74 Super Combat Suspension

[trav99ss]

Hello,

I'm working on my first Hodaka, a '74 Super Combat and need some advice on the rear shocks. I've got a set of NOS RedWing forks on the front which are about 1 1/2 to 2" longer than the stock Hodaka forks. Was thinking I'd need to go up an inch on the rear shocks (the ones on it are 12 1/2"). I weigh about 200lbs and ride in the A class in enduro on my YZ250. Any advice on which shocks to get? I've been told the progressive's are pretty good, but I only see them listed on the site by bike and I'm guessing the ones listed for the Super Combat would be to short.

Made some decent progress so far, still needs a new seat cover, plastic tank for racing and a few odds and ends.




Thanks,
Travis

[dirty_rat]

Travis,

I run 14 1/2" Works Performance shocks on my race bikes and they work well. I do extend the forks in the triple clamps so I keep the rack at approximately 29-30 degrees. I know that Progressive does make different length shocks, so you might want to call Paul at Strictly Hodaka and see what he can get you.

[dirty_rat]

Forgot to mention, the bike is looking good.

[Zyx]

Changing suspension lengths takes some thought and planning. For example, raising the front with longer legs increases rake and trail, and will adversely effect handling imho. Unless you already know that the bike turns too tightly for you and you need to damp down steering response, I wouldn't raise it an inch and a half. In the rear, longer shocks will jack up the back, and push the swing arm down, creating a sharper angle between frame and swing arm, which will adversely effect the chain. The Hodaka does not use a swing arm concentric countershaft drive, which makes the chain travel back and forth across a range of tension from loose to firm to loose as it travels from full droop to full stuff. This is really hard on chains and sprockets, and is one of the reasons the Super Combat uses two chain guide rollers. Lifting the rear with longer shocks will make the situation more extreme.

I would suggest staying fairly close to the original specs, and to do so you may need to raise the fork tubes in the triple tree clamp. If your current forks rely on the shoulder in the top clamp to stop the fork from sliding all the way through the top clamp, you may need to remove that shoulder and allow the forks to extend an inch above the top clamp to put the steering geometry back near the original spec.

I would also not recommend longer forks with stock length shocks in the back, which creates a chopper effect as in Easy Rider. If you have ever ridden a chopper you will have an idea of how this totally screws up handling. Don't know why it was so popular with the Harley crowd.

Anyway, a half inch extra in the forks would probably go unnoticed, but an inch and a half would make the bike squirrly I think. Raising both ends equally would make for a very tall bike, would possibly bottom out the swing arm on droop (the swing arm will hit the frame if it droops too far). This could happen,for example, when getting a little air over a jump, and would whip the chain a lot and could beat up the frame and swing arm.

Others may have a way of dealing with changes on this magnitude, but I would expect them to include changing the steering head angle by cutting and welding the frame, and using a spring loaded chain guide with a lot of travel, or possible lengthening the swing arm while using stock shocks.

Whatever you choose to do, work through it carefully so you don't have a bike that is hard to handle in the dirt, or which puts too much stress on a forty year old frame.

[Zyx]

Progressive offers shocks in different lengths, 13.5, 14.5 both work in this application, but an inch of rear shock does not get you an inch of lift because the shocks are laid over.

[Pep]

Travis, congrats on setting up a cool bike! it looks great!
I see others have already replied while I was typing, but I'll throw in my initial reply anyway:
I've used Progressives (Paul can set you up with correct lengths) - they are definitely affordable, but for hard racing, consider them disposable by the end of a season or two (not rebuildable).
Better performers come at a price, but you might consider the Mart Tripes edition of Noleens (I don't have experience with them but other folks report good results). I've used Works, and of course Race Techs and Ohlin$$ are mighty fine too. All of those are rebuildable, so you can justify the investment (sort of )
Running 34mm late Hodaka forks, a lot of folks shoot for the 14" - 14 1/4" - 14 1/2". There are people on this forum that can give better insight with regards to geometry.
On tanks, Clarke of course makes a Hodaka style tank, but for mx, you might consider a lower profile clarke tank...guys tell me the "Hodaka Hump" can be a bit...painful.
Here's a photo of the tank I'm talking about on my 97 (sorry bout the mud)
Laurie
P.S. The later/longer fork swap + shock length is a very common mod for Hodaka racers - I have not heard of anyone running into problems with this, FWIW.
Also, one thing you might consider is swapping to a conical hub up front - much better braking. I've laced up an 03 hub on a few of my bikes, and have been very happy (and grateful at certain tracks). The stock 95, 97, etc. hub - I refer to as a "comical hub".
All that said, you picked a great little Sportsman 125 bike - reliable, quick, and way fun. I think you're going to enjoy the heck out of it!