Clutch issue?

[tahoethumper]

Finally got the shifting mechanism working properly (using the added o-ring trick) and fired off my freshly rebuilt motor yesterday. Runs superb! Shut it down and figured I would test ride the bike today. While still on my lift, I went to test the clutch operation by pulling the lever in while it was in gear (engine not running, of course), and found that the rear wheel would not spin/freewheel. I tried this in all gears and found the wheel wouldn’t turn while in gear with the clutch disengaged. I thought my clutch pack specs were on point, as well as having the 3/32” throw at the cable lever on the motor, and 1/4” play at the handlebar lever. I’m using the correct oil type and amount too, and have lubed the clutch cable. Any suggestions as to where to go next? I really just want to get the machine operational in order to sell soon. Thanks!

[matt glascock]

No free wheeling with the bike in gear and the clutch disengaged you say? That's ok. You won't. Constant mesh gears in that there transmission. The only place where you will get free wheeling is in neutral. Incidentally, you need to find neutral to start the bike as well (unless we are talking about a painted tank model with primary kick starting). Now go out there and take that bad boy for a spin.

[Bullfrog]

What does the clutch lever feel like when you pull it in? Do you get full movement of the handlebar lever? Does the clutch lever "feel" like you expected it to? Was the clutch rebuilt at the same time as the rest of the engine? New clutch bushing? Proper torque on the clutch nut?
Ed

[tahoethumper]

Thanks for the replies. Matt, that totally made sense. Was thinking in more “modern bike” terms.

Ed, yes to all of that except for a new clutch bushing.

I took it on a little ride around the neighborhood and it was a blast. Still some shift issues, but hopefully I can sort that out. I tried to post a video of the maiden voyage but was unable to. I’ve posted pics before, but are vids from an iPhone not possible? Thanks again guys.

[matt glascock]

I prefer the "trial and error" method of clutch adjustment. There are several clutch adjustment threads on this forum describing it in detail, but the best description is in the Official Hodaka Workshop Manual. Another method is also described using measurements from the inside of the case to the shifter arm etc. etc. but I was never worth a crap at that method.

[matt glascock]

Just type in "trial and error method" into the forum's search window and - presto - many postings on clutch adjusting await.

[Bullfrog]

Tahoe, did the clutch work for you on the short ride? Matt - trial-and-error method of clutch adjustment?
Ed

[matt glascock]

AAAAAARRRRRG!!! Sorry Captain!! That should read "trial and error method" of SHIFTER adjustment. One does NOT want to try my patented trial and error method of clutch adjustment (hint - Dremel involved) . I think its night night time for Matty. In defense of my addlemindedness, I just rebuilt the clutch for the upcoming season on my toaster Super Rat, so I have "clutch brain".

[Bullfrog]

What is the main symptom of "clutch brain"? Slipping? Or grabbing? (Geez, I entertain myself sooooo easily!)
Ed

[tahoethumper]

Tahoe, did the clutch work for you on the short ride? Matt - trial-and-error method of clutch adjustment?
Ed

Yes Ed, it did! But I still do have a slight shift issue. I already went through the shift mechanism measurement process, along with the trial and error method, and finally ended up using the temporary o-ring fix (wasn’t able to shift from fifth to fourth originally). I’m gonna try and post my videos on YouTube, as I’m unable to post them as attachments here. I’m pretty sure the whole shift assembly (not transmission) needs rebuilt.

[tahoethumper]

Here are some vids of my first time riding my Frankendaka since I got it four years ago in boxes, completely disassembled and in pieces. It’s taken me awhile to get it going because I work at Ducati and most of my life is consumed working on everyone else’s bikes besides my own. And honestly, I just don’t have the money to restore bikes quickly, so there’s a lot of DIY components on the bike. I really appreciate the advice I’ve received here on this forum throughout the years- ya’ll are top notch. Thanks.

https://youtu.be/DZTbpYp6evA

https://youtu.be/o05ZhrxK_9k

https://youtu.be/4UJ0JzN4IAA

[matt glascock]

Apparently all slipping - all the time, Captain.

Tahoe, the shift mechanisms in the usual "found state" are typically hammered. The control shaft springs are flattened, the ball receiver is dented and the groove is flattened out, and the shift cover bore is shaped like an egg. All of mine have been anyway. A soup-to-nuts-and-bolts rebuild is in order most likely.

[Bullfrog]

Just call me Mom, "Where is your helmet young man?!!!"

If you grab the end of the foot change shaft (the shift lever attaches to it) and try to wiggle it around, I'll bet you'll see freeplay (slop) you could measure with a ruler. If so, it is time for a shift cover rebuild.
Ed
PS: Did I inquire about the where-abouts of your helmet? Tsk, tsk.

[Bullfrog]

PPS: Nifty scooter!!!

[tahoethumper]

Just call me Mom, "Where is your helmet young man?!!!"

If you grab the end of the foot change shaft (the shift lever attaches to it) and try to wiggle it around, I'll bet you'll see freeplay (slop) you could measure with a ruler. If so, it is time for a shift cover rebuild.
Ed
PS: Did I inquire about the where-abouts of your helmet? Tsk, tsk.

Ed, you’re absolutely right- should’ve had a helmet on. No excuses there.
Now when I go to measure the slop at the end of the foot change shaft, should it be by itself, or still notched into the shift lever? I never noticed any bend or excessive play out of the control shaft, nor did I see any collapsed springs within it during assembly. The shift shaft bore through the cover is tight, with just enough clearance for grease. When you rebuild the shift shaft cover, do you replace the control shaft as well?? I will still take some measurements though. Also, I have a couple other magneto covers with their shift assemblies in them (one is for an Ace 100 where the plunger on the opposite side, and the other is an Ace 90, which I won’t install in this case), so maybe I’ll try another cover and mechanism, and see if that produces good results. It is also in good shape too, and the shift shaft bore is still round and showing no signs of cracks.

[Bullfrog]

I don't have a freeplay measurement for you on the footchange shaft in the bore, but that is OK, cuz I'm pretty sure that since you work on Ducs . . . you know what excessive freeplay ("slop") is. Actually, it sounds like your foot change shaft is not excessively loose in the bore, but you do have the "sticks in 5th gear" symptom - so there is excessive wear somewhere in shift cover mechanism. A prime place to inspect would be the condition of the "ball" on the shifter arm/guide & the "faces" it contacts on the foot change ratchet. Wear of those two components has been the suspected cause of "sticks in 5th" syndrome on other machines.