The Hodaka Club Forum

Max I don't know what your porting consists of but a 100 ported decently can surely handle a 34mm carb and with the of venture dividers and a UFO it will behave small and perform big here is an example picture . Last month a customer of mine set a world record at Bonneville for 50cc with a Honda NS 50 that I ported as well as did carbs for him , I built a 24mm and a 28mm , he ran with the 24mm , He made the first run at 94.5 mph and the second at 89.5 mph and the averaged it at 91.5mph which beat the old record of 85.7 . A notable mention was that the customer said with my carb getting rolling of the line was mush easier and clutch slipping was not needed as with the old set up he ran last year. Also he was clocked at 97mph past the traps. He is working with the 28mm carb this weekend on the dyno for next year. I'm waiting for pictures and testimonial from him to post on my web site.

Rich

Thanks Rich. Cool stuff. I was hoping for your input. The engine is quite a ways out in my slow project but gathering up ideas is part of of the deal.

Max

On painting engine parts:
The Beemer has a natural sand-cast finish, unpainted, that weathers to a nice patina. I knock the oil, dirt and mud off with degreaser every couple of years whether it needs it or not.

The painted side cases on the Hodaka seem to be wear items that will chip, scratch and dull, and will need to be repainted every 2-4 years.

The cylinder head is media-blasted and has a light wire-brush on the flat outer fin surfaces as an accent.

The cliche frame finish nowadays is powder coating. Tough, durable but not retouchupable. My preference is s rattle-can epoxy or urethane paint.

My 2c.

Interesting story on the new cones for the damaged pipe. Fifty years ago we would take a drawing to the local sheet metal shop and a guy named Gordon would whip you up a set of cones to make a pipe. My old short tracker that I still have hanging around has these specialty parts. Gordo, I called him, retired many years ago and still fiddles in his shop. Wow! Just like the old days, I'm off, taking a pattern to Gordo for cones!

Next it's off to my clever guy Rodney who builds Hot Rods and specialty exhaust. After I showed him the drawings of the cone I figured out he said to add 1/4" on all sides to allow for adjustment. Just for laughs I had Gordo make two cones, One to my specs and one to Rodney's specs. Hopefully mine will fall right in there making my point, well maybe.

In other news, today is the day of the annual Dawg Daze Car Show which this year decided to drop motorcycles citing "lack of interest". Eweleen and I decide to boycott the event for our "lack of interest'' after all our years of participation. New management we think. Things come and go. Not bitter but disappointed in their thinking.

Well, that's my report, things moving along slowly, actually at my pace.

Max

Ah, the new rear sets have arrived and all looks well. I still haven't pinned the riding position down to finalize the mounting plates. I was a bit bogged down trying to visualize all of this and having parts in hand really helps. The controls look as advertised, adjustable pivot arms, made by a guy in Arkansas and reasonably priced at $80 with free shipping. I've been shopping shafts, rods and ends for the linkage, all cheap and available. I'm also waiting on the back ordered rear tire which would make the ground clearance to foot peg distance easier to measure.

Maxie

I like it...

More. I needed a lever on the shifter shaft and after a search saw that many levers were bolted to the shaft. I found an old shaft with damaged splines and threaded over the splines. Behind the splines is a tapered shoulder and the lever was countersunk for more contact and alignment. The lever was fabricated from aluminum and I even drilled a hole in it to make Victor happy. All is solid and seems workable. I need to go to Ace and find a shorter height nut and lock washer. The big nut looks a little clunky so I dressed up the lever a bit for distraction.

Max

So the pattern is "up for first" and down moving up thru the gears. And I'll betcha you can move the rearset linkage lever 180* around to get that new-fangled std pattern. I guess you made the linkage lever ratio 1:1 to the input lever throw the same, and know that the lever throw can be modified to larger or smaller than stock to suit prefs.

What is your source of ball (Heim) joints?
ACE hardware has them, and McMaster-Carr prolly has higher quality ones.

Looking good...


Edi-- right, Captn, it is.an ACE 100 shifter. Sometimes I go Ack Basswards.

It looks to me like pressing down on the rear-set shift lever will move the case shift lever forward (up). So this will be a "down-for-first" shift pattern for the rider. Just what was wanted (I think) with the ACE 100 shift cover and the rear-set linkage.

Looking nifty!
Ed

Hey Bill, VXB.com has all kinds of joints. I buy bearings from them. I guess I missed the joints at Ace. I'll check it out!

