Roddy boy wrote: ↑Fri Apr 30, 2021 5:20 am If u are in Canada I have a complete bottom end for you. Ran it last year and all is good to go but seals are old

Just for my learning - why the Canada limitation? I’m not hip to the challenges - shipping to US outrageous or customs not cool with it or just a PITA you’d rather not deal with?

taber hodaka wrote: ↑Mon May 03, 2021 6:03 pm I am sure I would have a set of cases, if nobody else does I would not rebuild your cases unless they were to a 1936 henweigh. ------- Clarence

Appreciate the input. How might I connect with you regarding said cases? Feel free to PM or email me through the board.

Cheers,
Simon

I’m in San Francisco.

Ouch is right

If anyone knows a great case repair guy, definitely not opposed to trying. I figured they were shot!

Thanks again everyone!

I did see a post from Rich (racerclam) about doing case work. Doesn’t appear to be active anymore?

I’ll also post photo of the cases. I’m assuming they cannot be repaired based on where the damage is. Welcome feedback....

Sorry, should have mentioned that. I’m in SF Bay Area, California.

Thanks,
Simon

Hey everyone, Catastrophic engine failure here - both case halves are toast. Metal sheared and jammed between the crank and the case, cracked the cases. Damage was done quick :(. On the hunt for cases to rebuild the motor with. I don't see them available on hodaka-parts. I have an email into Terry, ...

Thanks for the suggestions 1) Regarding the exhaust, I have not cleaned it with any solvents, just visual inspection and it honestly didn't look that bad. I should probably do a cleaning. If you have any suggestions on how, I'd welcome them. 2) By intake, I just mean the gaskets, block and o-ring ar...

Model 94 Wombat that I'm still trying to get sorted. I'm close but I think my problem is my exhaust.... Two part question: 1) Does my diagnosis sound reasonable, 2) how do I get a good seal on a model 94 exhaust I'm not a 2 stroke expert at all....trying to learn Recently rebuilt motor - new seals, ...

I would also be in for a Model 94, no indicators.

-Simon

Bullfrog, That was my concern, that the nut shouldn't escape over the flared end of the pipe. The flared end certainly isn't even all around. like it was ground down or straightened in parts. I'll have to keep an eye on it to see if it works it's way out from the nut. As always, thanks for the input...

What is the proper stack for installing the exhaust pipe? I have a pipe that is slightly flared on the end, albeit unevenly. It mates fairly well with the exhaust port. I have an exhaust nut that with some wriggling will slide over the flared end onto the pipe. I have the exhaust gasket. Is the gask...

One odd side effect of my rebuild - I checked the free play on the clutch cover lever and it seems to have increased post rebuild. I can obviously add more spacers, but is there anything else i should be worried about related to this changing? Seems odd.

thanks,
Simon

Hey guys, Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. This rebuild has gone 100 times better with your help. I got the motor back together over the holiday weekend. Everything went very smoothly. I just got back in there today and everything holding great. I ran a pressure test and holding pressur...

I got the kick retainer today! Looks like I'm going to spend some of my memorial day weekend in the garage. Stoked. Do you guys have any tips for pressing in seals? Just thumbs? If they are tough to go in, will a drift do damage? Any lube before seating them? Bullfrog shared the service bulletin for...

I'll order the kick retainer 1) Preferred liquid gasket for the cases? I've used ThreeBond before on other motors, assume it works well here? 2) Any gasket sealer on gaskets? cylinder base gasket? 3) Head gasket isn't brass, so no annealing necessary. Any other treatment? Copper coat? Sealer? Thanks...

Thanks Bev got the washer/spacers all set according to the shop manual I'll take a closer look at the LH crank seal and the oil feed hole, I'm assuming this is why I've heard about needing some clearance on that side but haven't really inspected it. Have the bearings and seals for crank, main and co...

Hey all you pros out there, I've finally got some time to commence the actual build of the '72 wombat that I'm rebuilding and looking for any heads up advice or tips. Specifically, I'm most curious about crank seals. I didn't take a good picture of how they were seated when I split the cases - flush...

Ok, thanks for all the input guys.

@Roger - There is indeed a +6 stamped on the cylinder deck. No clue what either mean.

@Jack - is that a 20 over (.5mm) piston or is it a standard issue 56mm?

-Simon

Thanks Roger!

rlkarren wrote:I've seen this a few times. It's a standard size piston. The stamping is 6.5, and as I've understood, somehow corresponds with the number stamped on the cylinder deck that is usually preceded with a "+" that is equally mysterious.

Roger

Even looking at it in person, I can convince myself it reads 0.5, 6.5 or C.5

If the piston was even 10 over, let alone 20 (.5 mm) as it appears it COULD read, it's safe to say the piston would measure +56 mm, yes? Is it safe to think this is a "standard" size piston?

Thanks

A caliper to the outside of the piston reads about 55.92-55.94 at the skirt. I don't have a screw gauge, just calipers.

I've got a 94 Wombat that I'm working through a rebuild on. I don't know the history of the bike. I cleaned the carbon deposits off the top of the piston and revealed this stamp. Anyone recognize this? I expected to see no stamp or something indicating 10 or 20 over, etc. It's a Hodaka branded pisto...