93A Port Timing.jpg This is from the Super Rat Workshop Manual Supplement. I expect the port dimensions are all taken from the top of the cylinder. The Dimensions Marked STANDARD are most likely the 'factory' target dimensions. I have ZERO idea what the tolerances might be. For a casting there can ...

Happy to have them.

Let me know how we can get them to me.

Thanks for your interest.

Regarding design: I think M6x1 male thread in Aluminum looks a bit fragile. If there's room in the case I'd be inclined to go with M8x1.25 If not room for M8, I'd go M7x1. If the Patch Stud gets broken it'd be pretty simple to remove with an easy-out. To avoid leaks I'd probably suggest coating thre...

Repair_Stud[1].jpg If this will help anyone it's free for the asking. Male thread too long? You could cut it down. Barrel too long? That too can be cut. This one's Aluminum. Want it in steel? I'll make one for you. If you have a case that you'd like fixed by this kind of method I will do all the wo...

I have half inch aluminum.

If I could get:

the length needed for the "barrel",

length of Male thread

and an agreement on M6x1

I'll turn a couple this week and mail them gratis to whomever can evaluate them.

(Means free)

Thank you for the photos.

I like the cylindrical example.

It looks like you've already made one of steel.

If so, are those male threads turned or cut with a die?

Thanks again.

If you would post a detailed sketch of what you think would do the job I'll try to make some.

Aluminum or steel.

Or some of each.

I'll give it a shot.

That's a nice fix.

But your idea about a Male- Female adapter is brilliant.

I just wish I'd have been sharp enough to figure out that idea.

Outstanding work!

Bit of a disappointment there.

But the challenge is there to replace what's bad & put it back together.

The tool I built for my Ace has a large end diameter of 5 mm give or take a few thousands of an inch. I don't know the size for later models, but I thought it was larger than 5mm. Isn't there a snap ring somewhere on the Ace that's the 'bigger' one? I'll try to remember. Senior moment here, but thou...

With time and money all things are possible. The 22 mm spigot adapter for $30 could be a start. Maybe a flange for the VM 22 could be milled and brazed on to the spigot mount with these new low temperature aluminum brazing rods from harbor freight or bernzomatic. OR..... a Hodaka reed manifold, skip...

The key here is the bolt "spacing". I believe THIS modern carb has spacing of 50mm. And is slotted for an 8 mm diameter bolt/threaded stud. As I recall the bolt spacing on the Ace manifold is 40 mm, and is using a 6mm diameter stud. Someone on this site said he'd worked up an adapter. But ...

What you show is the complete package. Mine came with the back end hack sawed off of the spark arrestor. Took me years to find the complete spark arrestor. You MAY get just a bit more muffle if you drill more holes in the necked down diameter of the "end piece". And perhaps wrap that necke...

It'd be helpful to have some diagrams with those instructions.

Bob, if you take this on, perhaps snap a few pictures. Especially where these dimensions are given.

Are these dimensions before and after cutting, or does one "cut and fit"?

Signed: puzzled in Ohio.

Excellent discussion here. I never, ever, thought about two possible places to install a main jet on a VM24. Took me several looks at the original post to understand the question. Far as the 180 main, I'm just plain chicken. I've locked mine up 'real good' with a 210. Smoked the piston & ring. W...

I believe I have removed the cylinder on my B+ without removing the bottom end.

It's a bit tight. I left the tank on.

That's my recollection. Give it a try.

Yes, the Magic Bullet for me was just as stated by Bullfrog: I'm guessing that Al is going to get back to us with what he found, but one of his posts strongly hinted that installing shims under the snap ring at the outer end of the foot change shaft (to limit end play of the foot change shaft) was t...

I found that the fifth gear position in the One Down Four Up mechanism is precarious. In fifth the ball shaped part is just barely contained within it's corresponding slot in the ratchet. If the ratchet can slide just a bit away from the ball then the correct contact is lost & the shift arm is l...

I stumbled into this problem in my almost never ending quest to switch my Ace to One Down Four Up. I found that the road to hell is indeed paved with good intentions. After sourcing good used parts from across the 48 contiguous states I wound up with an insurmountable failure of shifting from 5 to 4...

Good point you bring up here..... I missed it. IF the shift arm's movement in fifth gear position can be limited so the Ball doesn't wander too far outside its home slot you can shift back to forth. Once it goes past the "point of no return" you're stuck in fifth. There's not enough levera...

Lot of good leads for the poster of the original question.

His answer lies within.

Great puzzle, and an interesting pursuit for someone that wants to get a motor going again.

Does anyone know if a 24000 E code is an Ace engine?

Initial poster with question says it SHOULD be an Ace engine.

I sure don't know.

But if it's an Ace engine, why not put a set of Ace transmission gears in it & go that way?

Long shot here, really long shot......

Hodaka made a "close ratio" gear set that fit the Ace.

I have one, but it's in my engine now.

Maybe that's what you've got?

Maybe I'm on the wrong track, but the procedure for front wheel set up for best overall brake shoe setup went like this: Raise &secure front end of motorcycle Loosen axle nut & pinch bolt Pull brake lever to engage front brake & tie it in the engaged position so brakes stay on. Now tight...

Leave it in AC. I've never been sure what the reasoning for the DC option. Maybe to use the headlight for a flashlight when looking for your cork screw in the dark? Headlight and taillight work off the alternator. Brake light, speedo illustration bulb and horn work (primarily) off the battery. Least...