Ed, The wandering discussion of clutch dynamics is more esoteric than case specific, and if this has caused the OP any discomfort, I apologize. My thinking is that knowledge is useful in itself, and that the collective is wiser than the individual. The more someone understands about how things work,...

F7E engine numbers sound like Kawasaki. Transplanted engine?

Without reading everything I wrote, I think what I said was the modified piston would not work in a piston port engine (which is what a "standard" 100B is). But it will work fine in a reed valve induction engine, since that is what it was made to do. Once you decide which way to go, piston...

X 2 on the K&N. Do not use without a foam prefilter. But if the question is whether such filters will fit your bike, the answer is yes. I would use a UNI foam filter.

I agree that if Hodaka wanted a torque value -- other than standard value for size and class of bolt -- Hodaka would have listed it. Protocol suggests that if no value is stated, torque value is standard. There are other variables, such as proof load of the nut or item secured, but we don't have dat...

The screws are 5mm x 0.8mm and the aluminum cover threads are about a quarter inch deep, so there is a fair amount of meat there to use. There is, or should be, a standard torque value for this size screw, which I would have to look up, but since the screws are Phillips or some Japanese variation th...

Not sure why you would sell the 24mm Mikuni. It is a very good carburetor and easy to tune, plus it will give you more power all around on a reed valved engine. It isn't necessary to do port modifications to use reeds, it is only necessary to have a modified piston, which you have. As long as it fit...

Looks like a 24mm Super Rat carb. The 20mm was two holes but not slotted, just two holes. The 24 was slotted. Measure the engine side of the carb throat and see. A 24 will work just fine for a reeded 100.

It is easier to see the parts involved in the later design if you look at the model 98 diagram instead of the model 97 diagram. Both frames are the same as far as I know, and both bikes use a clamp on the left (but I think all of the 97's used a clamp, just had a different shaft/bushing arrangement)...

Good point. Reading too many threads in the same day. If the clutch won't release it could be the bushing. Length isn't really relevant. If the bushing has been compressed you will see galling on the running surface. If it is minor you can dress the bushing with W/D paper. Otherwise, just replace it...

You can paint them if you wish, but I don't believe the original center cases were even clear coated, just bare metal.

I don't see how the pinion bushing would cause slippage. There are other things that cause slippage. Wrong plate count for the clutch cage being used, binding of the steel plates on the cage, clutch screws not adequately tightened, worn out clutch springs or using single springs instead of double sp...

A stud remover would work also. I like a little more bite than a nut, I cut a head nut in half and use that half along with a normal head nut, it gives me a little more surface area for extraction, I think a single nut could strip easy. I do not thread chase these as I like them tight, as long as t...

I was under the impression that the swing arm bolt is a headless, double ended shaft and that both ends have nuts. Because of the grease nipple, you may want to use a deep well socket on that side, or carefully remove the grease nipple in order to use a regular socket.

I usually use a double nut arrangement to extract studs. What most folks call a jam nut arrangement. You may not want to use the actual head retaining nuts for this, but instead, use two common metric nuts if you have them, or buy a few from the hardware to use. Install two nuts half way down the th...

I don't think Rich is trying to be vague. The piston you have is usable in the new (or unpainted anyway) cylinder. Assuming you have a reed setup that fits the two bolt intake, you have all parts needed. Does the Wiseco fit the bore in that new cylinder? If so, you have what you need. What Rich is s...

Is there a way to repair stripped aluminum threads? Yes, but what needs doing depends entirely on how damaged the threads are. I would not force a stud into a suspect hole without first looking closely at the threads. Screw threads on studs or bolts are not designed to cut or repair damaged threads ...

Neither cylinder is from an 01 Dirt Squirt for sure. Both have screw in exhaust nut and two stud intake. The 01 was reed valve from the factory, three bolt exhaust flange and four bolt intake. Personally, I don't know which of the early 100's had a solid bottom fin as shown. Measuring port heights o...

Matt, I have no reason to think they are different in any way from the cores used for winding lighting or ignition coils. Try one and see. It could be either entertaining, educational, or very frustrating, depending on how you view winding wire around a core. Will need some winding shields, but thei...

All the parts left after someone took off steel fenders, lights and battery anyway. Sufficient for a trail bike, and that's where most of them end up anyway.

You can always ask Paul. Or, someone here on the forum might want to swap with you.

Stripped threads would be a problem. Is it the stud that is stripped, or the aluminum engine block?

The stamp is normal. Clean mating surfaces and use one head gasket on reassembly. Aluminum head gaskets can be reused but require annealing first. There has been discussion on the forum on how to anneal head gaskets. All else fails buy a new one. Can't imagine why someone would use two unless the ro...

If your question is whether the reed valve modified piston can be used in a standard 100B piston port cylinder, or an original non-reed Dirt Squirt cylinder without adding reeds to either one, the answer is no. Without reeds to stop the back flow of pressure through the holes in the piston, the bike...

Post a photo if you can. It helps to see what you are looking at. But, there shouldn't be any dark oily stuff on the top fins of the cylinder. I am assuming you mean the topmost fin of the barrel, under the head. Probably a leak. Has it failed? If it is leaking, arguably it has failed. It may not ye...