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Ignition
Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2023 12:16 am
by S.M.
Hello everybody.
Something wrong happened to my Wombat 03 engine. There is no longer any spark in the spark plug. What type of test should I do to find out the problem? Can I measure voltage or resistance at the coil input? Will it be the Magneto or the condensor?
What are the procedures for removing the flywheel for inspection?
Thanks in advance
Re: Ignition
Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2023 9:47 am
by S.M.
So I took some resistance measurements. 1-High voltage coil output = 5,200 k ohm 2- High voltage coil input = 3.0 ohm 3- Black and blue magnet wire = 1.7 ohm Do they seem like normal values?
Re: Ignition
Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2023 11:32 am
by S.M.
I've tried this technique and the spark works.
viewtopic.php?t=3655
Re: Ignition
Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2023 2:48 am
by dirty_rat
Here are the resistance values as stated in the Hodaka Workshop Manual.
Ignition coil primary winding (hook up ohm meter to the black and blue wire coming out of the ignition coil) 1.9 ohms +or- 10%.
Ignition coil secondary winding (hook up ohm meter to the blue wire and the spark plug lead) 4500-5700 ohms + or- 10%, so your values sound about right.
As far as removing your magneto, you need to use the proper magneto puller (call Terry at hodaka-parts.com to get one). Don't try to use a claw type as you will damage the magneto. Once removed you will be able to get a better look at your ignition system to see if everything looks okay or if something is defective, broken, come loose, etc. Let us know what you find
Re: Ignition
Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2023 4:04 am
by S.M.
dirty_rat wrote: ↑Sun Nov 19, 2023 2:48 am
Here are the resistance values as stated in the Hodaka Workshop Manual.
Ignition coil primary winding (hook up ohm meter to the black and blue wire coming out of the ignition coil) 1.9 ohms +or- 10%.
Ignition coil secondary winding (hook up ohm meter to the blue wire and the spark plug lead) 4500-5700 ohms + or- 10%, so your values sound about right.
As far as removing your magneto, you need to use the proper magneto puller (call Terry at hodaka-parts.com to get one). Don't try to use a claw type as you will damage the magneto. Once removed you will be able to get a better look at your ignition system to see if everything looks okay or if something is defective, broken, come loose, etc. Let us know what you find
Thanks you so much.
I'm seriously suspicious that it could be the points or the condenser.....next week I'll remove the flywheel to take a closer look. Thank you so much.
Re: Ignition
Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2023 3:42 am
by dirty_rat
While apart, make sure all wires are connected properly and none are shorted out. Check connections between all wires to ensure they are tight and not corroded (including ground wires and connections). Make sure the small insulators on the points are not broken (after 50 years they could break down and crumble). If points are showing a lot of pitting, chances are the condenser is bad.
Also, do you have a workshop manual? if so, it gives good directions on how to check most of the ignition components and values to look for in the testing.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Re: Ignition
Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2023 11:22 am
by viclioce
Condensers tend to work until they don’t. However, they can get old and then start failing intermittently as the engine heats up.
Make sure when you solder the wires to the condenser that you do not get solder spilling over to the outer cover of the condenser.
Victor
Re: Ignition
Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2023 3:30 pm
by taber hodaka
If with the Dale check method you are getting a very good spark the condenser is good. I can also check my points with the battery system. Clarence
Re: Ignition
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2023 10:11 am
by S.M.
Is that normal with the multimeter testing on condutivity buzz mode,having contact between the points with them open ?? The coil wires are disconnected.
Re: Ignition
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2023 2:40 pm
by S.M.
I think the condenser is on shortcut!.
Soon i will try another one 0.18 micro Faraday.
Re: Ignition
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2023 6:57 pm
by Dale
S.M. wrote: ↑Thu Nov 23, 2023 10:11 am
Is that normal with the multimeter testing on condutivity buzz mode,having contact between the points with them open ?? The coil wires are disconnected.
Yes, totally normal. Rotate the magneto and you will hear a change in tone when the points break.
Re: Ignition
Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2023 2:41 am
by S.M.
Hi guys.
Well yesterday i decided to connect the condenser to a external 5v DC power supply.....and now it works well and it measures 0.183 micro farads of capacity!.....quiet strange isn't it?
I connected it on the Magneto....adjust the points(more or less
) and the engine runs.....
Re: Ignition
Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2023 3:03 am
by ossa95d
Magically cured!
Re: Ignition
Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2023 9:37 am
by S.M.
ossa95d wrote: ↑Sat Nov 25, 2023 3:03 am
Magically cured!
Re: Ignition
Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2023 3:55 am
by dirty_rat
Just remember, some bad condensers can work until they heat up, then quit working properly. Once cooled down it will work again. Kind of like chasing a gremlin (not the AMC one).
Re: Ignition
Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2023 4:20 am
by givergas
Speaking of condensers I replaced one on my 94 wombat and it runs a lot better. is it me or would a new condenser make it run much smoother, it's under the tank now .....
Re: Ignition
Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2023 4:49 am
by Dale
givergas wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2023 4:20 am
Speaking of condensers I replaced one on my 94 wombat and it runs a lot better. is it me or would a new condenser make it run much smoother, it's under the tank now .....
Perhaps the work of relocating the condenser eliminated a poor connection. Of course, a shorted condenser will kill the spark so it stands to reason that a leaking condenser could weaken the spark. Fresh wires, connections and components are the way to go!
Re: Ignition
Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2023 3:20 pm
by Darrell
givergas wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2023 4:20 am
Speaking of condensers I replaced one on my 94 wombat and it runs a lot better. is it me or would a new condenser make it run much smoother, it's under the tank now .....
My 94 Wombat used to intermittently run grossly underpowered when the condenser was starting to go out. Wouldn't pull more the 25 mph on a Bad Rock ride, but still idled and ran smooth enough.
At next year's Bad Rock the condenser started heating up and going no-spark every few minutes. It would start and run again after cooling down. Repeat ad infinitum until I finally understood the condenser was fouled up -- and not the spark plugs.
Re: Ignition
Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2023 12:38 am
by givergas
thank you guys for helping me understand the condenser better . i will remember what dale said , fresh wires, connections and components are the way to go......albert
Re: Ignition
Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2023 5:11 pm
by viclioce
Albert. When I was younger, I had a Kawasaki F6 125. I was out riding one day and in a mid-air jump, the condenser died in me. I hit the ground & rolled to a stop with my clutch lever pulled in. I was about 2 miles from home and had to push the bike back to the house. Replaced the condenser & she fired right back up again!
Victor
) and the engine runs.....