Rotor/Flywheel Tool & Locked Up Motor

[JackM]

I recently bought a model 97 Super Combat parts bike that is complete, except the motor is locked up. It has a lot of the parts I need for my 97/98 hybrid that I'm putting together, including original Nitto tires, a rear fender and the original stand. I want to tear down the motor, so my question is: how to get the rotor off without having to purchase a special tool? Thanks, JackM

[matt glascock]

I just can't think of a substitute for the CDI removal tool, Jack. It's one of those specialty tools designed to do exactly one job and do it perfectly. The cost of the stock and the milling and thread cutting operations alone to have one made from scratch would likely eclipse the cost of the tool. They are like flywheel pullers - a gotta have. To attack it in an improvised fashion would likely risk damage to desirable and valuable parts.

[Hydraulic Jack]

Using the right tool makes the job a thirty second process. Using the wrong tool may never work and can ruin the crankshaft. Best bet, buy the right tool. You will need it again anyway if you want to service your own ride.

[JackM]

I'm reluctant to spend $60.00 for a tool that I'm only going to use one time, since the bike I'm fixing up I likely sell. Too bad Auto Zone doesn't loan them out. lol. Ideally, I'd like to restore both of them, but with the scarcity and price of Hodaka parts in general, I don't think it would be feasible. Mainly just out of curiosity, I wanted to look inside this motor to see what it looked like. I already know how bad the top end was. (not pretty). Anyone on here interested in a locked up model 97 motor?

[olddogs]

You can remove the stator assembly plate from the engine with the rotor still on. You can then use a mid sized 3 arm gear puller to hook behind the rotor. I have done it many times when my rotor pulled went into hiding. To keep the 3 arms of the puller from slipping off, I just used a large hose clamp around the rotor and arms to keep them tight against the back of the rotor. You are more likely to find a gear puller for loan at a auto parts store than a motorcycle flywheel puller with the right threads.

[dirty_rat]

Where are you located Jack? If you live close to someone else on this group, they may have the tool and can assist you it getting the rotor off without destroying the crank and or rotor.

[racerclam]

How much do you want for the locked up engine ?

Rich

[JackM]

Dirty, (I hate calling someone that) lol, I'm in western MD, near Cumberland. I might try olddogs method. Its worth a try. I had already removed the stator plate piece, and thought that maybe a 3-armed puller may work. Rich, just make me an offer. Are there any parts of it that you are interested in particular? Also, where do you locate?

[JackM]

Olddogs suggestion to use a small 3-arm puller worked like a charm. Borrowed one from Auto Zone. It also freed up the crank in the process. Now to get the stubborn phillips head bolts out of the cases. Many thanks. JackM

[viclioce]

I used an impact driver like this one to remove old, stuck case bolts. Worked really well too! I've had one of these for years and love it! Victor

[Bullfrog]

If you have an impact driver like Victor's - use the Phillips bit which looks like it is sized for the Queen Mary. It is a #3 Phillips. Do NOT use your garden variety #2 Phillips screwdriver (especially not a "well broken in" screwdriver). Did I mention . . . #3 Phillips?
Ed

[Bill2001]

Whilst we are on impact drivers and phillips...

Is there a "torque value" for the main case phillips screws? Back when I recall that we gave them 2-3 moderate taps on the impact driver, til they seemed snug enough. The ole "TLAR" approach.

BTW, Auto Zone has spare impact driver bit sets in 8mm, with #2,#3 phillips and flat. Hard to find replacements in 8mm, Sears is my usual source.

[taber hodaka]

If you have a good grip and a large handle screwdriver, hand tight will be tight. I have never had a problem. ----- Dale where are you?? -------Clarence

[rlkarren]

I switched to the allen head screws and was told 6 - 8 lbft for the case screws. I stopped at 6 lbft and appears to be sufficiently sealed. I do like knowing that all the screws are equally tight.

I find the impact driver most useful when trying to remove screws though.

$0.02
Roger

[thrownchain]

Where do you find Allen head screws with the proper taper? I stay with the Phillips head screws, I have a T handle screw driver with the #3 tip, I can get good torque on them with it.

[JackM]

I have two impact drivers, one Craftsman and another cheaper one that I got because it had longer bits. I've found that using the right size phillips bit is key to getting these stubborn bolts out. Sears will not replace these bits like they do on most of their Craftsman tools, and i have ruined a few of them. After using my trusty heat gun and some pounding, I finally worried all 11 of them out and split the cases. As its getting late here, I'll post some pics of what I found tomorrow.

[JackM]

The needle bearing in the lower connecting rod damaged. Crank bearing on left side frozen. The bearing with the snap ring damaged. Not sure what I'm going to do next, since the cylinder will need a rebore, cylinder head is bad, etc, etc.

[olddogs]

This K model motor is the most desirable one for a vintage race bike. They call them the Big Bearing model due to the mag side crank bearing being larger than the the Combat or Wombat. The left and right crank case bearings are less than 10 bucks and available at any auto parts store. Any Combat Wombat or plain old Wombat crank will work. Nothing special about it. This engine also had the close ration racing transmission. If its good, it may be worth your while to fix it.

Machine shop costs added to the cost of a rod kit could run $400.00 or more to rebuild the crank. Finding a good used crank is your best bet for bringing this engine back to life without breaking the bank.

[JackM]

Thanks for the suggestions, olddogs. I may just do that. I had intended to use a few parts off this bike on my model 98 project, and may still do so, but since the engine was the only bad thing about the parts bike, except for a good bit of rust on things, I'd have an almost complete model 97 project to work on when the 98 is finished. Enough to keep me busy for the next year or so. lol

[racerclam]

Jack , Im located in Utah, I really dont know what to offer for the complete engine . You decide what its worth to you

Rich

[JackM]

Rich, I'll keep the motor for now, and just try to find another crankshaft and the other parts I need as they become available. My original plan was to just take the parts off that I need for the other bike and sell everything else, but my hobby is preserving/restoring old bikes and I'd hate to part out this old girl, even if she is a bit rusty. JackM

[racerclam]

makes more sense to me ,

Rich