About to be Hodaka Wombat owner

[Farkle1]

Hi all, just joined up as I will be picking up a 1972 Wombat two days from today. Have some basic questions..
How can I tell if it is a "94" or a 94A" ?
I assume it requires premix, what ratio do they like?
Approx range with stock tank ridden on road?
Really appreciate any help....

[matt glascock]

Hi and welcome. There are a few differences between the M94 and M94a Wombats. I can't think of them all right off the bat, but here's a few. M94 built in 1972. Ace style pipe, VM2400 carb (originally designed for 4-strokes, mine has been changed. Original difficult to jet properly. Ace-style rectangular mirror. Black gas cap. Grey cables. Ace-style "tear drop" tail light. Brass petcocks. M94a built in '73. Addition of turn signals and associated switch and dash indicator lamp, black cables, white gas cap, newer style high pipe without the "flame thrower" end, round mirror, carburetor upgrade, pot metal petcocks, and rectangular taillight lens. Mileage depends on how you ride, but I'd say I get probable around 50 miles to the gallon on 93 octane (NONETHANOL!!) pump gas mixed 32:1 with Yamalube 2R two-stroke oil. There is no oil injection on the Wombat. You have to run premix. They're great bikes and are an absolute blast to ride.

[Farkle1]

thanks! looking at pics it is a 94 then.. What is the best carb to switch to? As it has been sitting for ten years I don't want to waste half a day cleaning out a carb that I'm just going to replace anyhow...

[matt glascock]

I believe the M94B ran the Mikuni VM2400B so that would be what you would want to switch to. That change may have already taken place on your bike. If it was running well, it would be worth the time to give your carb a thorough cleaning and try it. Nothing lost, and it may have been either changed or dialed in by the previous owner. I would wait for suggestions from someone on this forum much more knowledgeable than me - there are many - to weigh in on the subject before purchasing a new carb. The one you have might just be fine.

[Bullfrog]

Here is a photo to help you identify which carb you have.

Ed

[Bruce Young]

Ed did you do the same sort of Carb. Id program for any other Hodaka Carbs, 22, 26,, 28 so the Hodaka world can do the same sort of ID on what carb they might have or find. Would be nice to see all the carbs shown on one page with the proper way to ID them. Bruce lots of newbies out there with questions.

[Bullfrog]

Sorry Bruce. I don't have all the various Hodaka carbs on hand for photography . . .
Ed

[Makotosun]

Interesting side note, for sourcing carbs that is, then early Yamaha AT1 (125) and CT1(175) used the VM24SH carbs. At least the 69-71 (piston port models). The 72 and later used a slightly different version of the VM24SH Theft was slightly thinner from intake to outlet to accommodate the reed cage on those models.

Unfortunately I don’t have the final two digits of the Yamaha carbs, so I can’t say if they are one or the other of the above. Given how well my AT1 and CT1 models friends of mine own, they are likely the latter.

The take away is that you can use many of the rebuild parts and kits for The Yamahas on your Wombats. I even have a carb kit that specifically lists the Hodaka Wombat as well as the AT1/CT1 as the bike it fits! If you are looking for a carb for your bike, you may want to expand your search!

[Darrell]

Is this a Canadian Wombat? I see the flag of Canada on the front fender, eh.

[Farkle1]

Yes sir, believe bought new by the gentleman I am getting it from. Not sure where but he lived in Kamloops area.

[dirty_rat]

Not all of the Model 94 Wombats had the questionable carb. They changes carbs during the production run, so the only way to tell if yours has the good one or the bad one is to compare it to the pictures that Ed posted.

[dirty_rat]

And just in case you were wondering as to what to look for, look at the brass spray bar that sticks up at the bottom of the carbs venturi. The bad one doesn't really stick up, while the good one sticks up approx. 1/4 ".