Problem disassembling 938750 fork

[ossa95d]

Just a thought. Since you had such a problem getting the old seal out, is it possible that the metal outer band from the old seal is still in the nut? This would explain the difficulty in installing the new seal.
Ivan

[Rusty]

Sir that is good question as I have never done this. I do think it's odd that there is a little lip or ridge where you would put the seal in. You may be right???? I don't know. It's a shame I'm ruining parts in the process they are not cheap. Not to mention I accidentally left my manual at the motorcycle sale!!!!! I will investigate this query. Anyone have a pic of an old one.

[Zyx]

Regarding the lip, my recollection is that there is no lip or step in the exact area where the seal will reside when fully seated. If you cooked out the old seals and those bits and pieces did not include a metal ring about a quarter inch wide and as big around as the inside of the fork nut, the metal body of the seal may well still be in place. If so, perhaps the best way to get it out will be to drive a pick, like an ice pick or really fine screw driver that you don't need to protect, into the "gap" between ring and nut, and pry the band away from the nut. Once lifted a bit, you can get a more substantial device in the gap and bend them out. If you do this, do not scar the fork nut. Do it carefully.

As for new versus old style, fork seals of yore were rubber or synthetic over a steel band. Generally, the steel band was exposed on the outer perimeter of the seal. These seals are driven into place using lube between seal and fork nut. The ones currently in use as far as I know have no metal body, exposed or otherwise. Yes, all such oil seals have an expander spring under the rubber seal lip, which is vital to a good seal. The new seals have a synthetic body that is fairly stiff, but will be able to be flexed with your fingers if you pinch the round seal into a slight oval. In other words, they will feel somewhat springy if you squeeze from side to side. Steel body seals do not flex when squeezed side to side. The old style seal is technically a TB4 seal. The new style are TCL seals. Either seal comes in various sizes. The designation refers to profile and build, not size or application. This information is available in the Internet.

If the new seals are installed with lube between seal and steel, they will pump back out in short order, so install them dry, which frankly isn't easy. Perhaps you can lube with alcohol, but if you use anything, it has to either dry to a glue like residue, or evaporate completely. If it remains slippery, the seals won't stay put. If there was a retainer snap ring, it would not matter, and probably, these new seals are truly intended for applications with a retainer snap ring, which Hodaka did not use. The old seals didn't need retainers, as you have discovered.

A seal driver is any device intended to be used to drive a seal into its seat without damage to the seal. If you have a large enough vice, you can use a vice to slowly and squarely drive a seal into the nut rather than hammer them in, but you still need something to rest squarely around the perimeter of the seal to apply even force when installing. A socket of the right size, a PVC or ABS pipe slice, a tool made for the job, whatever. The idea is to apply even force without damage. Banging them in with a hammer can be done, but is most likely to cause damage.

You are learning why many folks use professional mechanics for certain jobs. Not that changing seals can't be done at home, but it can be a challenge.

[Rusty]

Live and learn... Thanks for all the help. That's what happened the metal ring was still in there. Hell I didn't know! I was going by what the seal I had looked like. I will put it back together tomorrow. Since I lost my manual! Can someone tell me the amount of oil? I think I can figured out how it goes together from the exploded diagram, I think. The to the stuck spacer... Thanks again. I hope this helps a novice in the future.

[Dale]

6 oz each.

Glad you got the seal figured out. Fun stuff huh? It will make your rides a bit more rewarding I think...

[ossa95d]

That's awesome! Glad I could help, sometimes I get lucky.
Ivan

[Rusty]

Hope this is my last question on this subject. Since I don't have my manual and the other fork is stuck. I'm trying to reassemble. My logic is, inner tube: white spacer goes over it with the cut outs facing down, metal spacer with lip facing up, then the seal nut. Out tube: piston thingy, spring, spring washer, long spacer, cap nut. Only thing I'm not certain on is the orientation of the white spacer. Thanks!

[Dale]

Rusty, I think you have it except for the nylon bushing. It goes over the inner tube with the cutouts towards the top.

[Rusty]

Thanks! That's the one thing I wasn't sure about. It had about a 1/4 inch discoloration around it. I thought it might have gotten there by the bottom of the outter fork. Guess not. Finally I can feel some sense of accomplishment. I have the other fork almost apart. The inner tube won't come out. I know the nylon bushing is still in there. That's the only thing. So I don't want to heat it too much. Looks like some water might of found its way into the fork. Thanks again almost there.