Left side crank seal replacement procedure?

[spudman]

Hi all -
I've read quite a bit about the impending left side crank seal failure that my (and apparently all) Hodaka(s) will suffer at some point. In my case, it's a model 99 Road Toad with barely over 1000 miles, but a lot of sitting stationary over 41+ years. I've read numerous posts here about how it is important to do...and that it can be done without splitting the cases. What I can't seem to find however is any tutorial or procedure on how it is done and what special tools I may need to do it. If anyone can point me to a thread on how this is done, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks in advance as always!

[hodakamax]

Wow, it's been decades since I've done one. It seemed like I carefully drilled a couple small holes in the seal and installed two small sheet metal screws and pulled the seal with pliers. Let's see if the Gang has a better idea. It should come out easily.

Max

[spudman]

I'm hoping Dale Dvorak chimes in, as in many of his posts on the topic, he states that it is not that hard of a job...and that you will need a "puller". I wasn't sure if he meant a puller for the seal itself or for some other part (flywheel?) that needs to be removed to get to the seal.

[taber hodaka]

you will need a flywheel puller. Remove the shift cover, pull the flywheel, take off the backing plate and you are there. Some times the seal has pushed out and it is easy, much easier than pulling bearings. come on Dale.-----------Clarence

[Dale]

Just down off of a 32 foot ladder and see that I am being called. Ha!
Yes, puller was for the flywheel. However they do make seal pullers but I do not own one.

The last seal that I removed was also very stubborn. It took patience and extreme care not to contact the case surface to avoid any damage and an occasional swear word or two. I used repeated heat cycles with a heat gun, lots of penetrating oil and then used the hook end of a spring puller to pop it free.

[spudman]

Thanks guys! Just a few more questions though:
1. Is there still the issue with not inserting the seal in until it is flush, due to the blocking off of some oil orifice in the crank if you do so?
2. Is the method of installing it simply to tap it in with a socket the same size as the seal?
3. Any type of sealant needed around the outer edge of the seal when installing it?
4. With the removal of the backing plate (I believe this is referred to as the "magneto assembly frame in the schematics for the 99 Toad), will this require readjusting the timing after reassembly?
5. Is the method shown in the attached photo of a Kawasaki triple left side crank seal "allowed" or recommended with the seal on the Toad?

I sincerely hope Dale is not back up on that ladder when this post hits and triggers his "Forum Alarm" again!

[dcooke007]

I use a thinner 5mm seal rather than the original 7 mm seal. No issues when installed flush.

Danny Cooke

[hodakamax]

Ok, I'll try on the questions. 1. No, 2. yes, but the crank will be sticking out, you might need to stack sockets-- It won't be hard to push in, 3. no, but do put some oil on the seal lips and edges. 4. no, it shouldn't but it's a good time to check it while the case is off. and 5. will work also, some seals have metal in them that might have to be drilled as mentioned above. Better have Dale check me especially on #1!---Looks like Danny already has.

Max

[spudman]

Thank you Danny and Max! Danny...do you happen to know if the seals sold by Strictly Hodaka are 5mm or 7mm? I don't see any specs on the seal when I look at the description on their website. If they are the 7mm, can you suggest a good source to pick up a 5mm version?

[Dale]

I have installed the 7mm seals in model 99 Road Toads and stopped just short of flush. There is a outer lip on the seal that is pretty visible and I stop there. I install them with the case clean and dry and the outer seal edge dry. As stated above, make sure to either oil or grease the inner lips of the seal.

When installing the seals with the cases split it is very easy to see what is happening and it is also easy to measure the distance from the front of the case edge to the oil hole. Not so easy to see when replacing the seal over the crank with the motor intact.

[Bullfrog]

I like to use a SHARP punch to make a starter hole for the sheet metal screw(s) rather than drilling. I just don't like the idea of drilling shavings in that area.

Here is the Service Bulletin illustrating why full insertion of the stock seal is not recommended. The chamfer on the OD of the stock seal provides a positive indication of how far "in" the seal can be driven.

Ed

[spudman]

Thank you VERY much for this detailed information Bullfrog! I knew I had read something about this in various other posts, but it really drives the point home when you see it in a factory service bulletin.

[admin]

Spudman our seals are 7mm wide like the OEM seals. I like Danny's thoughts but I try to source parts as close to OEM as possible. Just for the reason Ed has shown in the service bulletin above. I lot of time,thought and energy went into these service bulletin's.

[spudman]

Thank you sir for the information and help!