The Road Toad Starts Today!

[---]

I had to reread much of the comments above but I think I got it now. Vic was installing the left bearing with the case half sitting flat on a bench, but without direct support of the bearing boss against which he was driving the bearing. I can see a hammer strike breaking the case in this way if the bearing boss was unsupported.

It's a learning curve thing.

Here is one of those instances where having a press would be nice. It is far easier to install bearings with an arbor press than a hammer.

[viclioce]

No circlip on the left side. Only on the right. Yes, I wish I had a press available to me. I may take the next case to a location with a press do I don't do this again. Cases are expensive and usually only sold in pairs.

And the reason I get so much done in do little time is because I'm both retired & motivated.
; / Victor

[viclioce]

Tom, in answer to your question, you're seeing the right side bearing and snap ring through the hole in the case. The left bearing isn't there in the picture. It's slightly out of focus because I was focused on the bearing boss.

I had slid the case halves back together partially, and stuck them o
Under my bench. Pulled it out to take the picture. So it just kinda looks like what you thought you saw. ; D Victor

[rtboone]

Victor

Thanks for the reply. The optical illusion was confusing, and your explanation makes perfect sense to me now.
Good luck with the RT project.

Tom

[ossa95d]

I will admit I also was confused by the optical illusion. Thanks for the clarification. Makes perfect sense now.

[viclioce]

Yeay! Good news! I followed Greg & Clarence's advice and used a bigger hammer! Got the crank/bearing out as one unit. I had to drive the metal ring of the seal out as well and run the opening with a round file & Emory paper! Now I need to clean the rust from the case. I got a steel brush and a brass brush to fit on my drill. Hopefully, this will clean the left case enough to make it usable. And I have a second set of cases on the way which should be here in a day or two. So I'm back on track again

[viclioce]

Oh, and wear gloves on your hands when using a drill powered wire brush...... : / Victor

[viclioce]

Now I just need to clean inside the bearing boss! I sprayed it down with PB Blaster and will let it sit the night. ; D Victor

[taber hodaka]

More important than gloves is the need for safety goggles or glasses. ----------Clarence

[viclioce]

Those I had on. Just didn't think about gloves or "slippage!" ; / Victor

[viclioce]

OK! Not only is the crank out but I got my second set of cases yesterday afternoon. But alas, it turns out they are NOT Road Toad cases as listed bug rather Ace 100 cases. So I'm back to my second set again. Thankfully the crank is out without damage to the case. But now I can only build 1 motor instead of two. ; / Victor

[viclioce]

Took cases to local machine shop to have bearings pressed in. Since I didn't have a large enough pair of snap ring pliers, they will pull the snap rings and re-insert. So I should likely have them back this afternoon, because when I went at 11:30 they were all caught up! Even doing two sets of cases will cost me less than a reasonable press to do it myself. If I ever need to do bearings again, I'll look at maybe buying one then. Soon...Very Soon!!! ; D Victor

[viclioce]

Here's the cases painted and ready for reassembly! Still need to clean and paint the clutch cover but that won't take long! Using a high heat, ceramic engine paint! ; D Victor

[viclioce]

Got the bottom end back together! However, the crank is sticking. When I turned it with the clutch/flywheel wrench, I found Yamabond on the crank weights! Evidently, because I was pushing on and pulling off the left case so many times getting things to line up correctly, I got spots of Yamabond on the crank weights.

So I'll have to pull it apart, clean the crank and the case edges and put it back together again! I DO want to thank Clarence for putting the voodoo hex on me saying I was finally experiencing the type of problems everyone else experiences. THANKS CLARENCE!!! ; D Victor

[Bullfrog]

Keep in mind that the you only need a very small amount of sealant on the crankcase edges to do the job. Even with a very small amount of sealant, most of it will end up as "squeeze-out" due to the tight fit of the crankcase seam. Opinions vary - and you already have the Yamabond in hand - but I'm partial to the new-fangled anaerobic sealants. They are not messy to apply and they clean off easily when the time comes for a re-build.
Ed

[viclioce]

I used an extremely small amount. I put dabs the size of baby aspirin on a snap blade razor knife and used the knife to spread it thinly, on just the edge of the right case.

However, internal parts being what the are & doing what they do, moved around some and I would slide the left case half on & off again & again trying to get things to line up properly so the cases would meet.

Because I pulled the left case up and down so many times, some of the bond moved, made contact with the crank weights and by the time I had everything closed up it was on the crank and drying.

I am leaving out of town for a 2 week motorcycle ride around Lake Tahoe and Northern CA. So I won't be getting back to it until my return! YEAY! Vacation!!!

I also have acquired most of the missing parts needed to complete the 2nd Road Toad frame. Danny has a cylinder for me, which I will buy from him and then I need a piston kit with wrist pin, bearing, clips and a bore to match the oversize. I will complete this when when I return. ; D Victor

[dirty_rat]

Capt. Ed,

What is this new-fangled anaerobic sealant you mentioned? I'm sure, just like everything else, there are various brands out there, but what are you using and where do you get it?

Thanks

[bchappy]

Jumping in for Ed. Here is a link for anaerobic sealant that I use: https://www.permatex.com/products/gaske ... ket-maker/. You can get customer reviews by searching Google or just search for "anaerobic" in this forum search. You can get it at most automotive stores.

[Bullfrog]

That's the stuff. (thanks for posting the link Bill).
Ed

[---]

Vic,

The crank case wall and the crank weights are in very close proximity when together. It is common for any excess sealant to press out into this area just as it does toward the outside. I would hesitate to skimp on sealant in this area due to the high pressure and heat. Instead, use sparingly but cover completely, and then when you assemble the cases and snug the screws, rotate the crank 180 and wipe off while it is still wet any sealant that is picked up by the crank. Rotate again and look for any other excess. Once you can rotate the crank and it comes up clean, then you can set it aside to cure.

The rebuild instructions for my RD describe this same process. It is simply assumed that there will be some excess no matter what you do because the parts are machined and screwed together tightly. There is so little sealant left between the case halves that it would be difficult to seal adequately with so little product that you have no squeeze out. So just clean it while it is still soft and don't worry about it. Yamabond stays flexible anyway, and if a drip is touching, it won't be shortly after you start the engine. You just don't really want a whole bunch floating around in the combustion chamber, if you wipe the crank weights, there won't be an issue.

I use acetone and a shop cloth to wipe the bond away, on the crank and on the outside of the cases.

[viclioce]

Wow! Sure wish this had been posted before I bought the Yamabond. I like the "easily removed with a putty knife feature!

Greg, thanks for the tip about the acetone. I may have some but if I don't I'll get more.

I have to spend today & tomorrow packing & preparing for leaving. Leaving on Thursday morning for Reno, Lake Tahoe & Northwrn CA! ; D Victor

[---]

Far as I know, other solvents will work on wet Yamabond also. Lacquer thinner (which has acetone in it, as well as toluene, xylene, MEK, and a couple other similar ingredient so) will work, as would any of the ingredients listed in the thinner if you have those around. MEK is especially handy at removing things, just don't let it soak into your skin.

[viclioce]

OK! Thanks! I hope it works on dry Yamabond too! ; D Victor

[---]

It does.

[RichardMott]

I can handle the odor of most aromatic solvents, but MEK is one I cannot. I was a spray painter for 10 years. I have never have a bad reaction to any of the solvents I used except for MEK. Bad stuff in my book.

And no wise cracks about my brain being affected! I know it has, but I was hoping no one noticed. Heh heh.

Drain bramaged for sure.