carb reed help

[bronco70]

just posting update
bike is running great took a few jet changes started with 220 and work down to 190
running 26 to 1 fuel mix right now but considering using the old hodaka 20 to 1
just to make sure i have plenty of oil getting to bottom end ? i hear alot of guys
say that with modern oil its safe to run 32 to 1 but i fear that i want get enough
oil thats why i am running 5oz of oil to gallon now but the combat called for 16 to 1
from factory what do the experts think?

thanks guys

[taber hodaka]

With quality oils the engine will run cooler if jetted correctly. Adding too much oil can cause other problems. Ams oil can be run at 100 to 1. I would respect the recommendation of Ed, Danny and many others. --------- Clarence

[Bullfrog]

The historical recommendation for 16:1 or 20:1 pre-mix for Hodaka engines was developed in the last century when it was common to use the same oil in the family Nash Rambler (30wt motor oil) and in your two-stroke pre-mix. I am convinced there is NO good reason to use more oil than a 26:1 or 28:1 ratio with a quality oil designed for use in two-stroke air cooled engines. I'm partial to 32:1 with premium non-ethanol gasoline. (I've had no experience with the 100:1 oils.)

Ed

[bronco70]

again guys thanks for the input i will stick with 26/1

[Hydraulic Jack]

Definitive discussion regarding oils types, ratios, and engine needs, all backed by years of racing and research:

http://www.klemmvintage.com/oils.htm

Bottom line is this: 100:1, no way; 16:1, needed for racing but not streeet use; 32:1, in the ball park for general use. But read the article more than once. Harry Klemm has the real dope. That he uses the Kawasaki 350 as the basis for discussion doesn't invalidate the conclusions. Klemm works with all kinds of two stroke vintage machines.

[taber hodaka]

I raced with 40:1 in the late 60's and 70's all wins or finishes without meltdown. I hated castor oil gummy bears,except for the smell. I also used the very best of oils as I was a distributor and owned friction test equipment. I do not endorse or recommend any specific oil. Tuning is the biggest factor in engine life along with a clean air cleaner, good quality oil and proper spark plug. I would be running 50:1 on the street with my quality oil. -----------Clarence

[bronco70]

bike seem to be running fine with 190 main jet and 4.5 pilot jet here is what i have air screw at 1 1/2 turn out transition from off idle is great no bog or delay bike seem slightly rich in 5th gear wide open so i droped needle 1 notch was at 3rd now on 4 now at wide open in high gear she runs clear
no sputter at all. bike start 1st or 2nd kick every time no choke needed untill saturday it would start and not idle would cut off plug fouled
in goes new plug and she runs great again for now.so my question is if i am not running to rich and plug fouling to soon should i go to a hotter plug??
i am running ngk b8hs since that what po was running book calls for b9hv which i think we be colder correct? looking for input i what to do
thanks for all the help guys

[Hydraulic Jack]

First observation: you have made needle changes and then reported improved jetting at wide open throttle fifth gear. The needle does not affect WOT. That would be a main jet issue. Transition from half to 3/4 or so is the needle position. If you are having issues with WOT sustained, without regard to gear, it's the main jet (assuming the ignition is not breaking up making it sound like a rich burble.)

Second observation: you are running 26:1 but I can't find where you mention what oil you are using, and what fuel you are using, i.e., octane rating and ethanol content. Plug fouling these days is more likely to be oil related than fuel related, but not always. I would not use a hotter plug to correct what is more likely a jetting issue or an air leak issue.

You might also want to review your air intake system to see if there are leaks and to see if the air filter is clogging air flow. Do you use a foam filter, and if so, what brand, what oil, and how much oil? Too much oil on a foam filter can cause rich running at WOT. An air leak between carb and cylinder can cause erratic jetting.

Was the weather substantially different on the day you had problems. Changes in humidity and density altitude can play with your jetting.

After experimenting with jetting, you should change the spark plug anyway so I would give the new one a bit of time to see how it colors and how it runs.

