bigger hammer

[philcarmell]

Trying to remove bearing retainers from frame neck. Heat, drift and hammer not braking them loose. Suggestions?

[socalhodaka]

There is not much to bite on, though the couple time I have done it was like you. I use a big drift. If your a Hodaka Club member in Issue 2-18 there is a article about this issue and the tool needed to get it done from Parktool company.

So not sure if your a club member or not? If so great, its easy to look up the info on the club website. Search the newsletter index and it would direct you to issue 2-18

If your not a member this is why you should be for a $24 fee its well worth it. But either way I going to help you out,Model RT-1 fits ID 1-1.25 inch and RT-2 fits up to 1.5 inch; about $36. Check it out at parktool.com or your local bicycle shop.

You will have to access the news letter to read the write up on the tool.
Kelly

[thrownchain]

Sometimes you have to walk the punch around the race to move it, and don't be afraid to whack it hard,if you're replacing the parts, split 'em with a chisel.

[Bullfrog]

You may already be doing this but . . . apply the heat to the steering neck (the steel of the frame), not to the bearing race. You could even use a folded wet rag (multiple layers for hand protection) to cool the bearing race - in this way, the frame steel expands more than the bearing race still and loosens the fit. Your drift MUST have a "square edge" (not rounded over) in order to NOT slip off the bearing race edge at the merest hint of hammer impact. And as thrownchain mentioned, you'll probably have to evenly whack the item out by locating the drift at north-then-south and east-then-west quadrants. Finally . . . a goodly sized hammer is a good idea.

[Bullfrog]

DOH - that should be "bearing race steel"
Ed

[matt glascock]

Also, it you have a drift you don't mind modifying, you can grind a slight bevel on the face to give it a slight edge which will more effectively engage the inner edge of the bearing race. I might have bogarted that idea from the workshop manual, but wherever it came from, it helps.

[Bullfrog]

I mentioned a slightly slanted face on the end of the drift in an article in the Resonator Revisited. The article was about removing & replacing wheel bearings. The "slant" angle is intended to compensate for the necessary angle of the drift while it is being used to drive an item out on the "far" side of a "tube". (Dang, I sure hope that is understandable.)
Ed

[hodakamax]

Amazing, out in seconds!

Maxie

[Bullfrog]

Maxie, thanks for the photo. I think that is the type of tool that socalhodaka mentioned. With the multiple "legs", the bearing race is driven out straight automatically - so operating a good size hammer is the only skill required. It is a kind of nifty special tool!

Ed

[matt glascock]

Ah, yes. You were the source for that modification, Captain. I couldn't remember where I heard about that. Thank you. Anyhoo, the same tool modification concept works just as well when removing stubborn bearing races.