clutch arm seal ?

[bronco70]

i have a small leak around clutch arm where it comes thru side cover
any body have tips on removing what looks like blind pin so i can
change seal ?

[Bullfrog]

I have a 1/4" wood chisel which has been "assigned" to the engine work bench just for these issues where a sharp, yet strong edge is needed to get under something to pry. The little drive pin can be loosened a bit with the chisel, then move to another slightly thicker point tool (small flat blade screw driver?) to lift the pin a bit more. Relatively quickly you should have it up enough that it starts to move more easily and you should be able to grab it with pliers. It does have sort of spiral "threads" on the shaft, so it needs to "spin" as it comes out (normal "lefty loosie"). Less than half a turn for the whole removal process. With the pin out, you'll be able to remove the clutch lever from the case to get at the O-ring.
Ed

[matt glascock]

Captain, are those pins a "one and done" item?

[Bullfrog]

I've re-used them without problem . . . as long as I didn't bugger up the head badly on removal.

If there is ANY concern about the drive pin "feeling" loose as it goes back in. A gentle, and small, and close "staking" of the material surrounding the pin will grip it tightly.
Ed

[Bill2001]

The little spiral pin or rivet is used in a couple of places on the Beemer. One recommendation is for the rivet hole to be drilled amd tapped for a metric screw such as an M4. Loctite to be sure it stays.
Would this work on the Hodie clutch arm?

[matt glascock]

Thanks Captain. I'm beginning to dig into a frozen Super Rat motor I picked up with plans to build it for a bolt-in spare. The DPO (I love that Abbreviation) had filled the engine top and bottom with kerosene to try to get it moving. When I picked up the motor, the sludge poured out around the clutch actuating arm. I'm sure the clutch case rebuild will be the only challenge I can't wait to see what other surprises are in store

[bronco70]

thanks thats the info i needed