[bronco70]

First observation: you have made needle changes and then reported improved jetting at wide open throttle fifth gear. The needle does not affect WOT. That would be a main jet issue. Transition from half to 3/4 or so is the needle position. If you are having issues with WOT sustained, without regard to gear, it's the main jet (assuming the ignition is not breaking up making it sound like a rich burble.)

Second observation: you are running 26:1 but I can't find where you mention what oil you are using, and what fuel you are using, i.e., octane rating and ethanol content. Plug fouling these days is more likely to be oil related than fuel related, but not always. I would not use a hotter plug to correct what is more likely a jetting issue or an air leak issue.


You might also want to review your air intake system to see if there are leaks and to see if the air filter is clogging air flow. Do you use a foam filter, and if so, what brand, what oil, and how much oil? Too much oil on a foam filter can cause rich running at WOT. An air leak between carb and cylinder can cause erratic jetting.

Was the weather substantially different on the day you had problems. Changes in humidity and density altitude can play with your jetting.

After experimenting with jetting, you should change the spark plug anyway so I would give the new one a bit of time to see how it colors and how it runs.

running yamalube 2r 5oz per gallon try to buy 100% gas 93 most of time but it may have some 87 e10 in the mix now

air filter is aftermarket no name foam with no oil it said only add oil if you were in wet condtions
all new gaskets from clyinder to carb pretty sure no leaks i did add a little rtv to the carb to reed rubber adapter
i think it is still a little rich and if i had air leak i think that would go lean not rich

weather was a little colder and damper and it was same plug i did all my jetting with i started with 220 jet and i have 190 now
did the wot sputter method till i got to 190 it seem to run clear
i have a 180 which i did try but was afraid of going lean since my piston is .080 over.

the main reason i dropped needle 1 notch was because its still seems rich lots of oil at pipe at rear

also the plug in motor is hotter than stock plug called for should i change to stock plug? i didnt know if when po
added reeds if he change plug then to make better combo or not the plug now is ngk b8hs the plug
hodaka spec calls for b9 hv but acording to ngk catolog the only have b9 hs now so if i use that i would be
running colder plug correct?

[Bullfrog]

Bronco,

I am totally unaware of any kind of dry foam air cleaner that will keep dust out of your engine in dry conditions. I may have missed some world shaking development in air cleaner foam technology, but I don't think so. Small particles of dust will work their way through the dry foam . . . that is why foam air cleaners get oiled - to provide a means to trap/capture/make-the-particles-stick. As the old saying goes, "penny wise and pound foolish". You may save a teensy bit of money on a "no name" foam air-filter, and a little more by not purchasing and applying oil to the filter . . . but the higher piston/cylinder/ring wear which is going to result from the ingestion of particulates is going eat up all the savings and then some (actually, a lot).

The Combat Wombat did come with a "9" heat range plug . . . but we ran "8"s in Combat Wombats back in the 1970's both on the trail and on the track. I run NGK B8HS plugs now.

Like Jack says, lets take a look at one of your plugs again after you run the engine a while with the "8".

Try to keep the e10 blend gas out of your pre-mix inventory as much as you can. The ever changing quality of the fuel you run in your CW will drive you nuts on jetting if you sometimes have "pure" premium gas pre-mix and at other times half your fuel is e10 regular mixed in there too.

It is safe to assume that was a typo on the pilot jet right? You almost certainly don't have a 4.5, but do have a 45 right?
Ed

[bronco70]

Correct 45 pilot sorry
I was feeling dumb about filter
But paper work on filter said not
To oil any issue with using oil
I have for my k&n filters?
I will ride some later this week
Work alowing and pull plug and take
Picture
Started bike tonight 1 kick no choke
Runs great again after plug change
Do you recomend staying with bh8
Plug?
Thanks

[Bullfrog]

It would seem better to put the K&N oil on a K&N filter - or get a quality filter from one of the main suppliers of parts for Hodies, or get a UNI filter, or Filtron filter. Anything but foam from a "no name" supplier who actually thinks it makes sense to recommend no oil. My 2 cents.

