The 2 the Max Project

[Bullfrog]

Hmm, I responded a few minutes ago - but it disappeared into the "ethers"! (I'm mentioning that in case it suddenly appears, and then I'll have two responses!)

Ennneywayeeee, actually, the steering head balls are "captured" in a "no free-play" environment - at least that is the case when the steering head bearing is properly adjusted. So the balls are side-by-side and only "skedaddle" when the handle bars are turned.

Imagine a straight section of gnarbly trail - let's say its New England granite (nasty) bumpies. There will be "impact" loads between the balls and races repeatedly . . . and pretty much in the same place. Now imagine all that happening with the steering head bearings a little loose. The steering head angle would assure that only a couple of balls on the top back and the bottom front were taking almost all the loads. That will lead to some semi-microscopic "dents" in the races. Continue riding like that for a while (weeks, months . . . years?) and the balls will start "registering" into the dents and neighboring balls will be brought into the impact load "denting" - all in a regular/symmetric/consistent pattern. Before long, the bearing races will look like the one in Maxie's photo. Hydraulic noticed and commented on it . . . and I'd bet Maxie just wasn't worrying about or commenting on the detail of an easily replaceable part just yet.

If you have your machine blocked up with the front wheel off the ground, and you turn the bars . . . is there any hint of "detenting"? If so, it's time for some maintenance.
Ed

[matt glascock]

Great information, Captain. The way you've explained it makes perfect sense to me. Thanks so much. I'm on it! I love this forum!!

[hodakamax]

What would account for the symmetry and consistency of the ball bearing indentations seen on the race other than an epic impact? I thought they were free to skedaddle around the race at will.

Hey Matt, It's probably where a truck ran over it I'm beginning to think. I'd been better off with a different frame but I did want to preserve the historical part of this machine. Persistence. That is a strange imprint! Only one of many mysteries on this specimen.

Maxie

[matt glascock]

I really respect that Max. My gem of an Ace 100 spent decades entangled in a mesh of wrecked farm implements behind a barn in North Dakota exposed to the elements and was literally a heap of rusted scrap metal before I got a hold of it and now it is a fully functional and beautifully running example of a classic motorcycle from the 60's. Trust me, I'm an enthusiastic participant and endorser of all things pertaining to preservation and restoration of these terrific machines and have the utmost respect for folks who feel the same. I still marvel at the outcome of the Day One Project and the glorious second lease on life you gave what, for all intents and purposes, was to the untrained eye a useless pile of scrap metal. I will continue to enjoy following along as you keep up the great work, and learn a lot along the way. Here's to a very Merry Christmas to you and yours Maxie!

[hodakamax]

Hey Matt, Thanks for your comments! In reality, as my wife says, It keeps Max entertained. There probably wasn't a chance in a million that the tired old $65 Hodaka from the farm sale would move on to an afterlife. Too grim for me even. I did see some interesting salvage parts, What for? I had no idea.

The more I looked, the picture started forming in my brain of this thing in combat one-half century ago and with me! While dreaming I could hear the noises and smell the dirt, seriously! This thing needed a different direction than demise and dust to dust norms of man. This will also back-up my theory that Hodakas were designed to be modified at least in the Vintage realm they occupied at the time. More Hodaka philosophy!

As always, thanks for humoring me and my projects and sharing your philosophy on all things shared and otherwise. You are a good participant!

Best Holiday wishes from Eweleen and I to you and others in your life---- Ho,ho,ho. (Gotta get the Pagan side in all of this!)

[hodakamax]

Funny, when I took this thing apart it was just one of the many things that got my comment "Yikes! I've never seen this one before." It's as if the machine was a testbed for failure scenarios. At first I thought the dimples were a product of impact as almost every area of the bike was impacted by external and human sources. Too many to list on this page.

I did get out the magnifier as interest was shown. I think it falls under no lubrication and zero maintenance. The dimples lead up the side walls which I hadn't noticed or even seen before. Dry and really loose.

