B+ clutch pressure piece

[wildzebra]

The small rod that goes in the case. I thought I lost mine. Well I found 2. One sits flush and the other is a bit longer and sticks out. Which is proper? I don’t see a length in the manual.

[JayLael]

The longer one. The short one is likely one of the kick starter rollers for the one way clutch there.

[viclioce]

For reference, that roller bearing is the same part number as the 125 kickshaft roller bearings! Victor

[wildzebra]

Hmm the longer one doesn’t allow for any free play adjustments. The short one that sits flush allows for adjustment rings.

[JayLael]

The height of the clutch varies when the plates get worn it gets taller. It's possible someone shaved the pusher piece shorter. As long as it works then it must be ok then.

[thrownchain]

Somebody measure a known good one and give the spec....

[wildzebra]

Thanks throwchain pretty much what I’m getting at. Brand new clutch plates, the longer one seems like it will work sans shims. Shorter one with shims. Just wondering which is proper. Thanks.

[thrownchain]

How much does the longer one stick out past the housing? From memory the correct one is just proud of the housing. Not flush. But it shouldn't stick out too far. Too far would lead to binding issues. Or even clutch release problems, there has to be slack in the mechanism to give proper clutch.

[viclioce]

You can see my Ace B here. The cover is pulled back just enough..... Zoom in. You can see it’s just a bit proud of its hole! Victor

[matt glascock]

Nice shot Victor.

[wildzebra]

Thanks guys, yes the long one sits just proud, short one flush. I have to check again, but the long one allowed NO shims yo be used. Thanks. I just wanted a confirmation.

[thrownchain]

Make sure the clutch and the hardware is assembled properly. Almost sounds like the clutch isn't seated where it should be.

[viclioce]

Not to sound “funny” but I was having clutch issues as well, trying to get things adjusted correctly. Everything kept fitting too tight.

I finally figured out that it was because I wasn’t using the case gasket yet. The gasket is of considerable thickness when you compare it to the shims used! So I just have to ask, are you doing your fitment with, or without, the case gasket in place? Victor

[wildzebra]

With gasket and throwchain you might be into something and I think that’s what’s going on. My clutch nut is stripped so I can’t properly tighten it until I source another. Thanks

[matt glascock]

Bingo. That nut has a very specific torque spec. Likely clutch cover throw-out bearing boss binding on the nut.

[wildzebra]

Matt apparently the torque wrench I had doesn’t click going counter clockwise and stripped my nut.

[matt glascock]

Aaaaarrrrrgh!

[Dale]

Matt apparently the torque wrench I had doesn’t click going counter clockwise and stripped my nut.

I may have the same torque wrench. Craftsman? I took mine back for a replacement in hopes that it was just faulty but the replacement was the same. I was very disappointed!

[thrownchain]

Standard threads are right handed, so having a "click" wrench not work on a left hand thread would not be out of the ordinary. I still use a flex beam type torque wrench that works well in either direction. That being said, putting enough torque on the nut to strip it out should have raised a red flag at some point.

[viclioce]

Wow. Stripping the threads on the clutch nut is scary. Is it the nut that is stripped? I hope for your sake it’s not the threads on the crank, or you’ll be looking for another crank shaft!

Can you chase the threads on the crank with a thread die? Might buy you enough for a new nut to grip it well enough as long as it’s not over torqued again.

I use an inexpensive 3/8” drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight which clicks in both directions. It was $19.95. Victor

[wildzebra]

The crank threads are fine, the nut threads on pretty tight then slips. I suspect it was over tightened in the past. Yes the red flag was man this is way too tight it should have clicked...slip... I have a harbor freight close I’ll have to pick one up. I couldn’t find a nut locally so far.

[viclioce]

Ace Hardware is always a good place. Check with them. Bring the old nut with you. Also Lowe’s has metric nuts & bolts plus a sizer on several posts to determine size & thread pitch. Victor

[ossa95d]

I suspect it will be very difficult to find a left hand thread nut that size outside of your friendly Hodaka parts supplier. I do remember being told that when those nuts were produced in the past great care was taken to ensure that they were manufactured soft enough not to strip the end of the crankshaft if over-tightened.

[wildzebra]

Victor I’m a regular at Ace there’s one right by my house. Ivan that might be the case. I knew it felt tight but I was trusting the torque wrench. Then I felt it give. It threads on and tightens(not sure to what lbs) just not sure I trust that even with the washer bent.

[thrownchain]

When it let's off pressure from tightening it's slipping up over the threads. It most likely won't stay tight even with the lock washer. Get a new nut.