Kill Switches

[Hydraulic Jack]

Rather than paste onto the continuing saga of Resonator Volume explanations, I wanted to comment on the initial post, which dealt with kill switches, and the link and photo of the Eastern Beaver switch.

From what I read about the EB switch on their webpage, those switches are a toggle design: one direction is on, one direction is off. The EB switch looks like a factory original style switch assembly and blends well with most any handlebar system. It looks like a very nice and durable switch. However, I would not use a toggle switch on a dirt bike, racing or otherwise. For a street bike they are fine.

Even the original Super Combat style switch is a version of a toggle - push once for on, push again for off. The problem with either style switch is function under duress. On the one hand, it is very easy to accidentally bump a toggle switch when riding off road, dodging trees and such, and there are times when this could be bad. The Super Combat style switch is not so much prone to accidental toggling, and is better for racing and off road for that reason, but I have found that the SC style button frequently doesn't work, sometimes having to push repeatedly to get it to toggle. This, too, can be bad. Also, you can not tell by looking at the SC style switch whether the ignition is hot or grounded. Combine the inability to tell what position the switch is in with the fact that it sometimes takes more than one effort to get it to work, and you have start up problems trying to get a bike to start on demand. I dumped my SC switch after two days.

Bottom line is that for racing or off road use, I prefer a momentary off switch, and there are several available that are of good design. I now have one that replaces the clutch lever perch clamp and becomes just a part of the lever assembly. Works every time and is hot ignition by default, which makes restarts under duress a no-brainer.

Just an opinion. Your results may vary.

[matt glascock]

Good call, Hydraulic Jack. For my play Hodies, I have the push button switches and share the main gripe that you can't tell the position of the switch at a glance. My serious race bikes, Hodaka or otherwise, all have momentary kill buttons. I've been to a few tracks where this set-up is an absolute requirement They also have to be red and on the clutch side of the bars.

[Bullfrog]

NOTE: The original Super Combat kill switch was momentary action.

[viclioce]

So momentary action? Is that the kind where you push & hold a button until the motor stops and then let go? Just not familiar with that term. Victor

[matt glascock]

Yes

[Bill2001]

Good initial post/article. The only downside to a momentary contact switch is that it is not positive Kill. If you have a throttle jam open or dump the bike you may not be able to press long enough to stop tje engine. I'm thinking that guards to preclude inadvertent switch actuation. Just my preference.

[Hydraulic Jack]

Bill,

Your concern about a runaway engine can be addressed with a deadman switch and wrist band. Perhaps no one method of grounding the ignition serves all needs all the time. I was simply reflecting on past experience with various kill switches and pointing out that toggle switches are best used on street or non competition equipment. The ones referenced as the Super Combat style available these days are not momentary devices, or at least the one I received was not. Only rode an original SC once back in the 70's and can't recall if the switch was momentary or toggle. Perhaps someone lucky enough to still have an originally equipped Super Combat or late model Super Rat can verify.

At the end of the day, there is a reason why motocross bikes don't come with ignition keys.

[Bill2001]

My road bjke is a 73 BMW, which was the last year before they went to DOT-standardized controls, etc. No kill switch, but the ignition switch is a push-pull switch on top of the headlight housing. Easy to reach under duress. My next Hodie killswitch might be a weatherproof momentary pushbutton in a custom housing. I like sanitary.

[Bullfrog]

Um, I got a chance to ride Super Combats during the prototyping stages . . . the kill switch was momentary. And production units had momentary action kill switches. Yes.
Ed
PS: Some time ago Strictly Hodaka found a supplier of kill switches which were virtually an exact visual copy of the OEM kill switch for the SC, but the new supplier's switches were "latching" type (also called "push on - push off").

[matt glascock]

Deadman switches with wrist bands never appealed to me. Especially for woods courses where the lanyard can easily get snagged. Also, regardless of right or left-hand attachment, if they are short enough to reduce snagging, they can limit mobility for necessary actions such as managing tear-offs or shaking off arm pump. That's why several of the tracks I race on have the clutch-side, red, momentary kill button requirement. All track personnel know exactly where to find it if you get launched. Those are great for personal watercraft and boats but not necessarily for dirtbikes. That's just my personal experience.

[MTrat]

Lanyard type kill switches were more often seen at hillclimbs. An old pair of mounted ignition points with an insulated tab between the points attached to the lanyard were common. A hillclimb scene I remember was a climb apex stall followed by the 2-stroke bike (Greeves or Bultaco, I think) restarting in reverse mode for an exciting partial descent backward.

[Hydraulic Jack]

Matt,

I agree completely that a red, momentary, left side kill switch is correct for dirt biking, be it woods, moto, or whatever. Not that I haven't dumped a bike now and again, but in all those years of falling down, never had a problem with a momentary switch, and never felt the need for something else. The one that replaces the perch clamp puts the button in exactly the right spot to find it with a thumb, it can't twist around and get lost on the handlebar, it's billet, and bullet proof. Not cheap though at just under $50. Still, in 1970 dollars that would be about $1.98 so not bad for good equipment.

[matt glascock]

I'm with you 100%, Hydraulic Jack. I'm going to look into these EB switches. I'm getting a piston port CW together which is going to be a dedicated woods weapon/hare scrambler as my other CW is reeded, set-up and tuned for MX. Yes, it rips. The kill switch that came on the current project bike is roached. I like the thought of the integrated unit as the bar-mounted ones can spin and migrate.

[Hydraulic Jack]

Here is the one by Ride Engineering, $49.95. Comes in aluminum color or black. Maybe other colors too. Look around.

[matt glascock]

Ooh, I like that! I was mistaken. The EB is not what I want. Its "Ride Engineering". I'll check it out. Thanks!!

Best,

Matt

[Bill2001]

I like that too! I'll put one up for future use.