I've given up on all the reasons and am trying to focus on repair. These things are hidden everywhere. Most of the factory welds are "reinforced" with what appears to be a stick welder of sorts. Most all of the welding modifications exhibit cracking and failure. Hmm, I've not seen that one before either. Most of the entire frame or at least the places in question will have to be rewelded.

Ah, part of the project, I will prevail! If it wasn't for the history this frame would have been scrapped by me.

A report!

Maxie

[matt glascock]

How wonderful to chance encounter a touchstone from the past and resurrect it to a point far beyond its storied past. Terrific Maxie! I take a somewhat metaphysical view and assign these forgotten relics a soul in need of salvation. I save them and they save me. Then I race them and they beat me to pieces and I'm 16 again:). One quick tech question. I'm working on a 94 frame and the races are completely fused in the steering head with rust and heaven knows what else. I've tried heat, penetrating oil, both, etc. and have whanged away with a drift with nary a budge. I'm thinking of how to use a friend's press but then wondering how much more pressure I could get with a press above what I'm currently getting with a drift and a two pound drilling hammer. Do you have any suggestions short of cutting off the steering head and welding on a replacement? Thanks MAxie!

[hodakamax]

Hey Matt, These things work. Heat and penetrant help on a stubborn one. Somewhere back in the Resonator I did a demo on one. Park tool.com. 1''-1.25" Really for bicycle heads but works great!

Maxie

Ah, Resonator Vol. 2 #18

[matt glascock]

Hey Maxie, that's pretty slick. Applying force about the circumference of the race should turn the trick. Do the leaflets have enough flexibility to, as seen in your image, pass through the upper race by grip strength alone or do you have to collapse them with say a hose clamp? Great suggestion Maxie. Thank you!!

[taber hodaka]

We extended our Ace 90- front ends in the day. ------------Clarence

[hodakamax]

Hey Maxie, that's pretty slick. Applying force about the circumference of the race should turn the trick. Do the leaflets have enough flexibility to, as seen in your image, pass through the upper race by grip strength alone or do you have to collapse them with say a hose clamp? Great suggestion Maxie. Thank you!!

Piece of cake. Insert the nose and push it in. Grab the nose on the other and pull until you hear a satisfying click as the fingers snap behind the race. Knock it out, the tool pulls or flys out with the race. Turn it around, repeat. Two minutes max, so to speak!

Maxie

[matt glascock]

What did that modification get you Clarence? I understand the rationale for extending the swinging arm but am a bit unclear on what the advantage of extending the front end like you've shown would be other that perhaps a more aggressive attack position. The new steering head looks like you've preserved the stock rake and trail.

[matt glascock]

AHA (and DUH?!? ). Thanks Maxie!

[hodakamax]

We extended our Ace 90- front ends in the day. ------------Clarence
DSCN1716.JPG

Clarence, question. Did that create a shortage of frames in the area as it took two to make one?

Next question: What did it do? I lengthened the other swing arm end to slow down the handling as they were a little short with a giant horsepower addition. Did lengthening the front help the situation?

Maxie

[hodakamax]

AHA (and DUH?!? ). Thanks Maxie!

Funny. It took me awhile to stop attempting to put the tool in backwards!

[matt glascock]

You just saved me a heart attack from trying to do the same .

[hodakamax]

The project frame has been hanging belly-up in the shop the last couple of days as I try to figure out some fork stops before blasting and welding repairs. I don't just pull inventions out of the ethers but instead hang the bike on the path to my office. This refreshes my mind several times a day on the problem to be solved. You would not want to hire me by the hour even at a low rate. Construction speed is not one of my virtues. I'm not a welder but have access to one. It's several miles to him and somewhat of a hassle to gather things up and work around everyones timing. What I'm working up to is that a fastener option is always open to me first.

Bolt on fork stops are easily, well, bolted on which makes them more versatile. I'm still eyeing my cute baby Ceriani forks which have different stops and later could be adapted to the project without sawing off todays idea. While procrastinating I consider making the stops adjustable which would be innovative and cool but after a couple of hours of study and moving things around never could get that to work to my or anyone else's satisfaction. Overkill.

Ok. Bolt-ons are adjustable, you just have to un-bolt and have optional parts. See why you wouldn't want to hire me the hour even at minimum wage? On with it.

