Hello from a new ACE 100 Owner!

[hodakahunter]

Just wanted to say hello from sunny Florida! Just picked up my first Hodaka yesterday (Ace 100) and looking forward to learning more about these marvelous machines. Plans might include racing within AHRMA in flat track, CC, or VMX so would be interested in pursuing some performance hop-ups that are common for these applications. Will post photos and more specifics on the purchase later on.

Thanks in advance! From the looks of this forum, I'll never be short on advice or opinion!


--Hunter

[viclioce]

Welcome aboard, from Santa Fe, NM! Victor

[Bruce Young]

Hodaka Hunter, welcome aboard, I would recommend that first find the eng. and frame number info, then go to this web site for all kinds of information, manuals, and biggest Hodaka parts supplier in the USA Hodaka-parts inc, Missouri, Terry Larson 1--314--313--5635 They are the best. Get the manual, and read it. Then when you start of list of items, you can look up parts numbers and etc. Please take your time and give the bike a great new home, and you will have tons of riding pleasure. Next when you start removing parts for clean up, repair, or replacement at first don,t throw anything away and make and bag each item. Never know when or where you might find some of the little items that are hard to find. Good luck and last but now least think about join the Hodaka Clubs, best $24.00 you will spend, you can see their site on the web. Bruce Young hodakapartsidaho.com

[hodakahunter]

Thanks Victor and Bruce for the welcome! Joined today! Was browsing the information on there earlier. It’s great that there is such a passionate following of these machines!

Into the numbers:
Frame: A44001
Engine: P44087

First repair to make to get it rideable (cranks now) is rebuild the carb (leaks like a sieve) and replace the broken shift spring. Considering a complete rebuild of the motor at some point. Will need guidance on how far I should go, ie just rings, pistons, and a hone, or split crank and replace rods, bearings, etc. No idea on the mileage since it has been stripped down and no tripmeter.

[thrownchain]

New seals would be good, old ones get hard and don't seal after time. Bearings wouldn't hurt either. Fresh rings as long as the bore/ cylinder clearances are in spec. If it's coming apart do it right.

[thrownchain]

And the numbers make it an Ace 100 B, 1970 vintage. Model 92B.

[viclioce]

When opening the tranny don’t be afraid! There’s not much to them. No springs going BOING! And while it’s open do all of it. Seals, Bearings & bushings. Order the parts from Terry at Hodaka-parts.com. And be careful with the case screws. The heads are soft & easily stripped out. Use a screwdriver not a drill! Victor

[Joe Ormonde]

The first thing you need to know about your bike is that the Blue Coil Wire is Ground and the Black is Positive. Get a Repair Manual. It will make life a lot easier. When I took Auto shop, Black was ALWAYS Ground EXCEPT for Positive Ground 6Volt Tractors. Hodaka Motorcycles should have been included in that statement!!! Joe Ormonde.

[Bullfrog]

Some additional information regarding the case screws . . . make sure you use a #3 Phillips screwdriver (in good condition) on the case screws. Grampa's hand-me-down #2 Phillips screwdriver will not do. No.

Last time I looked, you could purchase a new Craftsman #3 Phillips screwdriver for under $10. Get one. Yes.

Ed

[Joe Ormonde]

And a Flywheel Puller! Joe.

[matt glascock]

And I will expound on Bruce's advice. When he said "get the manual", he was referring to the Official Hodaka Workshop Manual. Make sure to get the edition covering models Ace 90, Ace 100, Ace 100B, Ace 100 B+, and Ace 100 MX Super Rat. Once in hand, you'll soon realize that the most useful tool in your kit is made of paper.

[Joe Ormonde]

That`s a fact! Joe.

[hodakahunter]

Wow! Thanks everyone for the priceless advice. I feel like I’ve just skipped the first year of hard knock learning on this thing.

So regarding the rebuild, is rebuilding a crank something Joe Schmoe with a press can do? It looks like seal kits are readily available which is good!

What are the best rear shocks to put on these? I’ve used Hagon on my CB350 racer with great results. Mine creak like bed springs.

Is there any chart/article/document that covers the compatibility of parts between years and models? Ie can I put a super rat ported piston and reeds on an ACE as an example.

What’s the best source for a manual? Is it true that later manuals collect the previous models in them, so a Super Rat manual would include the service procedures for an Ace?

Thanks again everyone! On the Topic of Phillips, I’ve grown accustomed to used an impact driver on case bolts to prevent shredding them, as well as a JIC Phillips which is pretty much an American phillips with a flattened tip. Is this the case with Hodaka fasteners?

Is there a modification to make the motor kickable in any gear with the clutch engaged?

Thanks a TON!

