Re: Super Rat motor onto Dirt Squirt?

RylanCoffey · Post by **RylanCoffey** » Tue Apr 17, 2018 9:29 am

Ok here is an update on front wheel. Should I put back on or should I go ahead and replace bearings /ball joints?

olddogs · Post by **olddogs** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:49 am

Well you sure have a project on your hands. I think everyone is impressed that someone of your generation is trying to bring a bike that has obviously been neglected back to life. That said, the front hub looks like it would be gamble to re-use. This hub and its bearings hold up the whole front of the bike. There is a great load on this axle when you hit a bump or turn the wheel in dirt or mud. The danger of the front wheel locking up while riding can cause serious injury. Some of the web that gives its strength is corroded away. Same with the aluminum that supports the bearings. It is likely to crumble or break if you try and remove the bearings. This front wheel and hub are not rare parts and many models will fit. It makes more sense to find a replacement. If we knew what city and state you live in, some member may be able to help you out with parts or give your project a look over and let you know what other areas may need attention to finish and make it safe. Hodaka people are always looking to help other Hodaka owners.

viclioce · Post by **viclioce** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 11:54 am

I second what Olddogs has stated. Better off to find a different wheel or hub. That hub could cause a dangerous failure. Bruce Young, Hodakaparts.com, Terry at Hodaka-parts.com and Paul ay strictlyhodaka.com are all good possibilities. Paul is going on vacation in the immediate future. So maybe try Bruce or Terry if you want to move on it right away. And of course, there’s always eBay if none of those pan out. I’m guessing Bruce should have a good supply!

Victor

BrianZ · Post by **BrianZ** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 1:21 pm

I'm going to disagree. I have dealt with that white powdery corrosion before and it was superficial. In this case you need to do a lot better job at cleaning it up, especially the braking surface. Use a wire wheel on a drill or steel wool (or both). One you have it good an clean post another picture.

I almost always replace the bearings. They are a standard size and can be found in stock at most bearing supply shops. Heat the hub up a bit before pressing out the bearings make the job a lot easier, and you won't gall the aluminum hub.

Brian

Bullfrog · Post by **Bullfrog** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 2:18 pm

I'm with BrianZ, I don't see anything to suggest any kind of structural problem (I don't believe there are any missing webs) . . . of course there is considerable more cleaning to be done before you know the true condition of the interior of the hub. With the information the photo provides, I'd keep cleaning with a plan to use it if it were my bike.

I would almost certainly replace the bearings. They are pretty low cost . . . and replacement is just wayeeee easier than removing/cleaning/greasing/replacing the existing bearings . . . and you have new bearings when you get done.
Ed

RylanCoffey · Post by **RylanCoffey** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 2:42 pm

Thank you guys very much ! I live in High point North Carolina near Greensboro. If anyone is in N.C. nearby I'd love to chat and get some extra help call me 336 491 9010

MTrat · Post by **MTrat** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 2:53 pm

I know Ed thinks I'm kinda overly thrifty but I agree with the belief that this hub can be salvaged with some care and elbow grease, plus new bearings. What I can see of the spokes look good also.

olddogs · Post by **olddogs** » Thu Apr 19, 2018 1:27 am

I believe we need to look at the situation when we offer advice. There will be close to $50 in bearings and seals. These are some of the most difficult bearings to replace on the whole bike, if you can even get them out considering condition of the hub. We did not get a look at the brake backing plate. My guess is its as bad or worse than the hub. Even if the brake shaft pivot still turns (which would be a miracle) or if the brake plate isn't as corroded, this needs to be addressed. Who with experience is going to verify the safety of these parts. If it were the rear wheel, trial and error will work. With a front wheel???

We have an owner with great determination and limited mechanical skills. I assume this from the reference to ball joints and garden tractors. I have conical hubs laying around, but would never offer one as this leads to needing the skill level to re-spoke a wheel. When you consider the whole project, its a young owner trying to get an old bike running. Things that stop progress for long periods, or take the fun out of it can lead to those unfinished projects that fill sheds and storage units.

givergas · Post by **givergas** » Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:56 am

hi rylan glad your taking on this project gives me hope for the future. im putting in my 2 cents but you should put it on the bottom of the list because there are a lot of people here that actually know what they are talking about. im got hold of a hodaka that sat out side for about 15 years, the front tire /hub/ was in a mess also. i took the spokes off cleaned the rim up took the spokes soaked them in vinegar over night cleaned them up with a brass brush made sure the treads were cleaned up and screwed on to the spokes and soaked them in marvel mystery oil and wiped cleaned, cleaned up the hub till it was real clean took out the seals and bearings cleaned them up got new seals put the old bearings back in as they looked good and felt smooth when cleaned up. new brake shoes cause the old ones fell apart , with u tube and the manual it wasnt that hard to figure out how to re spoke the rim to hub. ok that said i wanted to get my bike back out and running as i can see these bikes are in a state of not repair but more, the fun is in monkeying around with them. its not a cruiser doing 70 down the highway, replace the maintenance parts get it running when you get it going down the street and the front tire starts wobbling with all the new experience you will have by getting this bike running replacing the front hub if it needs it will be a piece of cake. good job keeper going remember bottom of the list ....albertalbert

RylanCoffey · Post by **RylanCoffey** » Sat Apr 21, 2018 6:25 pm

Can I take the terminals off my dirt squirt motor and replace my super rat terminals so it will match my coil?

olddogs · Post by **olddogs** » Sun Apr 22, 2018 1:30 am

Yup. Just match the colors. Make sure your splices are taped and not touching each other. One of the wires is the hot wire. It will not have power until the engine is kicked over and the spin of the flywheel generates an electrical charge, which the points time, and send to the coil. This is the wire you need to attach/splice your kill button or switch to. Remember you need a way to stop the engine once it starts. The kill button just grounds this circuit

RylanCoffey · Post by **RylanCoffey** » Sun Apr 22, 2018 7:36 am

Why won't my clutch cable fit????? And what is the cable in the second picture that's smaller for ?

Post by **Dale** » Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:59 am

Some models use a 6mm cable thread at the clutch arm while others use 8mm. I'm guessing that your 01 Dirt Squirt had 8mm but the 93 Super Rat motor would be 6mm.

olddogs · Post by **olddogs** » Sun Apr 22, 2018 12:22 pm

The Super Rat used a single throttle cable that went to the carb from the twist grip. The red tank Dirt Squirt had 2 throttle cables. One went to the carb and the second cable went to the oil injection pump. This may be the other cable you mention. This oil injection cable will not be needed to run your super rat engine as you will need to run pre mixed gas and oil now.

You will need a Super Rat or Ace 100 clutch cable. The dirt squirt clutch cable will not work.

RylanCoffey · Post by **RylanCoffey** » Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:39 pm

Thank you!!

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