Well, several years ago I ran the bike at sea level with a #210 main jet & a #40 pilot jet. This was the carb tuning when I lived in Bend, OR (elevation 3,600 feet). The engine seized within a mile. I don't know if the #220 main that I am running now will also be too lean.

OK, I might be able to wrap up this thread (fingers crossed). I reinstalled the #40 pilot jet & reset the pilot air screw which seemed "best" at 1 1/2 turns out. So far, so good. With the needle clip on the 3rd notch, I ran the bike. After about 20 minutes of running at various throttl...

Well, I just got home from running the bike with the #40 pilot jet. Acceleration seemed "heavy" from 1/4/ to 1/2 throttle. From 1/2 to full throttle, acceleration was better, but seemed to slightly surge. Within a couple of miles, the engine simply bogged down at all throttle settings &...

Sounds reasonable. Besides, do you really think that a guy who installed the wrong pilot jet is gonna argue with a guy who has more experience with tuning Hodakas than most people on the planet!!!! Duh!

Kit

Greetings, All I just returned from several weeks in Alaska. I had a chance to spend some time at the various locales that were familiar when I lived there. Had some incredible fishing & spent some time cavorting with the brown bears at the fishing holes. But back to the business at hand. As I w...

Thanks, Ed. We are on the same page: to me, a "turn" is a 360-degree revolution & a "flat" is 180 degrees. So, looks like I will try a #35 pilot jet. However, I am leaving for Alaska tomorrow so further work will likely be delayed until mid-September.

I just finished adjusting the pilot air screw using El Capitan's technique. Now I must admit that I found this to be somewhat of an exercise in subtlety. Within a range of about 1 1/2 turns, I found it difficult to discern any change in engine speed. Having a chainsaw tachometer designed for 2-strok...

Ed:

Well-said! So, first I can set my desired idle speed (with the idle screw). And then turn the pilot air screw both left & right until I identify the fasting idle setting. Correct?

Thank you.

Kit

I spent a bit o' time today trying to set the pilot air screw as per the Hodaka manual. The procedure in the manual specifies adjusting the idle screw & the pilot air screw until the "desired idle speed is achieved". Does Hodaka recommend a specific idle speed? Or is the desired idle s...

Yes, the pilot air screw is set at 1.5 turns out. As a recall, I followed the procedure in the Hodaka manual as follows: Turn idle speed screw in until engine begins to run faster. Then back the screw out slowly until the engine runs slower & just starts to falter. Now turn pilot air screw in or...

Kit, I went back and found your previous posts regarding this motor. I had forgotten about them... So you have a Wombat but with a ported and reeded model 95 Combat Wombat motor? If correct, that explains the large jetting numbers. I also read where you had replaced the condenser to resolve an issu...

After replacing the piston & ring and honing the cylinder (by Dave Rozier), my conversations with Ed Chesnut resulted in the following specs: Main Jet: 230 (large; but erring on the side of caution) Pilot Jet: 40 Throttle Slide: 2.0 Jet Needle: 5F21 Needle Jet: 04 190 Float Valve Seat: 2.8 Air J...

First, let me say that I have had 4 piston seizures on my '73 Wombat. After much hand-wringing & considerable guidance from Ed Chesnut, maybe (fingers crossed!) I have this carb issue sorted out. However, last week I took the bike out for some final carb adjustments. Bike seemed to run fine on l...

Victor: That is exactly the technique that I use for tinning. But I appreciate you taking the time to outline the process. Since I seldom do any soldering, I must admit that more experience would result in a "cleaner" solder job.

Kit

Well, removal of the stator plate indicated solder touching the condenser shell. It appears that I found the no-spark culprit thanks to you guys. Rather than trying to unsolder the wires, I opted to simply order a new condenser. This way I can reroute the wires (again) & follow your suggestions ...

I'm not really being hard on myself. Logically it just makes a lot of sense to me. I find that sometimes I'm daydreaming about cocktail hour rather than dealing with the job at hand.

Point (no pun intended) well-taken. As a result of a couple of wires being too short prior to installing the new condenser, I lengthened them. However, I was a bit overcompensating on the length. If it turns out that some of the solder is indeed touching the shell of the condenser, I will re-solder....

Thanks, Ed, for the info. The routing of the wires does not interfere with the spinning of the flywheel. Today I will see whether the glob of solder oozed onto the shell of the condenser.

Matt & ddvorak: Good advice. As soon as I get a chance to get back into the garage tomorrow, I will follow up on your suggestions & report back. Thank you for taking the time to walk me through this. Admittedly, electrical issues are my "Achilles Heel" when it comes to troubleshoot...

Don't know if this photo might suggest a clue to the "no spark" issue. Thanks.

After completing some top-end work on my Wombat, I decided to rewire the stator plate since I was less than satisfied with the wire routing & soldering onto the condenser. In the process I installed a new condenser. Upon completion, I discovered that there was no spark to the spark plug. I reche...

Givergas: Thanks for the verification. That was exactly my reasoning, so I'm confident that the wire from the points is no grounding out.
But since my original post above was actually part of a bigger issue (namely, no spark), I will start a new post.

Thank you, everyone, for your help.

I would appreciate if someone could verify whether or not the placement of the "U"-shaped terminal in the above photo is in the correct place. If not, maybe the lack of spark could be a short to ground (?).

Thanks.

Kit

Ed, That sounds like something that I would do. However, I cannot seem to determine which other place in the "stack" that the U-terminal might be relocated. Hopefully I have properly attached the photo below to illustrate where the U-terminal is presently located. Thanks. Kit IMG_1342.JPG

Thanks, Roger. I was able to source some solid copper wire from Home Depot.

Now I just have to figure out why I am not getting any spark.