Not much room here for additional fasteners and big fingers I find out. Also the only place to put the stop studs was to countersink them in the needed spacer. This brings up the question of do we have enough strength here? Well, as fork stops all seems well and solid but maybe insufficient for a thrashing endo. We'll try to not to do that.

Ah, I'm somewhat pleased with the end result. They do meet the requirements of semi-adjustable fork stops and the theme of mechanical complication and I got several hours of entertainment which is mostly what the project is about. I even got to tell the story and show pictures to my friends which is equally fun. Life is good!

Maxie

[Bill2001]

How spiffy.

[hodakamax]

A different direction for a moment or two. I'm slowly gathering engine pieces and contemplating a plan for the projects engine(s). The preliminary plan is to build a near duplicate of the successful 100cc engines we raced in the '60s and see how fast we can make it go. The combo at the time was with this reed block and a 32mm Amal concentric carb. The original reed block is on the Day One project which is being converted to an angled GEM manifold.

I've found the new version 32mm Amal concentric but it lists the application as 4-stroke. Niche Cycle Supply, a good place to buy new carbs, and has the carb in-stock, quickly answered my E-mail question about such. For a 2-stroke application they recommend a primary type 622/079 series needle jet to replace the bleed type jet. Unfortunately the parts are on back order.

All of this is just a report and I'll have to admit I haven't ran any fuel through an Amal for nearly 50 years. I do have the original bike but its in a really awkward place to get to. Maybe it has what I need but I need to stay off of ladders for a few more weeks.

Do any of the old crowd have any input, suggestions or Amal parts? Thanks Gang!

Maxie

[hodakamax]

The plot thickens! I see racerclam was the first to view this post. Advice on the way soon I'll bet!--- Oops, there's Clarence, he probably has some of this stuff hoarded away!

[hodakamax]

A bit more on carb selection for the project. I've looked into using a 32mm or 34mm Mikuni but they're spigot mount. The 32mm Amal bolts right to the manifold I have. I've not been able to locate any spigot adapter that matches with the 52mm center to center bolt pattern of the reed manifold to the spigots of the Mikunis. Something could be made but the straight bolt-on Amal would certainly be easier to install and also would be more era correct. New Mikunis are quite a bit lower price but the price of an adapter for them (should you be able to find one) narrows the price difference. The Amal probably tolerates the angle coming off the cylinder with a straight reed assembly better than a Mikuni at least in my limited experience. Just thinking out loud here.

Maxie

[Bruce Young]

Maxie, why not take a look into carb mounts for Mikuni, Carbs in the Snowmobile or watercraft market, both use those brand of carbs and size Look on the web for Western Power Sports they have on line copies of all their catalogs, I am a dealer for them if you see something and need pricing and etc, get me the part number and catalog it came from and I will try to help $$$ Bruce Young

[taber hodaka]

I think my Ace 90 ran its best with the big Amal and Harry gave us the info on setting it up. I am sure my old one is still around here. --------------Clarence.

[hodakamax]

Hey Clarence, probably the same set-up on my 90. An Amal 32mm Monoblock non-reed with homemade manifold and Harry's advice. Bad news for the competition of the day! When I did the first reed conversion I switched to the Amal Concentric which served me and the other shop bike well. Even worse for the competition! Heh,heh,heh!

Maxie

[hodakamax]

You can tell not much is going on here when we're down to Bob Ross and The Old Man. The blast pile is growing and I think it's time to make the trip to the local body shop and execute this. It's about eleven degrees with a brisk wind and my heart is really not in to getting outside even though there is shelter on both ends. Maybe after lunch.

My welder guy will be very happy with a clean chassis for welding repair. My wife will also be happy as the sawing and grinding has subsided temporarily along with the accompanying metal chips being tracked into the adjoining house. Actually she's really quite tolerant and I too won't miss the mess. Once I get the rest of the rust and paint off, I'm sure we'll find even more cracks to repair and places to modify. This won't be the last trip to the welder I'm sure but a big step in getting this thing basically safe and sound.

OK. That's my minor report for the day.

Maxie