1972 Hodaka Wombat fires up

[Forrest]

Hi folks,
I've either been too busy or lazy to get back to my 72 Wombat. After installing the new top end it sat for a few months. Tried it out today. Started on the 4th kick. Idled fine after I turned the adjustment screw in. Road it around the yard and got thru 4 gears, clutch worked fine. I was giving it gas/oil by filling up the gas line only as I didn't want to fill the tank since it was going back in the basement. Front end felt squishy, front brakes awful, plastic levers, awful..lol. But it felt and the 2 stroke oil smelled good. Lights were not happening, but I have no battery in it, thought they might anyway. The red-light on the speedo came on at one point (?). JB Weld held for the moment on the pipe. Throttle cable ball end at the throttle doesn't see to be a good fit, see video. Anyway I'm pretty stoked and can't wait to take it for a ride. Thanks to all for tips along the way you guys.

-Forrest (now to start pulling apart my Combat Wombat engine again)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXEvvquo ... e=youtu.be

[BrianZ]

Congratulations on getting another old Hodaka back among the living and thanks for posting the video. The front brake on that bike is not the best but stock levers will improve the feel (I've never been a fan of the plastic levers). New brake shoes will improve braking performance as well. I've also found that the throttle cable is not the best fit, but it hasn't caused any problems once everything is together (for me anyways).

So what's the problem with you Combat Wombat engine? I thought it was running.

Brian

[Forrest]

Thanks Brian,
I'm going to try to give the Wombat a run today before the cold rain starts (I'm in Mass).

The Combat Wombat engine on the Road Toad Frame was making whining noises in the transmission in certain gears and it has low compression despite new bore and piston. I think I might look for a new head, that one was a cheapie I got off ebay, doesn't seem warped but who knows. I may have also shimmed the kick start too tight? Although it feels fine.
-Forrest

[Dale]

Good to hear another Wombat running. Congrats. As for your front brakes, I would add to be sure and clean up the surfaces along with new shoes and then set the pads in place by doing these steps; raise the bike, loosen the front axle, spin the wheel, apply the brake firmly and hold, tighten the axle, release the handle. It really does work...
Dale

[socalhodaka]

If you really want to know about the front brakes, Capt.Ed did a whole series on the subject in the Resonator. Starting with Volume 1 #10, Volume 1 #12, Volume 1 #13 and Volume 2 #1

One important thing to remember, don't use the pinch bolt to hole the axle while you tighten the nut. If you do use this method make sure to loosening the pinch after and then re-tightening, or you will have binding.

You can find this info in the Members Only area on the Hodaka Club web site. This is the kind of stuff that so great as a Club Member to get, you are a member I hope? If not you should join, 24 back issue of the Resonator available to read. Also special Member prices on stuff like Calender, Plate Frames, Key fobs.

[Forrest]

Just came back from my first ride. Started on the first kick, and first kick every time all day, shifted great (wow). The front forks didn't feel too bad, I was just putt'n around for a break in and it was 40 degrees and raining, terrain was half frozen ice and some snow, everything was pretty slippery.

Rode down some power lines, and didn't break 30 mph,was kind of bogging it, rain in face, but the speedo works. Rear brake locked up a bit too easy, I was having a bit of a problem finding the rear brake pedal, I will probably get use to it. The front brake was useless, I had the front wheel off for a new tire and cleaned the brakes, maybe I got an oily rag on it. I'll take it off and take Dale and Socal's advice, probably should check the rear brake too, probably rust causing the lock up (although like I said it was very slippery conditions).

I wanted to keep riding but the rain soaked thru and my hands were numb, what fun!

-Forrest

[BrianZ]

As you have mentioned, I also find that the rear brake on the Wombats is a little too sensitive. On my first ride with my Combat Wombat I was always locking up the rear wheel. As I got used to it, it's no longer a problem.

Brian

[Dale]

Kelly,
Thanks for the clarification and reminder on the pinch bolt. I knew that there had been previous detailed information from Ed on the front brake adjustment and just did not take the time to find the source.

Forrest, I am hoping that you have that Wombat jetted pretty rich in 40 degree temperatures. Now that you have it running, keep it going!
Dale

[Forrest]

Dale,
I used a bit extra in my 20:1 mix with Bel-ray synthetic.
-FT

[Dale]

Forrest,
Here is a statement that will likely make some scratch their heads... but I am going to throw this out anyways. This is just my opinion...

Cold air means more air in the fuel mixture to the motor and therefore a lean condition. To compensate for that you need more gas through your jetting. To get more gas, you need bigger jets and not more oil. More oil will actually reduce the fuel flow and make the lean condition even leaner. This seems backwards but it is true.

I know of people that add oil to their tank as they ride and gain high altitude to lean the mixture a bit and therefore avoiding a stop to install a smaller jet. I have not ever done that, but it does make you stop and think about it.

My point to all of this is that if you have your jetting dialed in for warm weather and then decide to ride in colder weather, then going up a couple of steps on your main jet is called for.
Dale

[Bullfrog]

Forrest:

You can take Dale's comments to the bank. He perfectly described the situation.

