Control Rod not moving
Control Rod not moving
OK. I put the newly rebuilt control rod/counter shaft assembly back in the transmission. But, every time I close up the cases, the control rod won't move in and out. I've tried it with the control rod pushed all the way in, (5th gear I believe) & with it pulled all the way out (1st gear?).
It moves freely when I have the shaft out of the case, or mounted into the right side case with the left side off. But the minute I get the left side half of the tranny bolted down, the control rod won't move others than a slight bounce of the springs. So it won't shift through the gears!
Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong! I am doing it the reassembly as per the shop manual!!! Thanks!
It moves freely when I have the shaft out of the case, or mounted into the right side case with the left side off. But the minute I get the left side half of the tranny bolted down, the control rod won't move others than a slight bounce of the springs. So it won't shift through the gears!
Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong! I am doing it the reassembly as per the shop manual!!! Thanks!
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
- Bullfrog
- Posts: 2781
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 4:05 pm
- Location: Oregon, 12 miles from the center of the Hodaka Universe(Athena)
Re: Control Rod not moving
Try again while rotating the mainshaft or the counter shaft. The gears inside MUST be turning to allow things to rotate into proper alignment to allow the ball receiver to move out of the "lock" position. Gear "release" and "next gear" engagement requires gear rotation/movement.
Ed
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
Re: Control Rod not moving
So Ed, are you saying that if I put it back together (in which case I can't rotate the gears) that when I start it up I shouldn't have any issues? That's fine if il this is a correct statement. Maybe just depressing the kick shaft will move things enough?
I just don't want to keep screwing things up and having to resplit the cases over .& over again! -Victor
Edit: I guess I can put the main shaft gear on and turn it that way, before reinstalling the clutch basket???
I just don't want to keep screwing things up and having to resplit the cases over .& over again! -Victor
Edit: I guess I can put the main shaft gear on and turn it that way, before reinstalling the clutch basket???
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
- Bullfrog
- Posts: 2781
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 4:05 pm
- Location: Oregon, 12 miles from the center of the Hodaka Universe(Athena)
Re: Control Rod not moving
No. What I'm saying is that when the cases are put back together, the gears should turn freely AND that you need to rotate the gears to allow the control shaft to move "in" and "out". If the gears are not rotating/moving, you will find situations where the control shaft can not be moved in and out.
So . . .
MAJOR PROBLEM = cases assembled and gears will not smoothly and easily rotate. (do not pass GO and do not collect $200)
Procedural problem = cases are assembled and gears will rotate smoothly and expecting the control shaft to move through it's complete travel without rotating the gears. (change the procedure . . . rotate the gears while testing to see if the control shaft will move in and out).
Ed
So . . .
MAJOR PROBLEM = cases assembled and gears will not smoothly and easily rotate. (do not pass GO and do not collect $200)
Procedural problem = cases are assembled and gears will rotate smoothly and expecting the control shaft to move through it's complete travel without rotating the gears. (change the procedure . . . rotate the gears while testing to see if the control shaft will move in and out).
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
Re: Control Rod not moving
OK Ed! I follow you. I will mount the big gear on the main shaft and see if I can turn the gears and move the control rod! S
; ) Victor
; ) Victor
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
Re: Control Rod not moving
Which model Hodaka are you working on?
The shop manual gear stack doesn't apply to the 03 Wombat, or the Dirt Squirt 80.
Mark in Illinois
#492
The shop manual gear stack doesn't apply to the 03 Wombat, or the Dirt Squirt 80.
Mark in Illinois
#492
Nut Bros Racing. Doing more with less since 2007! Ride 'em, don't hide 'em. Join The Hodaka Club! Only $24.00!
Re: Control Rod not moving
Another item to check is to make sure the counter shaft bearing in the left case half is fully seated.
If it's not, it could bind up the gear stack. Been there, done that.
Mark in Illinois
# 492
If it's not, it could bind up the gear stack. Been there, done that.
Mark in Illinois
# 492
Nut Bros Racing. Doing more with less since 2007! Ride 'em, don't hide 'em. Join The Hodaka Club! Only $24.00!
Re: Control Rod not moving
Mark. I have a Frankenbike! LOL! It consists of a 1976 Model 03 frame/rolling chassis, with a Model 94 bottom end and a model 95 top end. I can confirm the bottom end by the serial number on the casing. the top end I confirm by the exhaust port and gasket required.
I just got new seals and bushings for the bike. The one sent to me for the countershaft in the right side of the case didn't fit the shaft. It wouldn't spin. So I had to put the old one back in. Then the shaft would turn. I didn't get outside today to check and try Ed's recommendations but will do so tomorrow and see if I get positive results. I confirmed with another forum member that the shoulders all go to the left facing the counter shaft sprocket and installed them that way. So, as far as I know they are all in correctly, yes??? - Victor
I just got new seals and bushings for the bike. The one sent to me for the countershaft in the right side of the case didn't fit the shaft. It wouldn't spin. So I had to put the old one back in. Then the shaft would turn. I didn't get outside today to check and try Ed's recommendations but will do so tomorrow and see if I get positive results. I confirmed with another forum member that the shoulders all go to the left facing the counter shaft sprocket and installed them that way. So, as far as I know they are all in correctly, yes??? - Victor
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
Re: Control Rod not moving
Victor I found the same issue with my Model 96 Dirt Squirt when I fitted a new counter-shaft bushing in the right side casing, I put it down to either the bush had closed up after being fitted (I heated the casing up in the Weber to a point of the bush being a tap fit) or possibly some miss alignment in the casings from manufacture.
The above aside, I brought a set of adjustable Reamers out of India on Ebay, gave said bush a couple of thou of extra clearance and all is sweet and I now have a set of adjustable Reamers!
Shane
The above aside, I brought a set of adjustable Reamers out of India on Ebay, gave said bush a couple of thou of extra clearance and all is sweet and I now have a set of adjustable Reamers!
Shane
Re: Control Rod not moving
Frankenbikes, or as I call them, "bitsa bikes", are some of my favorites.
I have a couple of them myself.
Yes, for the 94 transmission, all shoulders to the left. I assume this transmission was assembled when you got it. Another thing to look out for is using the proper gears/kick starter gear when sorting through a box of parts. Unless you count the teeth, they all look the same.
Mark in Illinois
#492
I have a couple of them myself.
Yes, for the 94 transmission, all shoulders to the left. I assume this transmission was assembled when you got it. Another thing to look out for is using the proper gears/kick starter gear when sorting through a box of parts. Unless you count the teeth, they all look the same.
Mark in Illinois
#492
Nut Bros Racing. Doing more with less since 2007! Ride 'em, don't hide 'em. Join The Hodaka Club! Only $24.00!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests