be interesting.

Roger

[Bullfrog]

Why did you remove/reinstall the flywheel repeatedly? Timing can be adjusted and tested without flywheel removal.

NOTE: Generally, the marks on the case are pretty well located . . . but if you are serious about accurate timing it would be good to verify (using a dial indicator) that the marks are in the right places.

So, at this time, it sounds like point gap of .018" results in proper timing on your machine. The question remains, are the marks on the cases in the right places? (This may indicate that new production points differ slightly from OEM/NOS points produced 40 years ago. Not necessarily a bad thing, just different.)

Ed

[dcooke007]

I have to say that I have not found the gap method of setting points very accurate on our Hodaka's for the last year or so.....at least as far as timing accuracy with the new points available. Athough the engine runs "ok" timing is retarded and performance suffers. I had been wondering if something had changed also. Since most of the engines I work on are on my bench, I usually use a dial indicator to check the timing marks on the flywheel and engine case and have found them to be consistently accurate.

For the engine to be "properly timed" the points should just begin to open when the timing marks align. To accomplish this I usually slowly turn the engine counter clock wise and watch for the points to just begin to open when the timing marks align. Usually takes a couple attempts rocking the flywheel back and forth, adjusting and watching the point opening with a small bright flashlight. This gets me very close to desired point of ignition. After setting the points this way I would have expected to see the point gap close to the Hodaka spec but that was not the case. I was surprised to find the gap much larger and sometimes over .020 inch. I even double checked my results with a timing light and my eye ball method ended up with the timing very close but very SLIGHTLY retarded. I think it would be interesting to compare an original set of points to current production. From a personal PREFERENCE I would rather see the point gap closer to .012 to .014 inch. It concerns me a bit to see such large point gaps with timing set properly but for most practical applications it does not seem to cause any reliability issues. Perfromance wise setting the points to open at the proper moment does improve performance and with my recent observations is worth the effort. Not throwing any stones here just my .02 cents and effort to assist.

Danny Cooke

[DGardner]

Ed....I have a cam out of a flywheel that I set the point gap with, I just found it easier to do it that way than trying to set them through the hole in the flywheel. DG

[taber hodaka]

Then and now in the old days 50's we were always told points were one half of spark plug gap WHY I DO NOT KNOW. When I had the shop I set the points just starting to open on the timing mark using a 1&1/2 volt battery and small bulb. With my eye sight today I am now setting the points at .015 using the cam like flyingdg the ace 90 is running good but I will check timing with the marks. I am still using NOS old stock points . Thanks to all Clarence