new owner, need advice

[squid on a 300]

buy a good set of left hand drill bits and extractors for your broken bolts...i have a set from Hanson..often time the left handed drill bit will remove the broken bolt

[hodakagirl]

Thank you, squid. I'll need to check that out.

Here's a pic of the broken? off nut/threads on the left side of the front axle, Jack. Thoughts?

[rlkarren]

nope, look's correct to me. it has a pinch bolt on the other side that secures the axle in place. The axle fits all the way through and threads into this end.

Roger

[Bullfrog]

Mayhaps I am having a "senior moment", but I've never seen a Hodaka 30mm fork steel slider with a boss like that for the drain screw.

. . . and all the Hodaka front axles I remember simply slide through a holes at the bottom of the fork sliders and have a ny-lock nut on the end of the axle.

So, please forgive me if I am having a senior moment . . . but that doesn't look like Hodaka original equipment to me. (. . . and none of my comments here address the problem of removing the axle . . . )

Ed

[dirty_rat]

Those are the "real old" Ace 100 (prior to the "B" models) forks, the ones with fork boots and external spring. I believe they only had 27mm fork tubes.

[thrownchain]

Post pic of other side of wheel please?

[Bullfrog]

Ah, OK. Those forks were well before my time at PABATCO.
Ed

[hodakagirl]

nope, look's correct to me. it has a pinch bolt on the other side that secures the axle in place. The axle fits all the way through and threads into this end.

Roger

So it's threaded into there and there's no nut to hold it on?? That doesn't seem right ... the rear axle has a nut on the other side. But yes, there is a pinch bolt on the other side of the front wheel, under the axle.

Post pic of other side of wheel please?

Here you go -

[hodakagirl]

Mayhaps I am having a "senior moment", but I've never seen a Hodaka 30mm fork steel slider with a boss like that for the drain screw.

What is a boss? I've seen that word elsewhere on this forum but I don't know what it means ...

Those are the "real old" Ace 100 (prior to the "B" models) forks, the ones with fork boots and external spring. I believe they only had 27mm fork tubes.

Yes! It has black rubber fork boots. It says in the manual they're different than the ace 90 forks in that they've been shortened to accommodate the accordion style rubber boots. Do you think I can keep them? Or would you replace?

[matt glascock]

A mounting "boss" is a generic term describing a threaded socket that accepts a screw/bolt. Another example is found on the inner engine cases. They are the threaded holes that accept the screws used to mount the clutch and shifter covers. The fork boots are and look cool. If they are not torn, use them. I have has good experience giving them a good wash with mild soapy water and a treatment with Armorall rubber preservative. I've also heard that a wipedown with WD40 is effective in keeping them supple and shiny black but I don't have person experience with that.

[ossa95d]

nope, look's correct to me. it has a pinch bolt on the other side that secures the axle in place. The axle fits all the way through and threads into this end.

Roger

So it's threaded into there and there's no nut to hold it on?? That doesn't seem right ... the rear axle has a nut on the other side. But yes, there is a pinch bolt on the other side of the front wheel, under the axle.

Post pic of other side of wheel please?

Here you go -
axle 2.jpg

Rest assured that there is nothing broken or missing on your axle. The axle is threaded into the left fork leg and then the pinch bolt is tightened to keep the axle secure. To remove the axle simply loosen the pinch bolt and unthread the axle from the left leg. To assemble the axle thread the axle tightly into the left leg, then compress the forks a few times to ensure that the right fork leg is aligned correctly on the axle, and tighten the pinch bolt at the bottom of the right fork leg. Many motorcycles use this axle configuration and it is very effective.

[squid on a 300]

loosen the pinch bolts on the bottom of the forks put a screw driver through the hole in the axle on the right side and unscrew the axle

[hodakagirl]

Thanks, Matt, Ossa, and squid. This is what I needed to know! The workshop manual is helpful, but the diagrams and explanations aren't quite as detailed as this newbie would like. I'll attempt the screwdriver-assisted axle removal procedure. Crossing my fingers I don't snap anything off. Don't worry, I will loosen the pinch bolt first

[viclioce]

The boots, if the other side looks as good as the one in the photo, I’d keep & use them. Claening is s good idea and so is some kind of rubber protectant. Something you can rub in & the rubber will absorb. Keeps it from dry rotting & checking, which is what usually does them in. Stay original where you can. And if you want them tho look new, get some Doc Brown’s Leather Back. It has a strong black dye in it! ; Victor

[thrownchain]

So how's it progressing?

[viclioce]

Anything new to report? Victor

[hodakagirl]

No, I hardly had any time this weekend. It was way too nice out! Had to go for a loooong scooter ride and paddle boarding on the Columbia River. I got those brass petcocks all cleaned up and shiny, tho they were filled with hardened varnish. They still need a little work but at least they're functional now.

Question: How do you remove the exhaust nut? Special tool needed?

Before

After

[viclioce]

I’d spray it with some PB Blaster or a similar freeing spray and let it sit over night. Then use a piece of wood as a drift and place it against the nut and tap the wood drift with a hammer to knock it loose. Heat and exhaust and even a bit of oil have all made it freeze in place. So you can warm it up too before hitting it.

The good thing about using wood as a drift is it won’t damage anything. And when you get the nut loose, clean the threads on both the nut and the exhaust port with a wire brush to make it go back on more easily. And you can use the same wood drift to tighten the nut back up when reinstalling! Victor

[Bullfrog]

Being as how you are in the Northwest . . . your garden variety chunk of left over two-by-four isn't going to cut it as a "drift" for the exhaust nut. Find a good hard piece of oak pallet wood or some-such.

With care, BIG (like 18") Channel-Lock pliers can handle the exhaust nut. (I can hear the gasps now.)

Ed

[Hydraulic Jack]

Something like this will work if you have one, can find one, or want to make one:

Collet spanner

[matt glascock]

That's what I use Captain. I do put about 5 or 6 wraps of duct tape on each jaw to avoid gouging the exhaust nut.

[taber hodaka]

I have the set of collet adjustable spanners but like Ed I use the channel-lock pliers. --------------Clarence

[hodakagirl]

I don't think I have big enough channel locks. Will try the PB blaster/wood-tapping idea first.

On a completely unrelated subject, tomorrow is a really big day for my son. And no, I don't mean Halloween. He's at Camp Pendleton in California and at 2 a.m. October 31, he and his Company will begin their final challenge to become US Marines, the Crucible. If any of you want to shoot some thoughts and prayers their way, it would be appreciated.

[viclioce]

Best wishes for his completion! Sir, yes Sir! Victor

[TheBevman]

Hodakagirl,

Congratulations to you and your son. I hope all went well with the Crucible. It is a bear, I remember going through it myself, fond memories now... not so fond then. I'm not sure if many on the forum know of the Marine Corps boot camp Crucible, but its a right of passage and where you eventually earn the title of United States Marine, you're a recruit (or often times something much less) until you complete it and make it to the top of the end obstacle, Mt. Mother ****er, and are given your Eagle, Globe and Anchor. Its quite an ordeal and something I've never forgotten, and I hope he did well.

Word of warning... have him try on his uniform before he goes back to continue training. Usually, they don't fit so well after all that good home cooking.

Beven
USMC 1999-2003 / 6531 Aviation Ordnance, AV-8B Harrier