I’ve installed a reed cage and new spigot type carburetor on my 95 CW and my air cleaner joint is now too long. I want to retain and utilize the original air cleaner box. Any suggestions?
I was thinking about making a cut in the middle of the air cleaner joint so I have two halves with the end pieces and then somehow trying overlaying the two pieces to create a lap joint and then “super-glue” the two halves back together.
That's one idea .... I was hoping there was something better.
95CW – Air Cleaner Joint
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Re: 95CW – Air Cleaner Joint
Hodaka Dave fabricated one for my reeded CW out of a snowmobile air cleaner joint so that I could retain the insanely cool original air box. You might contact him for advice at [email protected].
Re: 95CW – Air Cleaner Joint
Hodaka Dave gets a huge Thumbs-Up.
Keepin' the Shiny Side up
on a '72 Wombat 94
--Bill
on a '72 Wombat 94
--Bill
- RichardMott
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- Location: King of Prussia, Pa
Re: 95CW – Air Cleaner Joint
When I installed my reed valve I didn't need to do any mods to the air boot. I was prepared to, not needed. Here is a photo.
I did need to dent the exhaust pipe to put it on after the carb was installed. Perhaps the issue is yours is a spigot mount carb.
I did need to dent the exhaust pipe to put it on after the carb was installed. Perhaps the issue is yours is a spigot mount carb.
Rick Mott
In order to be old and wise, you must survive young and stupid!
In order to be old and wise, you must survive young and stupid!
Re: 95CW – Air Cleaner Joint
Hi! Thanks for the input and pictures. I have the Heat Block still on there. Do I need that? Removing that will help.
Re: 95CW – Air Cleaner Joint
Yes, take the heat block off. The spigot adapter serves the same purpose as well.
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Re: 95CW – Air Cleaner Joint
You can certainly try removing the heat block, but I think you will find that you are still some ways from simply bolting it back together. The difference is in the mount method. The flange mount clearly fits the space. The spigot mount still needs to have the spigot adapter. You would need to remove both the heat block and the adapter to push the carb close enough to use the original boot. Measure the thickness of both the block and adapter, and then measure the distance the boot overshoots the air cleaner. I think you will find they are about the same distance. So you can either chop off the end of your boot and hope it mounts and seals well,enough to work, or you can find some other air boot that fits the space and mounts both to the carb and the air filter, or you can mount a flange carb.
Hydraulic Jack
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