The Road Toad Starts Today!

[bchappy]

I only have the model 03 that has a battery and my model 95 and 97 does not have one. So, I have not tried connecting more than one.

[viclioce]

OK. Well I guess I can still try it. Shouldn't matter whether it's a 6 or 12 volt battery. Should still work the same way. ; D Victor

[viclioce]

Not much new to report. I've been busy working on other things. Substitute teaching has kept me out of the garage. I'm ready to lay down the color on the green painted pieces now. Hoping to get that done soon. I have to work 3 days next week too! But I'll get there and post pics as soon as I have them! ; D Victor

[matt glascock]

I scored a 6/12V tender at a Farm Fleet store here. I pull the batteries out of the bikes, top off the cells, and simply rotate the tender from one to the next every 2 or 3 days. I cant aver that this is correct or proper but some half-hearted research has turned up nothing to the contrary and they appear to be well-maintained by the spring. For my winter riders ('68 Ace 100 and '75 Road Toad) I've rigged up a jumper set-up that allows me to attach a maintainer to the battery without the need for disassembly. Its really a simple set up. I just spliced in 5 inch red and black wires to the leads off the battery and keep them capped and secured with zips. When time to attach to the charger, remove the caps, connect the maintainer, and PRESTO, happy battery. Make sure the battery vent tube is patent and routed properly. I've not seen any overflow but best to be safe than sorry. Max, I'm no spring chicken either. Semichrome is a great compound and has been around since the beginning of time. Its amazing what can be brought back with it, some double 0 steel wool, and a little elbow grease. Most Harley shops stock it in toothpaste-like tubes or tubs. Its also available on sites like Amazon. Perhaps Paul would consider stocking it on SH. Its really good stuff.

Best,

Matt

[taber hodaka]

I am using some commercial batteries that were put into service in 1980 and still working. Make sure you use distilled water and do not overcharge them. -------------Clarence

[viclioce]

OK. I passed off the tins to my son in law's cousin. He painted the tank and air cleaner cover of the Wombat for me. I just couldn't see myself spraying that green paint with my pancake compressor in my garage with 5 other bikes in there. He has a spray booth and they can hang & dry so it's worth it to me. I should have them back on Tuesday or Wednesday! The decals had some minor errors which we didn't catch initially and the guy who made them for me redid the ones which needed fixing yesterday! Going to swap out tire's while I wait for the paint. I had to teach most of last week so I didn't get anything else done. ; D Victor

[---]

You have a contact that makes decals like those in the photos??? If so, they apparently do one-off requests of quality. I didn't see any errors.

[viclioce]

Tank before stripping paint

He actually shot my tank, battery cover and air cleaner before I stripped them and then used his computer software to clean up the "art work!" The tins are being painted now. We will mount the decals and I will shoot pics to post when they are applied. This was my tank before stripping it. ; D Victor

[Bill2001]

I'll third Simichrome. Every bike shop used to sell it but now that HondaYamaZuki have their store-brand polishes it's harder to find. Worth looking for. Simichrome leaves a protective coating that wards off tarnish for a few months. Another good thing to keep the polish is a good coat to auto paste wax/polish.

--Bill

[viclioce]

Got the carb all cleaned up and repainted today. It did not have a main jet in it. It also had a size 40 pilot jet in it. The original specs call for a size 30 pilot jet. Since the 40 pilot was too big for my Wombat with the Super Rat carb, I'm assuming the 40 pilot will also be to big for my Road Toad carb. I have a size 30 pilot on the way.

The original specs also called for a 160 main jet. However, since there was no main jet in the carb, I decided to start with the 150 because of my elevation. I also have a 140 I can drop down to, if needed. Hoping I don't have to go any smaller than a 140 main with the 30 pilot. Sticking with the original slide, needle and air screw as well.

The reeds look very good. They sit closed with all the edges flat against the frame, no cracks or chips or waves in the reeds. Slide is also in great shape and it moves smoothly through the carb, with no hanging. Here's a photo of it all put together! ; D Victor

[---]

Terry cloth photo booth. Fancy stuff. Don't get gas on your nice paint job...

[viclioce]

Awe Greg! You noticed! LOL!!! Should get the tins back tomorrow.

Going to split the cases. Need to order bottom end rebuild kit. Just want to look at it first and make sure it needs it. The motor is low mileage. Don't know if I can get away with splitting the case and not doing the rebuild. Probably will do it any way..... ; D Victor

[viclioce]

OK! I finally got the clutch nut loose with my son in law's impact driver and got the cases split open! Shifter ball bearings went everywhere! Got them all though!

