New 250 kick lever install…
Posted: Wed May 03, 2023 1:32 pm
Obtained one of the newly modified kick levers Terry Larson had made for the 250’s & 175’s.
I can say it was a successful endeavor on Terry’s part! The lever fits the existing kick shaft. If I was going to rebuild the bottom end of this motor, I would strongly recommend installing the longer kick shaft during the rebuild.
Here’s what I had to do to mount it without pulling the motor out of the frame…
1. Remove bash plate. Drain oil and remove clutch
cover.
2. Remove right foot peg and mount assembly from frame.
3. Lock rear brake pedal in a depressed downward position with a screw driver in one of the holes. (Disconnecting brake rod from pedal recommended.)
4. Install new kicker spring & cover.
5. Using a pair of channel locks, rotate spring cover, to line up spring pin with hole on back of kick lever. I held it at about a 3:00 position.
6. Start kick lever on in a downward 6 O’clock position. This lines the hole up with the spring pin being held at the approximate 3:00 position.
7. Tap kick lever onto shaft aligning spring pin into hole. Make sure the spring cover is fully seated into the ring of the case.
8. Rotate kick lever counter clockwise to the 6:00 position to add tension to the return spring.
9. Holding kick lever at 6 O’clock position, tighten pinch bolt with a 10mm wrench until snug.
10. Re-install clutch cover with new gasket. (Don’t forget your clutch disc!) Tighten all 8 screws. Make sure your drain plug is installed and tightened.
11. Re-install right foot peg and mount to frame.
12. Re-install bash plate & fill oil.
Done!
The new kicker will fit with the original kick shaft as long as the splines are not stripped on the kick shaft. If the splines are stripped on the kick shaft, then it’s recommended you replace with the newer, extended kick shaft.
Victor
I can say it was a successful endeavor on Terry’s part! The lever fits the existing kick shaft. If I was going to rebuild the bottom end of this motor, I would strongly recommend installing the longer kick shaft during the rebuild.
Here’s what I had to do to mount it without pulling the motor out of the frame…
1. Remove bash plate. Drain oil and remove clutch
cover.
2. Remove right foot peg and mount assembly from frame.
3. Lock rear brake pedal in a depressed downward position with a screw driver in one of the holes. (Disconnecting brake rod from pedal recommended.)
4. Install new kicker spring & cover.
5. Using a pair of channel locks, rotate spring cover, to line up spring pin with hole on back of kick lever. I held it at about a 3:00 position.
6. Start kick lever on in a downward 6 O’clock position. This lines the hole up with the spring pin being held at the approximate 3:00 position.
7. Tap kick lever onto shaft aligning spring pin into hole. Make sure the spring cover is fully seated into the ring of the case.
8. Rotate kick lever counter clockwise to the 6:00 position to add tension to the return spring.
9. Holding kick lever at 6 O’clock position, tighten pinch bolt with a 10mm wrench until snug.
10. Re-install clutch cover with new gasket. (Don’t forget your clutch disc!) Tighten all 8 screws. Make sure your drain plug is installed and tightened.
11. Re-install right foot peg and mount to frame.
12. Re-install bash plate & fill oil.
Done!
The new kicker will fit with the original kick shaft as long as the splines are not stripped on the kick shaft. If the splines are stripped on the kick shaft, then it’s recommended you replace with the newer, extended kick shaft.
Victor