Max

Wow! Drilling a hole JUST FOR Me!!! LOL! Thanks Max! I'm gonna start using my variable size drill bits for holes, JUST in your honor! And I have this fuel tank I'm thinking about modifying to make it lighter!!! Victor

VXB is a top-notch source that
I did not know. Their Heim joints would be much better. They have RH/LH threaded joints for precise adjustment, tho two RH thd'd ones would be adequate and easier to fab.

Rich! From what kind of material do you make the Venturi dividers, what holds them in place and how do you know where to place them? Victor

I guess it's time to fess up and give a report on my seemingly expensive and Italian looking clip on race bars. First of all it's hard to find clip ons for 27mm forks and all were expensive. Ah, E-bay, fits 25-29mm forks with enclosed spacers. Chinese of course, $20, free shipping. I've been fooled before but at twenty bucks, not much to lose in this day and time.

They arrived in about a week and my wife asked me what I ordered from China. They were actually quite cool. Of course they fit 25mm and 29mm forks but not 27mm with enclosed spacers. Another $25 at the machine shop and I'm in business! Reaming split cylindric spacers is not as easy as it sounds and my machinist was easy on me. OK, $45 for Italian looking cool clip ons, Not bad!

Maxie

Nice clipons. Can we have an "ah so" ?

Here's a mock-up for a steering damper idea from stuff laying around the shop. The front mounting plate will be thicker like 1/4" aluminum and I need to figure out some mount to attach the rear to the frame tube. That's about where the rear needs to be positioned to stay in a plane perpendicular to the rake. Anyone see any fatal flaws or have a better idea? One doesn't want to be shook off at mach speeds.

Maxie

I like the steering damper.
The other alternative is on the upper tripple with the rod forward and the eye attached to the upper frame. Do-able because the tank is small and set back. Another alt. is "conventional" with the damper behind the upper tripple and perpendicular to the upper frame tube. Geometry might need odd levers.

I still like your original.

PS-- forgot to attach pic:

Just a report on getting the damper installed. It's hard to find a bolt to tube mount and even Ace Hardware didn't have such things. I finally found a clutch lever holder with a broken lever. After removing the lever a 1/4" piece of aluminum fit in the lever slot perfect. I then fabricated a plate to bolt to both lever holder and shock. What a bunch of fiddling that was but I finally got everything to line up eventually. I think this will work! I almost looks factory until you figure it out. Yet another problem solved.

Maxie

Do you have it dampening against the magneto cover? It looks like the dampener piston stops at the case. Tell me it ain’t so! I don’t think you would do that Max! One good Whack, would sure put a hole in the case if that’s the scenario! Set me straight please!!! Victor

Hey Victor! All is well. Nine inches to the magneto cover and the travel of the shaft end is only plus or minus one inch. It was like photographing a fisherman's catch close with a wide angle lens and the fish looks bigger, in this case the shock and perspective are exaggerated to fool you! The post of mine above shows the situation better.

Maxie

Gotta love wide angle lens distortion! Victor

Here's a mock-up for the recording GPS speedometer if I ever get to that point. I've been studying GPS speedometers/tachometers and several have a 60mm gauge hole and about the same depth. I'm not ready at this point to purchase this expensive unit but let's consider one. I was thinking a bend in the plate at first but the viewing is in your face in riding position. I put some fake digital numbers on the face to remind what this project is about and to make you laugh hopefully. The bolts need to have a little more class, maybe some Allen heads. Hmm, it doesn't look too bad for a piece of floor tile and a rattle can top.

Hey, unlikely that this will all come to be but one needs a path to follow on projects! We'll see.

Report,

Maxie

Why limit yourself to 102.6 mph? If a 50cc Honda can do 97, and a 100cc Daytona effort reached near 110, seems to me yours can do at least 103.

Ah, thanks for the encouragement Jack! One step at a time. The goal is to exceed 100MPH with my old race technology. It's good to set goal even if perhaps unachievable but does define a course. A few of the problems are evident. I weigh 165-170 pounds. We need someone much lighter to drive like a petite, less than 100 pound rider would be good. Next we'll need some streamlining and even more weight removed. My dual purpose land speed attempt/roadracer as made for some compromises. Big brakes for road racing has added several pounds and it needs narrower and lighter aluminum rims and tires. All still possible. I guess the primary goal to entertain me is working as I'm having a great time on the new project.

Thoughts,

Maxie

Max! It’s all about the fun! If it isn’t, why do it? I think I would change the speedo to read 108.997! LOL!!! ; D Victor