Timing the Hodaka

[spudman]

Thanks Danny! I hope to do the timing over the weekend with the old school timing light like you describe. Being single, I'll try to cruise the bars later tonight in search of a woman willing to lend me her nail polish. Err...you know what I mean. It'll be hard for her to resist a man with a Road Toad.

[dcooke007]

Yep Road Toad is a chick magnet. If you really want the girls though, can't beat a old school ace 90....a real granny getter!!!!

[Bill2001]

Danny-- I wonder if one could drill a hole in the shifter case over the timing mark to make it easier to do a quick timing check with a strobe light. Keep a rubber plug in the hole any other time.

[dcooke007]

Danny-- I wonder if one could drill a hole in the shifter case over the timing mark to make it easier to do a quick timing check with a strobe light. Keep a rubber plug in the hole any other time.

Bill,
I had never thought of that before. I always try to seal the ignition cover best as possible to keep moisture out. As I thought about it, maybe it would not be as practical as one might think. The shift cover needs to be removed from time to time for inspection, cleaning and re-greasing. That would be a good time to also check point condition and timing.

In my area of the woods, east coast, humidity is very high and moisture does condense in the ignition cover. I have thought about leaving the ignition cover loose on my bikes to allow some air flow. Of course that would be for bikes that don't see a lot of use.

Danny Cooke

[spudman]

I have to assume that my 99 Road Toad is unique then, as I can remove my magneto cover without needing to take the shift cover/case off at all. Also, the magneto cover itself would cover both timing marks on the engine case if left in place. Are your bikes different?

[dcooke007]

I have to assume that my 99 Road Toad is unique then, as I can remove my magneto cover without needing to take the shift cover/case off at all. Also, the magneto cover itself would cover both timing marks on the engine case if left in place. Are your bikes different?

Spudman,
Sorry, forgot there are two versions of the shift and magneto covers. The early Hodaka's shift and magneto covers are one piece. The later models have separate magneto and shift cover assemblies.

Danny Cooke

[spudman]

Ah....I see. Even in the earliest of years, Hodaka was always working on a better idea.

[spudman]

Just finished timing my Toad with a regular old timing light. I wish I would have gone right to this method from the start. Very simple and straight forward. Using the old "strip of cellophane" method got me close and the timing light allowed me to dial it right to where it needed to be. Thanks for all the help and information guys! The forum here has made my restoration project waaaaay easier than it might have been without your help.

[Bullfrog]

. . . and several of us are glad that you checked the timing with the timing light. I (for one) believe that is the only way to actually KNOW when your spark is happening.
Ed

[hodakamax]

. . . and several of us are glad that you checked the timing with the timing light. I (for one) believe that is the only way to actually KNOW when your spark is happening.
Ed

The spark is happening when the points break whichever way you check it. Both methods are good and do verify exactly when the spark will occur. Cellophane and feeler gauges are only approximate in my opinion. When using the continuity method you should be sure to turn the engine the direction it will run. This will insure any discrepancies in how the points ride on the cam per direction.

The advantage of the continuity method is you can easily set the timing with the engine removed. If you finally get discrepancies between the two methods then something else is wrong.

Max's opinion!

Maxie

[hodakamax]

Phil, you will need to set the points as described in this discussion. You can set them with a feeler gauge or use this method which is more accurate. Good luck!

Max