Tiny Hole

[go_hercules]

Just for grins I thought I would post a picture of my Dirt Squirt that this thread is referring to. Stock and unrestored except for the seat cover.

[matt glascock]

Ooh, that's a beaut!! They are sooooo fun to ride!

[MWL]

This Road Toad cylinder has a matching hole that extends into the intake tract. Interesting......

[matt glascock]

That's what I was wondering. Maybe that is the route for decompression of the casting void in the engine case halves. That port would align with the mystery hole and the corresponding opening in the base gasket. Thanks for posting that shot.

[Bill2001]

On my WBat-94 there is a cast-in boss with a center-drill spot on the clutch side. It lines up with the hole/cavity in the c'case. It may be something left over from an R&D idea. Maybe an idea for an auto oiler.

[go_hercules]

I think I will use the hole to inject nitrous oxide to my Dirt Squirt. Then I can call it a Super Squirt.

[matt glascock]

Now you're talkin'! That's some serious R&D

[matt glascock]

Bill, could that potential passageway be some type of site for an alternative compression release mechanism?

[go_hercules]

Original poster here - followup.

I ended up plugging this little hole by epoxying in a small aluminum dowel with JB Weld. Pressure tested it again and it seals the hole completely, no leaks there anymore. HOWEVER, this time the stupid intake manifold gasket between intake and head was leaking. I checked flatness of the intake and it was perfectly flat. I made a new gasket, put a little grease on it like I always do, and it still leaks there. So just to complete the test I put a temporary rubber gasket there. So the question is, should I use a gasket sealer there or what? I usually don't so it will come apart easier down the road.

[Bullfrog]

I am a fan of greasing the gasket too, (and not a fan of gasket adhesives) -- however, I have recently been "schooled" on those new fangled anaerobic sealants. It seems they are fuel proof (unlike your garden variety silicone sealant) AND they will scrub off with your thumb when work is required in the future. So that might be a good thing to use . . . sparingly. You don't want squeeze out to be problem.

However . . . did you check the flatness of the landing surface for the gasket on the cylinder? If it needs flattening, you'll need to remove the intake manifold studs. But that is OK because it would be good to seal the threads of the intake manifold studs cuz those holes directly intersect the cylinder stud holes (on Road Toads anyway) in the cylinder - and leaks can come from there. How? The bottom end of the cylinder studs should also be sealed cuz leaks can sometimes come from there (pretty much only on 125 cases). Yes, I know that the base gasket and head gasket should isolate the stud holes . . . but there you go. When in doubt, seal it - the engine has to be airtight. Anaerobic sealant for automotive use should be good for all those locations . . . or blue basic thread locking compound.

Ed

[go_hercules]

I checked the flatness of the landing surface with a straight edge in multiple directions and it appears nice and flat. I checked the manifold on a piece of glass while trying to slip a thin piece of paper underneath, and it appears nice and flat. I can put the manifold on the engine without a gasket and it does not rock at all. SO, I can pretty well say the parts are flat. I have a manifold gasket from Paul that I got a while back. i never used it because it is very hard. Don't know if I just let it get old or what. So I have been cutting my gaskets out of 1/32 gray gasket material. The one from Paul is a little thicker, but I don't think that would make much difference. Maybe I will just put on some sealer...