Flooding Carb

[Hal7885]

I have a wombat that continues to flood after repeated cleaning and many float adjustments. I can keep it running by opening and closing the fuel petcock in 20-30 sec intervals. Suggestions?

[BrianZ]

Sounds like you need a new carburetor float needle and seat. This is a fairly common problem.

Brian

[Zyx]

You can verify that the float valve is leaking by taking the bowl off and holding the float up by hand. When reasonable pressure does not stop the weepage you will have isolated the problem. Remove the parts and inspect closely. If light pitting or a wear groove is all you see, no cracks, you can sometimes repair the parts by lapping them against each other with lapping compound, brasso, or even toothpaste.

But, leaking float valve isn't the only common culprit. A float that has fluid in it won't float enough to work the valve so check these also if you have the soldered brass type float. If this is your problem report back for the method to repair brass floats.

[viclioce]

OK. Sounds like you either have a build up around your float needle, or you could have a leak in one or more of your floats.

Pull the carb off. Then unscrew the 4 screws holding the bottom of the float chamber in place. Make sure to empty all fuel out of the carb first tho. Then there is a pin which goes through the pivot for the floats. Push this pin out and the floats will drop free. There is a needle and a seat below the area where the pin holding the floats in place was. Pull the needle and check the tapered surface for wear rings or possible build up of some kind of sediment on it. It will likely look like a ring on the middle of the tapered needle point. Or there could be a circular scratch. If you see either of these, you should pull the float valve off, and order a new float needle and valve from Paul here at Strictly Hodaka. Be specific about the year and model of your bike and make sure your carb matches the one in the parts fiche picture. Order the replacement and install and reassemble the carb when it arrives.

While you're waiting for the needle and valve to arrive test your floats for leaking. Simply immerse them in some water and look for air bubbles. They could be quite small but check carefully. If you find one or more holes, you can patch the holes with solder. Get the float hot enough to melt the solder and work it onto the float in the location of the hole. You won't need a lot. If you don't find any holes in the floats great!

When you get the needle and float valve in the mail, use the shop manual to make sure the floats are closing off correctly and adjust them if needed. The manual says how to do this. Once you get the float level set you should be good to go! Holler if you need a page or two from the manual for this! I'll scan it and can email or post it for you! ; D Victor

[Zyx]

A brass float that has fuel inside it rarely leaks bubbles no matter how deep you put it under water. The question is not whether it bubbles, but whether you can hear something sloshing around inside. If it has a liquid inside you can bet it is gasoline. Simply soldering the hole isn't going to work, even if you can find it. Plus, most such leaks are usually cracks in a soldered joint line which are hard to spot.

Easiest way to find the leak is to warm the float, move it around side to side and upside down, and look for leakage coming out. That's your leak. You have to get the fluid out before you can fix it. If the float does not already have a seal hole, drill a small hole. Drain the gas. Let it dry completely in a warm spot. Solder the leak. Then solder the hole, but don't let the float get too hot or it will collapse when it cools.

A bit more complicated than looking for bubbles and floating a bit of solder around.