34mm Steering Stem Conversion Pin Query

[Hunty]

Guys hoping that someone can assist me with this query, I purchased a ‘34mm Steering Stem Conversion (38765)” off Paul at Strictly Hodaka a couple of years ago, alright probably 3 – 4 years, for a Suspension & Front Wheel conversion Project (to CR125m alloy Triple Clamps, CR125m 34mm Leading Axle Forks & 21” CR125m Wheel) for my Dirt Squirt, that I have been playing with over the last couple of years.

Presuming that Hodaka-Parts are using the same supplier as Paul was for the for the Steering Stems (http://hodaka-parts.com/item.asp?cID=0&PID=471), that they are selling, my question is what is the top hole (in the Stem) tapped out (thread) for.

I have tried Metric - 14mm standard and fine, and 9/16 UNF , with no success, any assistance on this is greatly appreciated.

Hunty.

[swcaudill]

I don't know if this will help but the threads on my Hodaka 100's stems are 18tpi. I made a conversion on my early squirt to tapered roller bearings and the stem is 1.00" and the threads were 18 tpi. I would think his conversion set would be the same.
Good Luck
Sterling

[dirty_rat]

Are you referring to the external threads at the top of the stem, or the internal threaded hole at the top of the stem?

[Hunty]

Good point Dirty Rat, internal thread at the top of the Stem is the one.

[dirty_rat]

Mine appear to be 14mm x 1.5mm thread pitch.

[Hunty]

Thanks Dirty_rat, I will get onto to tracking a couple of 14mmx1.5mm Fine Pitch Set Screws down, I went back and retraced my steps I had been testing with 14mmx1.25mm Pitch (Spark Plug Thread) rather than 14mmx1.5mm Fine.

[bcruder]

Conversion to tapered roller bearings is certainly stronger but may be overkill if one is not increasing the bike's mass or that of the fork/wheel.

As with family hand-me-downs, I replaced the standard super-light 35mm weight Betor forks on an Ossa Phantom with longer-travel magnesium Marzocchi forks.

I then had the steering stem from the Betor forks turned down slightly on a lathe to match the cups on the Hodaka. The remaining wall thickness on the Betor stem was sufficient for the mass of the Hodaka. The stem length was only a few mm longer than that of the Hodaka and required neither cutting nor rethreading. The fit to the Hodaka steering head and cups was surprisingly good and I did not have to change steering stops.

Old and new forks used the same diameter axle and the width between the two sides was close enough that an extra washer was sufficient to center the Hodaka wheel. The Betor fork did not use a brake stay but instead had a tenon in the bottom of one leg that locked into a mortise on the brake face. I fabricated a brace that wrapped around one fork leg and offered a place for the Hodaka brake stay. Everything else fit.

Similar but slightly heavier 35mm Betor forks appeared on all of the Spanish and some Italian bikes from the 1970's. I recollect axles were generally centered on the fork legs. The 35mm Betors were also used on some Huskies but I recollect the axles were on the front of the fork legs and I cannot vouch for how well they might adapt. The Spanish and Italian bikes were lighter than the Husky and close to the Hodaka.

After installing 38mm Simons forks on a 79 Husky, the original 35mm forks were surplus. I recollect that they were somewhat harsh but no worse than stock Hodaka. They looked similar as if they could similarly adapt. With their front'-mounted axles, they appeared somewhat heavier and probably offered too much travel for the smaller bike.

Perhaps with enough effort, every dirt bike is somehow "family" with every other.