I recently purchased a Hodaka shifter case (not ACE 100) on ebay to convert my 92 B+ to the newer shift pattern. My new case has some problems.
The hole for the foot change shaft is egg shaped, making for a lot of up and down slop.
Also, the lower rear cover screw hole is blocked by the shifter pin.
I had a difficult time finding this case and would like to repair it if possible.
___________________________________________________________________________________________
eicho1 - 04/01/08 at 10:20pm
You have done the hard part. Finding a good cover. The shaft hole can be reamed, or drilled, and bushings installed.
The shifter pin is probably blocking the hole because someone used it without the screw installed. Unless the shims are out of alignment, or it's dirty/corroded, it should slide back in. It would be a good time to take it all apart, clean it up, and replace any worn pieces. If you don't have a manual, or aren't comfortable doing it yourself, Strictly Hodaka has some recommendations on their site.
Hope this helps
Mark in Illinois
VMX # 492
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Bullfrog - 04/02/08 at 12:00am
I would suggest a slight change in Mark's wording . . . the foot change shaft bore SHOULD (actually, must) be reamed and bushed . . . he had it dialed in on everything else.
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Larry_S - 04/03/08 at 5:05pm
Is the part number a Hodaka number or a bushing number? I guess my question should be, do I need to get the bushing from Paul, or can I go to the local bearing supply and get the bushing? Thank you for the help.
___________________________________________________________________________________________
SocalHodaka - 04/03/08 at 9:03pm
Larry, most of the guy's on Paul's site I think will do the repair. I do think you can get a bushing from a local shop. You would need to measure you worn case and shaft and get a bushing that would be a little oversize on the OD and undersized on the ID. Buy a reamer and go for it. Ream the case a little under so the bushing will have a little press fit, maybe need to heat the case up a little. Then ream the ID of the bushing so the shaft fits with a little drag. I think you need to maybe drill a grease hole also. Kelly
___________________________________________________________________________________________
sachs175 - 04/03/08 at 9:04pm
Larry,
You can make your own bushes or have a machine shop do that for you but i don't think you will find bushes that are the right size to do this job from a bearing manufacturer .
I have a lathe and could make the bushings but the cost of the bushing material and the time involved makes it not worth it when i can buy bushes ready to go from Paul.
Have someone that knows how do the reaming on the case , like Ed suggested. It needs to be a straight hole the right size for an interference fit so the bush will stay in place once pressed in.
Hope this helps,
John D.
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Bullfrog - 04/03/08 at 9:34pm
The hole needs to be in the right place too - and some expertise in properly reaming out the hole can be an aid. How do you find the proper center from an egg-shaped hole?
George Cone and Charlie Robinson know how to place the hole properly - see the strictly hodaka web site for guidance to those folks.
___________________________________________________________________________________________
dirtsquirt80 - 04/03/08 at 10:49pm
Do most guys use a reamer or can it be done on a drill press? thank's Scott
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Bullfrog - 04/04/08 at 12:20am
. . . most guys send their shifter cases to George or Charlie for this sort of work. (that's what I do anyway)
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Forum Admin - 04/04/08 at 4:39am
Larry I am sorry for the delay getting back to you. It has been very very busy around here as usual.
It is 3:30 am and in a couple hours I get on a plane for Texas to race .
Our bushings are what I believe are an improvement over the stock Hodaka bushings. Ours are both the same I.D. and O.D. but the inner bushing is 6mm longer to better support the shift shaft. Also these have dimples on the inside for better lubrication ( grease retension ).
All of the Hodaka mechanics have these in stock. Like what Ed said I too send my assembly off to be repaired. These guys have the correct reamer in stock and do a complete repair for more than a fair price. Right now I think George Cone has only one motor on his bench so I might think to give him a call. If you do please tell him I say hello.
Again sorry for the delay getting back.
Paul
___________________________________________________________________________________________
hodakarnwa - 04/04/08 at 2:41pm
I don't disagree with anyone of the great responses to this topic.