. . . and yes, I am recommending the NGK B8HS . . . just like I run in my own Combat Wombat engine.

Ed

[Hydraulic Jack]

Ed,

You haven't missed anything new in foam filters. They all require oil to function at all, instructions notwithstanding.

Foam filters vary from brand to brand as to the micron pass rating (how big are the holes). Some makers won't tell you, and those I would not bother with. I prefer UNI over K&N but that's just me. I think the biggest difference between brands of filter oil is the color and cost. Even motor oil will work. Just squeeze out as much as possible.

If you jetted dry and then oil the filter you may, maybe, need to rejet the main, but the others should be okay. The biggest differences will be found at full flow and that is usually WOT which is main jet country.

Don't use e10 if 93 octane real gas is available. Yamalube 2R is fine. 26:1 is okay if you are happy with it. I run 32:1 and do a lot of sustained WOT, but I use Redline for that. I would expect you to have oil residue at the cold end of the pipe. Not all of your mix oil burns and that's normal, so your pipe is going to be oily eventually.

Break it in and ride it. I have run mile high to sea level without rejetting. Get it right and leave it be.

[bronco70]

thanks for the advice guys i will oil my filter and i would like to run a better one but untill
i change my pipe i dont have much option.with the reed and new intake added carb moved back a good inch
and the filter is jambed up on pipe the one i found to work is foam with spring inside allow me to bend it down
away from pipe just enough to not melt.all the k&n filters i found with the 44mm slip on would be forced into pipe
which put alot of pressure on carb flange making carb tilt down.thats why i am not running k&n right now
i am planning to build a new pipe soon or maybe i can find a super combat pipe at good price.i have the pipe sizes
from some old hodaka info that mr taylor did but all those pipes are for 100cc not sure if the sizes would be close
enough for 125 or not

[Hydraulic Jack]

Max showed us a foam filter a few months back that he used on his recent project bike. The filter had what looked like a 15 degree tilt to it so that the filter did not lie in line with the carb bore. That might help you fit a filter into your location. I don't recall which brand it was, and his project thread is about a hundred pages long. Perhaps Max can help us out here....

[racerclam]

Uni make a filter with and angle

Rich

[Hydraulic Jack]

Max's filter was a K&N but I would still use the UNI. Both are available with a tilt, me the UNI comes in a stubby version that might fit your situation. Cruise the catalogs. You will find something that works.

Or, use the stock airbox with a UNI filter. That will definitely fit the space available.

[bronco70]

another update i got new uni filter and did about 40 minutes riding some wot and some putting around
here is results
bike idles great and transition from idle to wot prefect or close to it anyway
but if i am around 3/8- 1/2 throttle it has the rich/4 stoking gurrgling sounds
but clears up as soon as i get past half throttle . i assume this is needle i am now
4th notch so i can only drop 1 more notch.what would experts recomend?
here is pic of plug

[bchappy]

May be stupid of me to even think this but be sure you are dropping the needle. Are you at the 4th notch from the top of the needle or the bottom?

[bronco70]

only have 1 notch left at very top of needle (top being up away from carb not the pointed end )
any body have comments on how plug looks??

[racerclam]

too rich , but the plug reading is only acurate at what ever consistant throttle position it has been running

Rich

[viclioce]

When I'm testing for richness on my Wombat, I use a brand new plug, warm the bike up so I can close the choke and then take my spark plug wrench with me. I run it about a mile then run it WOT & then kill the motor, pull immediately over and check the plug. Is this the way you ran your test or was there mixed riding involved, rode back home and then pulled the plug? Variations can cause varying indicators at the plug. Victor

[bronco70]

i droped needle 1 more nocth and it got rid just about all the mid throtttle sputter but temp and humd may have a part since today was hot and muggy compared to last ride .i think i will leave it here for now and try to enjoy riding bike for a while
thanks guys