Here's the Hornady cleaner:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/817430 ... eaner-110v

I'm in the process of disassembling, cleaning and re-jetting the carb on my 99 Road Toad to the 02 Toad specs and I'd like to do a good job cleaning out the carb. With every removable component removed from the carb body and the float bowl, I was planning on soaking these two parts in some sort of c...

I like the idea of the "cooling holes" Doug! For some reason though, I'm able to click on and enlarge the first two images in your post, but not the bottom two. I tried different browsers and nothing seems to work. I'm just trying to get a better view of the image with the two yellow arrow...

Great. Thanks again for the detailed explanation and for the reinstallation tips!

Bullfrog...you're a tutoring genius! ;) I'm sitting here in front of the computer holding the shifter case and it pretty much all makes sense to me now. When part 38 is sitting such that the small "nub" at the top of it is making contact with the neutral light switch, part 43 (the small pl...

Thanks Ed! I had actually purchased some marine boat trailer grease that I used when I repacked the wheel bearings, so this should work great then. I think if I had a better idea of just exactly how all those components in the shifter case interact with each other, I'd have an even better idea of wh...

I know...I know...it would be with great risk that I might ask a question about the "best" or most recommended chemicals to use in my bike. I'm also a member of a few other vehicle forums after all...and I know how that could end up! ;) BUT....I do have a serious question. If Hodaka recomm...

Thank you sir for the information and help!

Thank you VERY much for this detailed information Bullfrog! I knew I had read something about this in various other posts, but it really drives the point home when you see it in a factory service bulletin.

Thank you Danny and Max! Danny...do you happen to know if the seals sold by Strictly Hodaka are 5mm or 7mm? I don't see any specs on the seal when I look at the description on their website. If they are the 7mm, can you suggest a good source to pick up a 5mm version?

Thanks guys! Just a few more questions though: 1. Is there still the issue with not inserting the seal in until it is flush, due to the blocking off of some oil orifice in the crank if you do so? 2. Is the method of installing it simply to tap it in with a socket the same size as the seal? 3. Any ty...

I'm hoping Dale Dvorak chimes in, as in many of his posts on the topic, he states that it is not that hard of a job...and that you will need a "puller". I wasn't sure if he meant a puller for the seal itself or for some other part (flywheel?) that needs to be removed to get to the seal.

Hi all - I've read quite a bit about the impending left side crank seal failure that my (and apparently all) Hodaka(s) will suffer at some point. In my case, it's a model 99 Road Toad with barely over 1000 miles, but a lot of sitting stationary over 41+ years. I've read numerous posts here about how...

Thanks thrownchain...that's what I'll do.

Hey guys - Just a quick question...I ordered a +.50 Wiseco piston kit and received it yesterday. The piston was stamped with "51.25 mm" on the dome, but the bag with the rings in it was labeled, "51.50 mm ring set." Is it normal for the rings to be .25 mm larger than the piston, ...

Thanks Max! I'll take the measurement when my new piston kit arrives and go from there.

It's my understanding that the Wiseco piston kits sold on Strictly Hodaka are made exclusively for S.H. and are not for sale directly from Wiseco. That said, in terms of piston ring end gap, is the info found on Wiseco's website under the FAQ section all I need to adhere to? (below) "Wiseco 2-c...

Just ordered one of these this morning: http://www.ebay.com/itm/311663463696?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'll put a little radius on the edge like Danny suggested and then hand it off to the cylinder bore pro when I drop it off. I feel more comfortable in using the...

Thanks Max. Yeah...the only reason I'm letting the person doing the boring do the exhaust port bridge is because he's well aware of the issue from working on 2 strokes "back in the day". I also gave him the printout you provided above so he knows exactly how it has to be done. I'm with you...

Just to be clear...the photo of the cylinder above is NOT mine (I'm the originator of this thread). And yes...since I now need a new piston and cylinder bore anyway, I plan on having the exhaust port work done by someone with far more knowledge about it than myself as well. There's no way I want to ...

Thanks Zeek!

I think I can see now why it was recommended to use the stone versus any type of power tool and to do this very slowly, lightly and methodically. I was going to do mine today but upon removing the cylinder I found scoring on both the piston and cylinder. Looks like at least one of the rings was stic...

Thank you all very much for the help! All the tips are much appreciated.

Well...it looks so far like the original stone method is the choice of the experts. I do have a few questions regarding this method though. First, where exactly can I find such a tool (stone)? I was somewhat hoping I'd see them on the SH website under the "Tools" section. :) I get the impr...

I've been reading as many posts here as I can since acquiring my '75 model 99 Road Toad about a month ago. It's exactly like the one my dad bought for me as a kid, so I'm in the process of doing all the "restoration" work I can right now. I've seen several posts relating to "relieving...