It runs!!... just can't get the clutch to engage...

[kurtpenn]

Bought this motorcycle new when I was in the 9th grade, back in 1977. It was my mode of transportation to/from high school, used if for my paper routes, and had fun with it on the trails. The last time is was started was about 27 years ago. I just finished restoring it... most is original including the green paint, except for painting the frame, replaced some rubber hoses, tires and seat cover, changed the oil and that is really about it... To my surprise it started up... and runs great!!

One issue though... I can not get the clutch to engage!! So... I've pushed it while running in neutral and then engage to first gear and shifted through gears... hoping the clutch would 'work' loose. But even so, when I pull in the clutch lever it doesn't engage the clutch and I have to kill or stall the engine when coming to a complete stop. I've taken of the clutch cover housing and everything looks clean...really clean! I just can't figure out why the clutch won't engage???

[ossa95d]

Nice looking Road Toad! It is very common for the clutch plates to be stuck after sitting, especially for that long. Usually the plates will break free and "dis-engage" if ridden around with the clutch lever pulled in and fully warmed up. You will do no damage by shifting the transmission without the clutch as long as you briefly let off the throttle while shifting. Do not shift under power or load. In extreme cases the clutch might need to be disassembled in order to free the plates but it's rare. Good luck!

[matt glascock]

Ivan's advice is sound. I've done what he describes and it works. Just a few other thoughts. Do you feel resistance on the clutch lever when you disengage the clutch. If not, the pressure piece is missing. If there is resistance, you might need to sequentially add spacers (shims) under the clutch disk. This will allow you to get more mileage out of the clutch as the disks are worn down. Of course, I'm sure you've already checked to see that the lever and cable are moving the clutch arm properly. After this amount of time, you may need to consider a clutch rebuild. Slightly off topic, but nonetheless important, at the very least you should perform a leak down test and for the most dependable way to stave off engine disaster, replace the seals as a matter of course. I would be concerned that after this amount of time, the seal's integrity would be questionable at best and the resultant air leak could cause catastrophic damage. Also, confirm function of the oil pump or remove it completely and run premix. Failed oiling will guarantee a new top-end job at least. Don't ask me how I learned about this. I summarily deny previous personal experience

[taber hodaka]

Kurt when you print engage you are really meaning disengage? I have not had clutch plates come loose if they have been stuck for a long time. Some times things have rusted and they are stuck like glue. Some storage areas are at a reasonable temperature 40, 50, or 60s. But if the temp ranged 10 degrees to 110 degrees I would redo the seals. That's my take. Like Ossa said don't shift under power or load and I would add especially at high RPM.------Clarence

[Bullfrog]

I would add that I have "run the test", 40 or so year old original engine seals WILL fail in pretty short order. I tested it on two bikes. Got about 5 rides on one of 'em and a bit over twice that on the other. I felt semi-confident about running the tests because I used to work in the PABATCO/Hodaka Service Dept. I already knew what to watch and listen for if a seal failed . . . and since I was purty dang sure one or more of 'em WOULD fail, I was extra diligent. As a result, I experienced no engine damage when seals DID fail. In the absence of direct experience and experienced caution . . . you should be planning on engine tear down and seal replacement as soon as possible. (Replace the bearings while you are in there.) Trying to save the hassle and cost of bearing and seal replacement could (will?) lead to expensive engine damage. Sorry to be such a downer here. Of course if you do the tear-down, clutch disassembly and reassembly will surely separate the clutch discs and plates which have "married" after 40 years of pressure contact.
Ed

[taber hodaka]

Cheap Chinese Bearings do exist of poor quality and I am not sure how to know their Quality ones. I use American Japanese or German. Ed is so right on here as most most always Don't givem big head. I feel that if your engine runs crisp at all rpm ranges it could be temporally okay but I could not trust for durable or a big ride. Now I am thinking Hodaka here not Goldwing.s . I would not test jetting by cranking it on all the way and see how she goes. I thinking with my viewpoint if you are in your power band and crack the throttle and it bogs to me your are lean. I have seen a few old seals that were good, many times the seals have hardened not pliable and may seal for a short while, but they will fail quickly. You could spend allot of time sharing thoughts on what to check for on a old bike that has sat for 20, 30+ years. The old foam air filters many times have turned to dust. so service the engine drain the oil this can tell you allot But if it is my rider I will be changing the seals.----------Clarence