Hot dang that was a good post Danny! If all goes as planned, there will be a scan of a page from the owner's manual in the middle of this post when I get done. http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q589/Bullfrog125/Wombat03oilPump.jpg IF the pump is working correctly, there are two ways for it deliver...

Semi-helpful reply coming as soon as I can squeeze in a bit of time with my scanner and the Wombat 03 Owner's Manual.

Bye for now,
Ed

I reached for the file cabinet to my right and dug out the Dirt Squirt and 99 Toad Illustrated Parts Lists to compare.

Ed

Yup, same rim 969207 -- 1.85X17"

Ed

;) Thank you sooo very much Bob for once again putting me in the position of saying, "Do what I say, not what I do."! ;) Yes, when working with control shaft components with the bike laid on its side, DO cover the surrounding area. You couldn't drop one of those circlips in one of those cr...

PS: Even 100B and early Rat Red would fade relatively quickly with prolonged sun exposure . . . which is surely where the "orange" memory comes from. (?)

Hodaka 100B's and Super Rats (toaster tank Rats) were Red (with a capital R). Dirt Squirts (toaster tank Squirts) came in with tomato soup red. None of them had orange frames.

Ed

While the "factory" position for the front brake backing plate is on the right side, the routing of the cable can be much improved by simply mounting things so the backing plate is on the left side. With the backing plate on the left, the cable has a more gentle bend to turn down to the hu...

Another variation on the idea is to use a short piece of white plastic plumbing pipe in the place of the socket.

Ed

Ah-Ha! I wondered why you would bring up the "original" brake lever. As for the re-worked brake lever, me-thinks you might place a different value on the term "utilitarian" than I do. I have to admit that I don't even remember what the re-worked brake lever looked like . . . whic...

I had no problem at all with the craftsmanship of your rear brake lever . . . but I certainly didn't describe it as "utilitarian" . . . since it was decidedly NOT utilitarian. I believe I described it as "un-safe". It required the rider to take his foot off the foot peg and move ...

Whaaaaaat? A buck, 29 - no drilling of structural frame components, no welding. End result is solid as a rock . . . and it worked fine for me in the mid-70's -- why not now??

Craftsmanship is in the eye of the beholder.

Ed

That's a nice pony you've got there, Pilgrim.

Ed

I would have used hose clamps . . . then there would be no need for drilling.

Ed

Yes, clutch side seal is properly installed when the "smooth" side is facing the crank.

Ed

I'm not where I can access my manuals, but memory says the proper starting ring end gap for a 125 is .006".

Ed

Um, what can I say

Ed

About the brakes. Front - You have to pay attention to two things when tightening things up. You have to be sure that the fork legs have "found" their properly aligned positioon parallel to each other - and you must not do anything to disturb that as the axle nut is tightened. AND you must...

Which is information developed and published about 40 years ago.

I'm on-board with Kelly. You can't go wrong with the BelRay gear oil. And I run it in all my Hodies.

Ed

Forrest:

You can take Dale's comments to the bank. He perfectly described the situation.

Ed

The crankshaft from model 99, 01 or 02 will work fine . . . unless I am forgetting some detail.

Ed

Nope. You are wayeee off on ignition timing. When the points are set with a gap of .012" - .014", the timing will be correct. (.021" just won't work)

Ed

My comment likely won't save you any money, but . . . you might do a bit of research on "vintage" riding boots. I've got a pair of all leather boots that look like they could have been made in the 1970's (except for the truly handy and fast "over-center" latch closure system), bu...

Hmmm, so I need to set the sensors and the auto-aim paint ball gun turret huh?

The Captain

Look out! He's already doing muscle poses!

Give him a tickle from the Captain, OK?

Ed