125 Flywheel puller doesn't work on 100 motors

[viclioce]

Much to my big surprise! There are So many things on the Hodakas which are interchangeable. Why couldn't the flywheel puller be? Guess I'm glad the flywheel was already off on the Road Toad.

Going to have to pull the flywheel on the Ace soon too, because the kick start doesn't always grab. I'm guessing it's the kick shaft beating retainer. If I kick the start lever "gently" the motor will turn over. But, if I kick it too hard, the lever just bottoms out without turning the motor over. I already made sure it wasn't a loose kick lever on the kick shaft.

Thankfully, I have an extra entire 100 kick shaft assembly with which I can change out parts. As long as my spare bearings are good! So, time to order some case sealant! ; D Victor

[Dale]

Double check that puller. I use the same puller for all my flywheels.

[viclioce]

I've tried over and over. I thought I was jet not getting it lined up at first. But I can not get it to thread into the Road Toad flywheel. Unless there is some damage to the threads on this one flywheel? Hmmmm. Maybe I'll try it on the other Road Toad bottom end/flywheel & see. Thanks! ; D Victor

[rtboone]

Greetings Victor

I have a puller that works on both the Ace and RT flywheels.
The puller has a left handed thread, so try turning it to the left to screw it in.

Tom

[viclioce]

Tom. Well, DUH! That was it! Forgot I was left hand threads! Whew! Guess I need to use this thing more often! Thanks! ; D Victor

[viclioce]

Well besides trying to turn it the wrong way, turns out one of the flywheels has rusted and stripped interior threads. I could only screw it in 2 revolutions. It would need to be threaded again before this other fly wheel is usable. ; D Victor.

[Bill2001]

I made the same "mistake" using the flywheel puller-- didn't know that it was a LH thread. You'll probably need to get (or fabricate) a puller with arms thin enough to fit in the two slots in the f'wheel. Even then I'd expect that a hard pull will distort the f'wheel bell so it'd be a last resort measure to remove a bad part.

--Bill

[hodakamax]

Guys, you might try one more time with your puller. I've seen some rough and rusty inner threads in my career and you can usually save them with penetrating oil, small wire brushes and persistence. Don't force anything and keep backing out the puller when you feel too much resistance. Maybe you've tried all that but I personally have not failed on any that I can remember. C'mon, one more shot.

Max

OK, I give you a 50/50 chance that you can make it work.

[viclioce]

Max. The one I'm talking about is on a second RT bottom end I have. It doen't have any of the crank nuts or washers either. The whole thing has sat, I assume, without a cover on it so long that it has rusted together. The threads appear to be peeling out with attempts to thread the puller on, so they don't have much strength left. I will give it a go with the PB Blaster and a small wire brush. It would be nice to split this one for parts if needed. ; D Victor

[olddogs]

The threads are already toast, and you wont be reusing the flywheel, so weld a large nut ( 5/8ths or larger) to the flywheel and use a standard bolt to push on the end of the crank. I like to get the bolt tight and then a sharp whack the head of the bolt. Shock and vibration is sometimes what is needed. Don't whack on the flywheel or you can bend the crank end, but tapping and patience can sometimes pay off.

[viclioce]

OK I'll give it a try! ; D Victor