Ace 100B+ Wiring

[tyjolson]

Hey guys,

I have a 1972 Ace 100B+ and am trying to figure out what the yellow, blue, green, and black wires that come out of the magneto and go to the keyed switch do. I have a wiring diagram but in the process of making a custom wiring harness since I’ve added turn signals and a new control switch on the handle bars. I believe the blue wire When grounded keeps the spark blue from firing? But not 100% positive and then have no idea what the other three do. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[rlkarren]

You should have two sets of wires coming from the magneto: one set is a black and blue that goes to the HT coil under the tank and then blue, Black, Green, and yellow from the lighting coil to the key switch.

The other set of four wires: the black is the ignition kill wire that attaches to the key switch black, the blue is ground which attaches to the key switch Blue. The yellow and green wires are hot wires carrying AC voltage to the key switch. The green wire provides power through the key switch when the switch is in position 1. This sends power to the battery, via rectifier to convert it to DC voltage, to charge the battery. The yellow wire provides AC power to the headlight and also takes over for the green wire and it's functions when the key is in position 2.

If you wanted to add lights, find a wiring diagram for the Model 94a Wombat. The wiring diagram between the Ace 100 B+ and the Model 94 Wombat is identical. The Model 94A adds the turn signal circuitry. Follow the Orange, gray and pink wires.

Hope that helps.

Roger

[tyjolson]

Thanks Roger that’s a lot of useful information! However it does bring up a couple questions...First off does the headlight have to have AC Power? I was able to make it light up both low and high beam using just a 6V battery. Then if I have a on/off switch directly on my headlight and a low/high beam on my handle bar switch could I run both the yellow and green wire through the rectifier then to the battery to charge it?

I’m thinking of replacing the stock switch I have (since the key part is broken off) with a simple keyed on/off switch. Off would ground the coil and then On would send the ac current from the green and yellow wire thru the rectifier. Then after the rectifier have one wire directly to power everything and one wire to charge the battery. Electrical stuff is not my strong suit since I’m a Mechanical Engineer so if there is something wrong with doing this let me know! I’ll try and draw up an wiring diagram later today since my set up isn’t using oem parts so it differs a bit.

[thrownchain]

Use one wire to the battery, then power everything off the battery. You'll want your switch wired in to stop current from the battery to the lights. As to the ignition you really only need a kill switch to stop the motor. Either keyed or push button.

[tyjolson]

So here’s what I got for a wiring diagram....I think this should work

[rlkarren]

Keep in mind that your lights don't care of they are powered by AC or DC voltage.

As I look at your diagram, it looks very similar to the Ace 90 diagram. with the exception of turn signals and a single position key switch. I think it would be easier to use the Ace 90 diagram, if it were me, and then adapt it as you need.

The only thing I worry about with your diagram is that everything is running off DC from the rectifier or battery. The power consumption, I am certain, is greater than the power generation via the magneto through the rectifier. The lighting coils on the magneto only put out about 18W power. Using both the yellow and green spliced together does not double the power. I don't think you are using it that way, but just wanted to make sure. If you use the 15W headlight, 1.5W taillight and then add the 1.5W brake light, your battery will never charge. If you use a higher wattage headlight, your lights will be very weak. Turn signals would be out of the question.

I think there might be a way to use the Ace 90 wiring diagram and use the AC circuit to power the extra power requirements, i.e., turn signals, AND the headlights both. Since the Ace 90 has a Yellow wire that is always on, (AC), it might work and I think the AC circuit would certainly be able to power a couple .5W turn signal bulbs. If you go this route a Voltage regulator would be a necessity.

Long story short, I think the Ace 90 diagram will meet your needs with little adjustment.

$0.02

Roger

[tyjolson]

The wiring diagram I made probably looks simular to an Ace 90 because I was basising it off of an Ace 100 B+ haha. I agree with what you said 100% but only problem I have is the brake light/turn signals are LED and must be run off of DC. I think the one improvement I could make is instead of combining the yellow and green wire from the magneto (which was just to keep from having a loose wire) I could just run the yellow wire to the on/off switch of the headlight thus supplying it with AC power and run everything else off of the green wire and DC power. What are your opinions on this Roger?

[rlkarren]

that's exactly what the Ace90 does. I thought maybe you had a copy or I would have attached it earlier.

The only thing missing on this diagram is the key switch positions. I had it and posted it before but if I remember right:
For each position:

• 0 (or off): IG => Earth)

• 1: Earth => Bat

• 2: Earth => Bat and C2 => HL.

So if you connect C2 and HL directly and then use the key switch to act as a kill switch, I think you'll have your diagram, minus turn signals.

For everyone and for what it's worth: the Ace 90 diagram is the basis for ALL Hodaka wiring diagrams. Each evolution of the Hodaka Motorcycle built on this diagram. If you can spend the time to really understand this diagram, you will find the later models aren't so daunting.

$0.02

Roger