Way over thinking the whole idea. Go riding and clear your head.

You come at it at a slight angle, start the boot on the carb and roll the assembly into place, have the bolts ready to secure the backing plate to the frame.

Cable, take a pair of pliers, grip the cable as close to the pump arm as you can, rotate the cable till the cable itself is in line with the slot and pull, you my have to finess it a little, but it should come out. I've seen worse sprockets. And the piston is replaceable, just need to know if it nee...

Sorry, pull the air box off, mount the air boot and reinstall. Easiest for me.

If the previous owner was running pre-mix there must have been a reason. Figure out why and you'll know if you should or not.

Wood chisel is the best I have found, you just want to lift the edge up to be able to get under it to either pry it up or rotate it out. Don't shear it off or you'll be SOL. Good sharp edge is a must.

There should be no holes to the outside world. You should be able to fill the bowl like a cup and it holds fuel. If not something is missing. I don't have a carb to check so going by experience.

Welcome to the group, if you have any questions or concerns don't be afraid to ask, lots of info to be had here. What area of the country are you in? May be others in your area that can help or just to hang or ride with.

No matter how long you soak it and what you use, at some point a whack with a hammer will be needed. Even then you may have to drive it all the way out.

Paul Stannard at one time told me the 90 and 100 carbs are minimumly different, possibly the depth of the threads on the body so you have to have the correct cap for that carb.

Victor, did the pin arrive?

I will need a switch and key.

B+.

I was just checking to see if I needed the switch, it doesn't have one on it and the owner wants to be able to street it, so will need to charge battery. Hence I need the switch.

I thought so, thx for the confirmation.

Does the key switch need to be in the circuit in order for the charging system to function?

So by using the 5 plate clutch, could you uprate the assembly?

Ace 100. "P" prefix.

Turns out the whole kichstart is shot, short of the piece that indexes in the case. Turns out I can use the counter shaft assembly in a Rat motor that someone welded the sprocket to the shaft. Maybe the only plus out of that motor. The crank needs a rebuild, and I may salvage the cylinder. Not much ...

Are harnesses available? Need one for a B+. I actually need all the wires replaced. Be nice to gut it and start over.

Yep if it stands the hair up you have spark. Now you need to have compression and fuel. Have you done a compression check? Cheap tool available at Harbor freight. Will pay for itself quick. You want to hold the throttle wide open and kick till the needle stops going up, should hopefully be in the 15...

Around the school which is close to the park, lots of people bring their campers and RVS. No hook ups, but it can be done.

In most instances oil being drawn into the motor it's the right side crank seal, but in all circumstances you change both seals ( why not you're already in there). As for compression a good rule of thumb is you should be putting out 150lbs to be in the right. Race motor will produce more. You tried ...

Yep, if you didn't put in a new clutch side crank seal, you get to go back in. You also mention low compression, did you put in new rings on a fresh hone? New head gasket?

What did you do to repair the oil leak into the motor?