I also think that the shifter cover is a commonly overlooked section of the hodaka engine. More information should be presented and made available to the hodaka people.
I am very particular about hodaka shifter covers and spend major effort to take them serious do to the importance of their part of the hodaka engine.
I do not use the hodaka bushing which in my opinion is a quick but not always a precise solution.
Here is what I do.
First off besides the bore of the cases being worn out of round, the actual shaft has also become word out of round, OK?
So you have two areas to repair or replace?
You can buy bronze bushings at any complete hardware store which will accommodate the dimensions required for a couple dollars.
Do not use a drill press or a hand drill to bore your cases. The correct method to make things perfect is to use a mill with a boring head. The center must be indicated in with a dial indicator. Bore the hole ID just .001" under the bushing O.D. so it will be a secure positive press fit. I also use Loc-Tite cylindrical Part retainer. The bushing must be trimmed custom for both the inside and the outside of the cover and not protrude into the path of the shifter arm pin area. Now you must mike the shifter shaft to see what the out of round measures. Then I place the shaft into the lathe and polish the shaft until a new round dimension is obtained which is true and round again. Better Than new.......
Now I place the case back into the mill and bore the bushings until I have about .003" clearance over the polished shift shaft.
It seems like a lot of work and a bit complicated but I have done several of these repairs over the years and the extra effort is worth the cost and time. These covers are getting very difficult to find a good one and a perfect shifter cover is a perfect shifter.
After all this machining is completed then the actual assembly of the shifting components is another job which is very important. This is covered very nicely in the actual Combat Wombat shop manual which is available from Strictly hodaka.
I have found several rebushed covers where the replacement bushings are loose and moving out of place in the shifter cover and actually again start wearing the cases.
I can also make a special inside bushing to repair the area where the ratchet return spring has cracked or broken away in bronze which will wear better than the steel or the aluminum.
This work is not cheap but when you consider that a new case is expensive if you can find one? It is worth every penny spent. Cost is based on how much damage needs to be repaired.
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Larry_S - 04/04/08 at 4:51pm
Thank you to everyone who answered my post. This forum is an amazing source of information.
I took Hodadaronwa's advice and took my case and the foot change shaft to a local machine shop. They are going to ream the hole on their mill so that it's perfectly centered, polish the foot change shaft to make sure it's round, then make a bushing to put it all together.
Thanks!
___________________________________________________________________________________________
hodakaronwa - 04/05/08 at 1:06pm
Larry S
You will be much better satisfied doing things the way you have described and should come out with a nice repair. Remember to follow the instructions in your shop manual and shim the shifter arm pin as described. You may also want to look over the other components for wear. The shifter arm ball? can wear excessively, the key which moves the ball receiver can become very loose in it's hole? I have found that these parts are best purchased new from Strictly Hodaka or from other sources. This all seems like a lot of effort and cost but these covers seem to work for a long time once everything is right to begin with. I pull mine off and remove the inner steel cover from time to time, wash and lube them with fresh grease. Man I have seen so many where grease has been continually pumped through the grease nipples until the cover is actually literally packed solid. I don't think the owner ever pulled the little inspection cover to see what was in there? This grease eventually solidifies and causes the mechanisms to not work properly.
Make sure you replace the foam gasket between the steel cover and the case. And here is another trick to prolong the life of your shift shaft and bushing.
I take and use a gasket hole punch set and a leftover piece of foam filter foam. I punch out a round about 1" OD I then punch a hole in the center which will snugly slide over the external protruding shifter shaft between the case and the actual shifter pedal. OK? Now re-install the pedal and you have made a nice dust seal which prevents dust from getting around the bushing and shifter shaft. The dust from life as a dirt bike is partially what assists in the wearing out of your shifter shaft bushing. This is avery old hodaka trick from running 50 milers in the desert.
___________________________________________________________________________________________
END OF THREAD