Ed

[Bullfrog]

About the brakes.

Front - You have to pay attention to two things when tightening things up. You have to be sure that the fork legs have "found" their properly aligned positioon parallel to each other - and you must not do anything to disturb that as the axle nut is tightened. AND you must get the brake backing plate and shoes properly centered - and you must not do anything to disturb that as the axle nut is tightened. Using the proper procedures assures that both considerations are solved.

Rear - I've been quite surprised about the comments on the rear brake being touchy/grabby. Of course personal preference is really important in such things . . . but there is one machine prep thing which could cause the problem. It isn't likely that this situation is involved, but since it is safety related - I thought I'd mention it. IF the nut at either end of the brake stay arm happens to be less than fully tight, the resulting looseness of the brake backing plate WILL lead to sudden grabbing whenever the brake is applied. So it might be good to check the brake stay arm nuts/bolts. (Or even loosen the stay arm bolt and axle bolt and re-do the rear wheel tightening procedure completely to assure the brake backing plate and shoes are properly centered.)

Ed

[Forrest]

Dale,
Appreciate the info, never thought of cold riding effecting jetting. Is it true with four strokes as well?

I actually made a note that the main jet was a 160 (sound right?) the last time I cleaned the carb. What would you recommend for say winter, down to 30, summer, up to 90 degrees?

I remember reading once adding extra oil can actually have the opposite effect, so I try to get it right. I also have read that modern oils are much better lubricants so you can go leaner on them, although I've also heard using the original manufactures mix is probably still the best. (???)

I certainly don't want to open a big can of worms about oils, but I do appreciate good advice and hearing what works for people.

I hope to get around to looking at my front brakes and trying out the methods posted in the next few days (after I fix the damn snowblower), is auto brake cleaner ok on these pads?

Thanks again!
-Forrest

[Dale]

Yes, 160 sounds right for a 94 Wombat. I know that some came stock with a 140. The good news with the Wombats is that it is so easy to change the main jet so I would take a notepad and do some testing and document what you experience at each temperature range. Find the main jet that is "too rich" at wide open throttle while pulling a slight incline. Then go one step smaller until you get rid of the blubber at WOT. Once you test your bike at various temperature ranges then you will know the correct jetting for the current temperature. Of course, altitude and humidity affect fuel mixture too and significant changes in either must be accounted for. Another factor is your air cleaner. Keep it clean and oiled and be consistent with the care of the element.

My experience with 4 strokes is that they are not nearly as temperamental with jetting as 2 strokes. I have had 4 strokes that needed a size smaller jet at very high altitudes, but that is about it.

I agree that the modern oils can be mixed at at a higher ratio. Personally, I have been using Yamalube 2R at 32:1 and only use non-ethanol gas. I think 40:1 would work just fine, but I like to think the extra oil is good and I have not fouled any plugs with this oil. There are many many good choices in oil and yes, the manufacturers recommendation is a good reference. I will also add that I originally tried running BelRay H1R oil and had a miserable time getting the jetting correct on 3 different Hodaka's. Once I switched to Yamalube, everything fell into place. This disturbed me as I have always been a fan of BelRay products, but not H1R for my Hodaka's. Pretty weird I think.
Dale

[Forrest]

I had a chance to check out the brakes today. The pads looked glazed, I sprayed them with some brake cleaner, enough to get the glaze off and not the adhesive, cleaned the drums which weren't too bad. On assembly got everything lined up and looking right, tightened up the axle then the pinch. I still couldn't make them lock up. I put on a universal perch/lever and it is much better, at least here in the basement, those plastic levers are the worst.

Thanks Ed, Dale Kelly, Brian.

-Forrest

[Bruce Young]

Hello, you might check to see if the cable adj is correct and the cable has not stretched too much to adj. any more or not like it should. Also make sure the adj. screw is correct for the perch and adj. like it should, Last you might just check the brake lever pivot that goes through the backing plate I have seen these striped a little, also so true for the lever, it can be remounted in diff setting might help with the leverage of the cable to the brake. All needs to be checked top to bottom and yes plastic levers are not the best. Make sure they two are correct for the perch, can cause the lever to hit before the cable is pulled all the way. Bruce Hodakaparts.com Idaho

[Forrest]

Thanks Bruce,
Cable seems, plenty of adjustment left on both ends, moves well. Brake lever pivot also looks good, next time I place an order I'll get some new pads. Might be ok as is. Thanks

[Dale]

Forrest, Another thought on the brakes. Have you played with the cam lever position? When you apply the brakes fully, the cam lever should not go beyond 90 degrees. If you are close to 90, then you can re-position the lever to reduce the angle. A long shot, but worth checking.
Dale

[Forrest]

Hi Dale,
The cam lever position looks goos as well, probably in its stock position. I think the lever is going to make a big difference, I'm going to order a new set, would love to get some old Maguras.

-Forrest