Cabled Choke???

[viclioce]

I have what appears to be a VM20 variety carb but with a cable choke instead of the typical lever style. I can’t figure out how to release/remove the cable.

Seems like it should be a fairly simple thing, but darned if I can figure it out.

Anyone out there ever used a carb like this and know how to release the cable? Obviously, it should need to be changed occasionally for wear. Wanted to see if it could be interchanged with a std choke set up also.

Here’s a pic or 2.... Victor

[thrownchain]

Pull on the cable, the plunger should come out. May be corroded so a little lube won't hurt.

[viclioce]

It must be REALLY corroded. I can’t even move it with a screw driver! I’ll spray some PB Blaster in it and let it sit over night! Victor

[TheBevman]

Viclioce,

I've had luck with putting carbs in HOT water. I have a electric kettle in the garage specific for the purpose. Its worked great on lever chokes that are stuck as well as slides and various other things. Its also handy in temporarily softening up hardened rubber parts too.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

Bev

[viclioce]

Thanks Bev. I’ll give it a try. I wonder if just boiling water with a tea kettle and pouring it on and soaking will do it? I’ll report back & let you know! Victor

[viclioce]

Well, the hot water from the tea kettle didn’t free it up. Still as tight as it was before...... hmmmmmm..... Victor

[Bruce Young]

Victor I bet that the soaking in hot or boiling water for over 12hrs might work as suggested, pouring hot water on it does not allow water to soak into everything properly, Might help on outside rubber but this is stuck down inside a tube in carb. Soaking is better. Good Luck. takes time. Bruce

[viclioce]

Well it soaked, but only for about a couple of hours and the water cooled off. Going to try some penatrating mixtures. I’m all out of Kroil. Victor

[thrownchain]

Prop the carb up so you can fill the plunger hole with any penetrating fluid. If you have a heat gun, heat that area of the carb a few times, the expansion and contraction should allow fluid to seep down around the plunger.

[viclioce]

That’s my next plan..... Victor

[thrownchain]

Get it apart?

[viclioce]

No. I went in the Hospital yesterday to have some kidney stones Sonic blasted to break them up. 2, 5mm stones just sitting in my right kidney. Doing OK today tho. I should get back to it tomorrow. It’s not a high priority on my work list.

I did re-adjust the brake throw arms on the front & rear wheels of the Road Toad. It appears they were both just set too far forward. I repositioned them and they appear to be grabbing sooner & firmer now. Just need to get it out on the street tomorrow to fine adjust them while riding it.

I also pulled the shifter cover off the Combat Wombat. One screw was frozen & I had to pull it with my impact driver. Another had a stripped head. The 3rd was missing. And one of the screws for the inspection cover was stripped & I had to pull it with an extractor. I’ll get new Allen head screws for the inspection cover. They seem to work better than stripping out Phillips head screws. Removed the inside cover and inspected the shifter assembly. Dirty, needs cleaning & re-greasing and a new rubber gasket for the hole. But it should clean up fine.

The P.O. told me he was having issues getting it to shift into neutral. The shifter just wasn’t in place on the rod end. So the shifter was moving independently of the shift shaft. Transmission moves thru all five gears easily and I can find neutral just lightly spinning the countershaft sprocket. So it looks like the tranny is fine.

All I’ll have to do is spilt the cases, rebuild the counter shaft, install the new seals, bearings & bushings, check the kick shaft and put the bottom end back to gether (assuming there’s nothing wrong with the crank, knock on wood!). When I pull the motor out, I’ll pull the top end and see what kind of shape it’s in! Victor