It doesn't appear to be a Hodie frame of any sort. No engine mounts. Nice British aluminum alloy tank. Looks like someone's "one off" project to marry a Hodaka engine with their favorite "this thing will handle like a dream when I get done" chassis.

Ed

I've been comfortable with "comfortably tight" - which is probably around 360 in-lbs or 30 ft-lbs. "Red-face, grunting tight" is not required or recommended.

Ed

I think the exterior of the head is the same for the Combat Wombat, Super Combat and Wombat 03.

Keep your temperature up - it is cold outside!

Ed

In addition, switching back and forth from 10 - 15% ethanol blends changes required jetting because the fuel characteristics change. The difference between non-ethanol fuel and ethanol blend fuel is greater and is significant enough to cause problems. I too recommend using non-ethanol fuel.

Ed

Out here near the center of the Hodaka universe (Athena) - there was a heavy frost this morning but the sky is clear blue and the sun is shining! Many family members are already here and I've already had a chance to play with Playdoh with grand-daughter Delaney! Thanks giving is quite in order! Have...

I had that same thought once Rich - but I really don't think oil injection was on the visible horizon when the ACE 100s were produced. That hole has been a Hodaka feature for a looooonnnnnggg time.

Jay's explanation makes the most sense to me - I'm going with that concept.

Ed

When you find out, let me know.

Ed

I've got to side with Bill on this one. If the internals are all properly positioned/installed - there is no way tightening the case screws will cause things to bind. In fact, you could over-torque the screws to the point of breaking . . . and the internals would still not bind up. If the transmissi...

Pappawheelie:

Perhaps the missing post is the one over in the Marketplace section?

Ed

I was partial to "X-11" as a "chisel it in yourself" frame or engine number when I worked for PABATCO. You will note that "4" is relatively easy to create with a cold chisel. (which has nothing to do with any imagined system for #4 production bikes being reserved for an...

It is working fine for me.

Ed

Two comments: - I'm a little worried about the ID of the silencer. Since it is aluminum, the tubing is probably somewhat thicker than would be expected on a steel silencer . . . and since it slides inside of the stinger on the pipe . . . which presumably had specifically selected stinger ID . . . yo...

Yo-ho-ho. Received mine in the mail a few days ago. Kewel Calendar! Very nice collection of Hodaka photos . . . both bikes and Hodaka folks on or with their bikes!

Ed

Hmmm, my memory of the Enduro/Cross Kit may be faulty on some of the details -- but here is a bit of information anyway. First of all, I'm thinking there might have been a bit of marketing, um, "sweetener" in the text on the box. As I recall, the major work on the porting was done on a mil...

I believe you have that right, oh Meditation Master.

Ed

. . . and to answer your third question. Hmmm, hard to say. In stock condition, with stock carb, the Road Toad cylinder would probably not produce more HP than a reed valved iron Super Rat cylinder (but it would probably be close). But it doesn't really matter, 'cuz you can't install the Toad cylind...

Perhaps some of the flack will be shifted to me . . . I too question some of the information about the bike. Perhaps some confusion comes from the fact that many production machines which came into Athena for use at PABATCO got modified and ridden by various employees. Did that make them "proto...

Mountain: Your procedures sound good. Hot soapy water scrub/wash helps assure that no metal or abrasive particles are left to wander around through the engine/gears/bearings/etc. Oil wipe down stops corrosion immediately after the soapy wash/thorough rinse and dry. Use the oil of your choice. ANY oi...

Here are my "two bits worth" on the topic. The initial question would be, "Why would you want to coat the inside of a tank which is not leaking? Which has lasted 40 years already and only has light rust?" For me, the answer is, "No. Don't do that." And, "Coating th...

Yee-Ha! I finally got with it and placed my order for the calendar! Gotta get a 2014 calendar in hand so I can start writing events in IN INK!

Ed

This may require some input from Hodaka Dave. . . . as I recall, the modification sheet was for forks which had a long steel bushing (which was to be shortened) but no plastic bushing (spacer, as you called it). The original lengths of those items and their modified lengths are important. And I can'...

. . . somewhere around 150-160 psi. You have several options - premium pump gas (Ethanol free) if you can find it easily, race fuel, race fuel/premium pump (non-ethanol) blend and yes, even aviation fuel. Though aviation fuel probably ought to be your last choice - it is designed to burn somewhat mo...

Well, my bike is a Wombat . . . depending on which part of the bike you are looking at. ;) http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q589/Bullfrog125/CWTaillight_3060.jpg With any luck, there is a photo above showing the tail light I've got. It does indeed have two bulbs, so brake light is an option. This...

If the outer faces of those "bushings" are not worn, I'd recommend leaving them in place and masking them off. This particular bushing is not a "wear" part. It press fits into the swing arm . . . and then when the swing arm bolt is tightened, the complete swing arm assembly (incl...

Nice post on proper safety wiring! Since I am "old school", "blue printing the clutch" means dressing the sharp burrs off the stamped steel plates so they won't gouge into the clutch cage . . . and dressing any gouges which have been dug into the teeth of the clutch cage. In the ...