wheel bearing removal

[sparkyj]

Waiting for my manual to arrive.

How do you remove the wheel bearings from the 69 Ace 100?

[Bullfrog]

Review the illustrated parts list to develop a "feel" for how things go together (and come apart). If you are a member of the Hodaka Club . . . there is an article on wheel bearing removal in the Resonator Revisited. (Sorry, but I can't remember which issue.)
Ed

[Bert44]

Not sure if it's the same as my 1968 Ace 100 which has a spacer tube between the bearings. The idea is to try and push the tube off centre and use a suitable drift to knock a bearing out. Problem is that there isn't much surface area to start with. Try to knock out the bearing with the shortest distance to go - opposite the speedo drive on the front and opposite the sprocket on rear.
A modification I made before refitting everything was to grind two cutaways on one end of the spacer tube so if I ever needed to knock out the bearings again, there are two spots for the drift to fit in. I've got an old MZ that had those from manufacture and are the way to go.

[taber hodaka]

I use a long punch and a 16 oz hammer.-------------Clarence

[Bill2001]

With bearings pressed into aluminum castings I heat the aluminum to a "spit sizzle" temperature so the bearing will push out or even drop out. Heat to install-- the less violence around bearings, the better.

I wonder-- sealed and lubed bearings are now readily available and are used in some motorcycle wheels. I wonder if sealed wheel bearings could be used on Hodakas?
We're not looking at 100K service life and the bearings are easily replaceable. And using the stock seals plus the bearing seals would provide a bit more water-resistance.

[sparkyj]

OK so these ideas tell me a graceful force is needed. Great ideas. The inner height of the bearing is oh so slight compared to the center tube. I was afraid I would knock the bearing out of round. And I take it, you can't just apply force to one bearing and push the whole set out the other side, cuz each side sits in its own pocket correct? Are you guys using the Green waterproof lube on these wheel bearings? I need to get some new rubber seals asap. Tried to resurrect the shoes. Let them sit in the hot sun all day. They kept leaching the oil and I would clean with break cleaner. They were like soggy milk toast, literally. Seems like someone got a little over excited with the grease nipple

[Hydraulic Jack]

First, you can not simply push the whole assembly through from one end. Each bearing sits in its own casting and has to be pressed from the back side of the bearing.

Second, I don't think you could knock a wheel bearing out of round if you wanted to. It is the aluminum casting of the hub that needs protection, so go slow, and spread your taps around the bearing a little at a time. It should come out fairly easily.

The rubber seals mostly keep dirt out of the bearings. I don't think I have ever seen a Hodaka assembly that was water tight. So use whatever grease suits you, and if you go swimming often, clean and re grease the bearings.

As for the brake shoes, they are toast. You will never remove all the grease, and if they were actually soggy, they are also decomposed. Even if you get them dry they won't last and would always bleed oil. Just buy new shoes.

[sparkyj]

Thanks, I think you are right about the shoes. They'll never be right. i just needed to put up the street to see what is going on with the bike.

[Hydraulic Jack]

I wonder-- sealed and lubed bearings are now readily available and are used in some motorcycle wheels. I wonder if sealed wheel bearings could be used on Hodakas?
We're not looking at 100K service life and the bearings are easily replaceable. And using the stock seals plus the bearing seals would provide a bit more water-resistance.

Sealed and lubed bearings have always been around, and should be available in the same size as used for Hodaka wheels. Are they more water resistant? I don't think they are but feel free to give them a try. They cost a bit more but not much. Problem is you can't check the bearings for water infiltration if they have a pressed in seal, and you can't clean and degrease them without removing the seal. I don't use pre-lubed sealed bearings without popping out the seals, flushing with solvent, and regreasing using real grease instead of the Chinese chicken fat most sealed bearings are dabbed with. The seals can be removed but you have to be careful not to nick the rubber lip or bend the steel backing if you intend to reuse the bearing seal. The seals are not strictly speaking intended to be removed and reused but can be if you are careful.

End of the day, open bearings hand greased are just as easy.

[Bill2001]

I'm a traditionalist and prefer greasable bearings. But wondered about the sealed bearings being used.
On the Beemer I have a bearing greaser that allows the bearings to be regreased without disassembling the stack. Not too difficult to make.

[sparkyj]

Whats your favorite grease? !! speakin' of grease. Happy Father's day y'all

[squid on a 300]

Bel-Ray waterproof