Ace 100 Spark

[Mountain]

Good Morning All,
I am trying to get spark to my ACE 100 and thought a second set of eyes on my ignition plate might clear something up. I have gone through the site and looked at the tech notes and wiring diagrams. I think this is simpler than that though. The wire that is going to the points (blue) is soldered to the end of the condenser to the ground wires. I don't think this is correct but I am not sure where to relocate it. I tried to post a pic to the old site but it keeps saying a 17.3KB file is too big. That is what brought me here. Thanks for any and all help!
MTN

[Dale]

MTN, Okay, I will take a stab at this. First, the blue wire from the points does indeed solder to the condenser along with at least two other leads. One would be from the ignition coil (black I believe) and the other from the exciting coil that should be mounted on the right side of the magneto frame. Where is that exciting coil? It is missing in the picture. I think the exciting coil should be mounted right there on an Ace 100 and if I am correct, that would be your issue...
Dale

[hodacrackerslim]

Hello,is the "exciting coil" the same as the lighting coil?
Is the exciting coil even needed for ignition?
What's in the picture sure looks like what I have on the Mighty Womace and it works just fine.
Of course,I have no lights,so who needs a lighting coil?
Actually,the Mighty Womace V3.0,the current version,should by all rights be called the Mighty SuperComace,as it now sits in my SuperCombat frame.
For some reason,I just never could come to grips with the SuperCombat engine.
On the suggestion of the Hodocta hisself,Rad Randy Smith, I sold it and installed theAce 100 engine from a Steen that I already had.It is now wearing an early reeded Rat cylinder with 24 mm Mikuni,from that auction site we won't name here, and a K&N filter, as set up by Bill Cook and Hodaka Dave.It already had the early Super Rat head and runs just great.
Early 250 Honda Elsinore forks and wheel assembly was installed by Mr. Smith as well.Lots of cursing,cutting,grinding and welding needed to make that work right as the Honda front end did not play well with the Hodaka frame.
It is now wearing an early reeded Rat cylinder as set up by Hodaka Dave and runs just great.
A Swenco swingarm was already on it ,and the rear is controlled by early non gas Works Performance shocks.Honda fenders,front and rear,painted orange with paint(Pactra RC251 I think,if I remember right), intended for Lexan bodied R/C cars, keeps it looking like a Hodaka should,and almost matches the orange plastic gas tank sourced from that auction site that shall remain nameless.The Honda rear fender needed only minor surgery to fit the Hodaka frame.It also allowed me to eliminate the whole steel air box.A homemade metal side panel does the deed on the
right side,behind the side mounted pipe,while another piece of that same plastic forms the front and is bolted to the stock airbox mounts on the front.The left side panel is bolted on to the same mount with holes drilled and tapped into a piece of aluminum found at the local hardware store.The whole thing breathes through a K&N filter setup for a Hodaka that I got from Greg Watkins when he came through this area a few years ago.Access to the filter is from the left side by 3 Allen head bolts.
I've rambled on too long now,so I'll stop here.
Tim (Hodacrackerslim)Carpenter
84V on a Hodaka in MOVMX

[Dale]

Totally different. The lighting coil provides the current to light the lamps. The exciting coil is part of the ignition and works with the ignition coil to provide the spark. Without an exciting coil, I do not think you are going to have any spark... or excitement.
Dale

[Mountain]

So are we thinking that I am missing the exciting coil? I just ordered a used stator plate from Bruce in Idaho so I hope that solves the problem. I have the coil mounted on the frame also and it is about 2" longer that what the tabs welded for. Will this coil still provide spark? I guess what I am asking is a coil a coil or do I need to get the smaller one to get spark on this bike? Here is a picture of my bike. I saved her from certain death by parting out. Thanks for all of the help!

MTN

[Dale]

Yes, you are missing a coil. It is part number 923002 (Ignition primary coil). Your stator coming from Bruce should resolve this issue. I can not answer your question regarding the larger ignition coil (too big for the mount points). If it were me, I would source a different ignition coil too (part number 923008).
Dale

[Mountain]

Here is the coil that I have on my set up. As you can see it is a little big. Anyone think I can get spark off of this baby with another stator plate or will I need to get a different coil. Thanks!

MTN

[bobwhitman]

Before you buy a new coil; try that. I think it is likely to work.
Bob

[Mountain]

Thanks! I talked to Bruce today and he told me that this coil is off a little later year Ace 100 but it will still work. I hope to have the new (used) stator plate in the mail today and I will let everyone know if I get spark. There is nothing like getting spark for the first time, I love that feeling!
Thanks!
MTN

[Mountain]

I got my stator plate and I got spark last night (thanks Bruce, it is great). That is the good news. I could not get it to fire at all though. I put a little gas down the sparkplug hole and tried kicking her over and nothing. I have good compression (feels good at least as I don't have a comp tester). I stripped down the carb and cleaned it out real good but that didn't help. I even tried (don't hate me) a shot of starter fluid to see if it would catch. Usually if you have fire and fuel you are good to hook. I also can't seem to find the neutral on this bike, I have it on a stand and the real wheel turns when I kick it over in every position. An suggestions??

[taber hodaka]

The coil and bracket was made for the ace 90 it was to replace the internal coil also considered a race item at the time it has a bolt on bracket. I just don't use either on a small engine. A shot of gas from a oil can or I will do or a half teaspoon of gas down the plug hole. For neutral I would remove the shift cover turn the rear wheel over slowly and pull the shift rod out all the way. that would be low gear. Push it in slightly and you should find neutral. Unless one of the internal springs by the shift ball are deformed. Set the points and check the timing.

[Bullfrog]

I'd agree, check the timing. Having spark and having spark at the right time are significantly different things.

Ed

[Mountain]

I am hoping to get the timing all set tonight, have not anytime in the shop but I will let you all know how I make out. Thanks for the advice!

MTN