Clutch question

[Tether]

My Ace 100 clutch will not disengage fully. The clutch disk is new and I have 3 spacers in to get the proper free play. When the lever is pulled all the way in it lunges forward and never fully disengage.
My question is what are the causes for this?
Thanks.

[SuperRat2110]

I had similar issues for awhile. Once I changed the pinion bushing and started using type F gear lube it seemed to remedy the problem. Could also be getting hung up on the clutch cage if you didn't do the proper filing. I forget what they call it but there are instructions on how to clean up your clutch so it operates more smoothly. I'm still not sure what fixed it completely.

Blue printing is what they called dressing up the clutch. I believe its found in the resonator if it's still available.

[Tether]

I have been using 30 weight non-detergent for gear lube per the manual. Type F as in ATF?
I found the article by Ed on blue printing the clutch, printed it out and added it to my manual. I was hoping for a quick fix and not have to go through all this but I guess it’s time to pull the clutch and go through it.
I bought this motor rebuilt with the statement “just add oil and go” oh well. I have other issues also, does not want to shift into 3rd gear. Hopefully this is just a shifter adjustment.

[Al Harpster]

Type F automatic transmission fluid has often been suggested.

I've used it.

I doubt that's going to help you, but for $3 you could try it and see.

I've never had the problem you describe, but I have taken the clutch apart a couple times.

My guess: you're going to need to take the clutch apart and try to find the trouble. That blue printing article is probably a good guide.

[SuperRat2110]

The blueprinting seems like a hassle but it really isn't. I wasn't keen on doing it either but I just did the clutch on my 01 because I had the time and it's fairly easy. Just take your time.

It still wouldn't hurt to replace pinion bushing and thrust washers to eliminate them as a problem.

Hodaka's can be like a box of chocolate, you never now what you're going to get.

[Hosk1956]

I have a similar problem on my recently restored 250ED, it has been suggested that it maybe the oil viscosity, new oils not necessarily good for old bikes with wet clutch.
I am going to try some Motul 20/50 before I pull mine down.

Wayne from Oz

[Bullfrog]

Check for warped steel plates - if they are not flat, there will always be drag. Also, the original oil recommendation (30wt non-detergent) is notably "draggy" compared to oils formulated for wet motorcycle clutches. I'm partial to the BelRay clutch oil. NOTE: 30wt non-detergent MOTOR oil has about the same viscosity as 70 or 80 wt GEAR oil - so it is perfectly OK to use BelRay 80wt. (It is what I use and I'm never going back to 30wt non-detergent.)

Blue printing the clutch will make your clutch buttery smooth. Yes.
Ed

[Tether]

Thanks Ed.
I went to the BelRay web site an read up on their stuff. Makes sense to me now that I understand the difference between motor oil and gear oil. I ordered new pinion bushing and thrust washers. In the mean time I will pull the clutch apart and check the steel plates for flatness and go through the blueprinting process. I did the process to my Wombat clutch and it works very well though it is still just a little “draggy” I will try the BelRay in it.
Bob.

[SuperRat2110]

Don't be afraid to try the Type F, when I was having similar issues I did everything at once, pinion bushing, washers, type F, so it was hard to say which one really helped. I also engage the clutch when I'm warming up the bike. Give that a try also. Might help. Good luck, hope it pans out once you get the new parts and blueprinting done.

[Joe Ormonde]

The bushing will actually dig a groove into the Clutch Hub and cause your problem. It can mushroom too. When you pull the Clutch Lever in the Clutch Primary Gear should freewheel. The Bushing is longer than the Clutch Primary Gear is wide allowing it to freewheel when the Clutch Lever is pulled in. Excessive wear of the Bushing and or Clutch Hub has been a common problem for me. Gear oil that`s too thick can be a problem too. It glues together the Clutch Plates until the Gear oil heats up. If you drain the oil and fill it with Type F and it cures it, the oil was just too thick. Joe.

[taber hodaka]

The pinion bushing can only work in one direction if reversed it cannot lubricate. Over tightening the clutch can flair the bushing, torque wrench time. ----Clarence

[SuperRat2110]

Like Clarence said, pinion bushing has a correct/wrong orientation here is a link to previous thread showing, if it is wrong please correct me. download/file.php?id=919&mode=view

[Tether]

Thanks guys for all the good information. I have the new parts in hand now but the bad news is I’m going on a trip for a couple weeks so I won’t be able to get to it until I get back.
The good news is the wife and I are taking our trail bikes (me on the Wombat and the wife on a Honda XL 125) and plan to get some serious riding in.

[Joe Ormonde]

That looks correct. The open end towards the Crank and the closed loop towards the Clutch. Still. lubrication to it is substandard. My opinion. Thankfully Terry at HPI has nearly 1,700 of them and for $9.95 the price is right! Joe.

[thrownchain]

Did you straighten out the clutch issue?

[Tether]

Thrown,
No I have not been able to get to the Super Rat clutch. We were on a trip with the other bikes for about a week. Got some great rides in although I was having trouble getting my Wombat dialed in. Turns out I have one of those carburetors that are better suited as a paper weight. I have Greg Watkins getting me setup with something that will work much better.
I plan to ride the Wombat at the Bad Rock so that has been my focus for now.
I have the parts for the Rat clutch, I just need to make the time to get it done.
Also been dealing with getting my truck and trailer repaired after the accident on the trip. Dealing with insurance companies is always a challenge and add in the fact that the other company is in Canada doesn’t help.
Bob