From what I can see, the right side crank bearing and seal look good. This motor doesn't have a lot of miles on it (less than 1,000).

But the left crank bearing is seized up hard. Looks like rust got to it. Pulled the left side seal but I can't tap the bearing out. Usable advise to get the left bearing removed from the left side casing would be appreciated.

Also the left rear bearing (shifter shaft) moves smoothly but the outer seal looks like it might weep.

Kick shaft and bearing retainer as well as the secondary shaft and inner spring assembly look good, as do all the gears. They are very clean and no scratches or chips. Bottom end seemed to stay well lubricated. And the main shaft bushing looks very healthy as well. I could probably just replace the left crank bearing & seal, but I'll do them all since the case is split. Crank and rod look fine and no need to do anything with these other than clean, lube and reassemble.

So, if anyone can share some tips/secrets on getting the crank bearings out, I'd appreciate it. I already tried a drift and rubber mallet but it didn't move at all. ; D Victor

I was a bit surprised by all the needle bearings underneath the clutch bushing, but I captured them all and have them in a very small zip lock bag. ; D Victor

[Bullfrog]

heat the case to "spit sizzle" temp then drive the bearing out with a serious hammer - rubber hammer soft striking is not helpful, nor required for this operation.

I'd recommend planning for all ball bearing removals from the cases to use the "spit sizzle" (Hot enough cause water to sizzle on contact) heating method since it reduces the pressures required to remove the bearing . . . and plan for reinstalling the new bearings while the case is hot (pre-freeze the bearings and they'll go in with a minimum of pressure). NO pressure should be applied to the inner race when installing the new bearing.
Ed

[hodakamax]

Victor, to remove the crank bearings you'll need to heat up the bosses around the bearing with a small propane torch. Keep the flame off the bearing. The case will get slightly bigger and you should be able to tap it out. I use a socket close to the size of the bearing and a real hammer and block of wood. As for all the loose needle bearings on the clutch, you can order a new caged assembly that makes all that easier.

Max

Oops, I see Ed has the same advice and more...

[viclioce]

OK guys! I'll pull out the propane torch and heat the cases. Should I wait until I have all the new parts here, as I haven't ordered them yet. I was waiting to see what kind of shape things were in before ordering. I'll be ordering a bottom end kit now with new casing screws as well, as two of the screw heads stripped with the impact driver. I was able to match one but not both. ; D Victor

[viclioce]

Another question. I guess I should hear up the bearing bosses from the outside of the case and then knock them through. Is that correct? Seems I remember everything being easier last time when I did the Model 94 bottom end.

And Max, are you saying Paul has a caged set of needle bearings for the clutch bushing so I don't have to use the old loose needles? That would be good to get, thanks! ; D Victor

[viclioce]

Paul! Is this the caged needle bearing for the clutch bushing on the Model 99 Road Toad? I ask because there is no picture. Just want to be sure. I have the loose needle bearings. ; D Victor

57 - ITEM # / FIG. B - HODAKA PART #994016 - BEARING - NEEDLE ROLLER

[Dale]

Is the installation of the loose bearings the concern? If so, it shouldn't be. Run a coating of grease around the shaft and start counting as you stick them in place. It is much easier than one might think when you first see them.

[viclioce]

So Dale. The bearings go on the crank shaft and then the bushing goes on top of them, correct? I had the same idea about using a little grease to hold them in place during installation. Just want to make sure I have the placement right! ; D Victor

[---]

Can't hardly put it together wrong in the way you ask. Trial fit everything. Where the needles go will be self evident. Loose bearings are always assembled with either grease or assembly lube to hold them in place. Like the loose balls in the steering head. Any grease you use in the crankcase will quickly be displaced with warm engine oil.

[viclioce]

Here's a photo of the crank on the side where the bearing had seized. Does anyone besides me think there is evidence of heat build up? ; / Victor

[dirty_rat]

Hard to tell just from the picture, but it could be caused by heat build-up (that would cause the oil from the pre-mix to burn onto the crank). It could also be caused by something finding it's way into the bottom end (such as dirty water, which could have also caused the bearing to seize up). Hard to tell apart with just a photo.

[---]

I was hoping it was just rust. If the crank got hot enough to coke up with oil, the lower bearing is suspect.

[viclioce]

Well Greg, the left crank bearing is seized up. It looks like rust may be the suspect, but the bearing won't spin at all. So I'm thinking this is burnt on oil from the left crank shaft overheating, since the bearing wouldn't move.

Replacing all bearings, seals and center screws for the bottom end. I have the order sitting in my shopping cart now. Just making sure I don't need anything else so I keep shipping costs down. : D Victor