—Hunter

[matt glascock]

Welcome aboard Hunter! Its really awesome seeing young folks getting involved with these insanely cool bikes! I'll give your questions a go. I get my cranks rebuilt by Hodaka Dave Rozier (Hodaka Dave's Vintage Service). He has the gear and know how and has built cranks for me that I torture the crap out of with no failures ever. Total engine overhaul kits are available through Hodaka_Parts at very reasonable prices. Right about now would be a good time to consider what direction you want to take the bike. Runabout, trail bike, Marty Tripes 100 cc Works Revenge screamin' demon, trials bike, flat tracker? The sky's the limit. Progressive makes good all-around shocks at a good price. WP's are a bit better in my opinion for MX work. The Hodaka Club website has a very detailes parts compatability/interchangeability chart available for members. You can certainly add reed induction but you'll need to port the cylinder and drill the piston, score a reed block and upsize the carb. Again, Hodaka Dave does my port work on both my piston port and reed induction race motors. They rip. Rich Taylor (Racerclam on here) has done some legendary port work as well. Remember, if you go to reed induction and want to race, you can't race in the classic class so if you like hanging with the 12,000+ RPM club, that may be the thing for you. Hodaka published three official workshop manuals. The first covered Ace 90, the updated edition covered Ace 90 through Ace 100 MX Super Rat (that's the one you want), and lastly the Wombats and Combat Wombat (M94, 94a and 95). I'm not sure if Terry Larson has the manuals listed for sale on the Hodaka_Parts website yet but its worth checking. They also show up regularly on fleabay. Remember, these are actual books not to be confused with the owner's manual written for the consumer and distributed at the time of original sale of the motorcycle. They are comprehensive shop manuals for techs. JIC Phillips are great for case screw installation but you are wise to use an impact driver for removal. To my knowledge, there is no way to modify your motor for primary kick starting (kicking the bike in gear with the clutch DISENGAGED - remember, pulling in the clutch lever disengages the clutch). That feature was not introduced until the painted tank models came out in 1975 or so. Maybe one of the pros can confirm that last part about modding for primary kickstarting. Any way you go, you are in for a heck of a lot of fun. Welcome to the asylum!!

[Bruce Young]

Hodakahunter, see I told you, you will get a lifetime of advice from those that are considered Hodaka people whom have worked on these machines for many years. Good advice by all, but please go slowly, I know you want to do everything at once, but do step by step, process. I might suggest the eng. first and please for the first time, use an expert engine builder as suggested, in the end it will save you a lot of money and headaches. As the eng. is being done then you can go into the carb and ign system and get that ready to put things back together, shocks and forks and etc can be next, take your time to consider all suggestions, and remember to do it right the first time, spend a little money and get it done right. Good luck with project and keep Hodakan!! Bruce

[dirty_rat]

The easiest and cheapest way to convert to a primary kick (kick in gear) engine is to buy a late model Dirt Squirt or Road Toad engine that is already set up from the factory that way. To convert an Ace 100 engine (if possible) would cost more in parts and labor than buying one of the other engines. An added benefit would be the aluminum cylinder, factory reed valve and upgraded porting.

[hodakahunter]

Thanks again for all of the advice!

Would anyone have suggestions/advice for the direction I should go given I will be starting with a 92B that is already stripped of it's roadworthy components? Is the Ace more particularly suited for VMX, over CC, over Flattrack given my size (5' 11" / 165lbs)?

The bike is missing the VIN plate on the steering neck as well so titling may be a bear. Is it possible to recover or replace that given the frame number?

What are the performance ranges that can be achieved on this platform when say comparing a stock restoration, versus a "Marty Tripes 100 cc Works Revenge screamin' demon" for example. Assuming reliability is lost as well when pushing the envelope for a hot build. Would be nice to have a good'ole reliable dirt bike that can be tracked and also taken out for fun without the worry that some maxed out part is always on the verge of failure. Just got out of this with my CB350 which I've rebuilt the head on several times this season trying to get a reliable head gasket seal with my high compression setup. REALLY looking forward to some easy 2T maintenance!

Is the guide that was referenced for parts compatibility between models within the Resonator articles, or is there a separate tech section that I have missed on the website?

I'll begin removing and tearing down the motor this week and start getting parts through my kerosene washer to inspect for condition.

Looks like first things to purchase will be:
1. Workshop Manual
2. Level 2 rebuild kit from hodaka-parts.com which looks to include the broken shift spring among many other nice to replace seals and fasteners
3. Carb rebuild kit

The adventure begins!

[thrownchain]

Level 2 kit does not include the spring, what the diagram is pointing to is the kick shaft O ring. Best to ask when you place the order.

[hodakahunter]

That would have been a disappointment!

So I guess this is an inaccurate description on the website:

This includes all seals, O rings, bearings, bushings, gaskets, shifter springs and case screws.

Will wait then to complete the tear down as there will likely be some other things to replace. Thanks

[thrownchain]

Shifter springs refers to the springs inside the counter shaft. Find the schematic and expand it to see the break down.

[hodakahunter]

LEARNING!!!!

[thrownchain]

You'll get there. After a while it'll be second nature.

[hodakahunter]

Thanks thrownchain! Dug deeper into the schematic and found the part I'm looking for is the 9-20 Foot Change Ratchet Spring. I know it's an old part, but is this something I should try to find as NOS, because old ones are routinely fatigued and prone to breakage? By the way, I abosolutely love the modular design of the shifter actuator housing! There are so many good ideas built into these motors!

Found the compatibility spread sheet and model change documentation at hodakapartsidaho.com. Amazing that this much documentation is out there. I thought my '71 CB350 was well documented, but this is insane!

[viclioce]

With a little hard work, and a lot of discussion on this forum, you can turn an Ace 100 from a pile of parts to a roaring, breathing machine again! Victor

[hodakahunter]

She's beautiful Victor, and I'm sure sounds even lovlier!