Carburetor

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Dunn111987
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:15 am

Carburetor

Post by Dunn111987 »

Anyone used a combat wombat carburetor on a model 94 wombat? I’ve searched the forum, but didn’t come up with any answers or ideas. I wanted to replace my stock carburetor (that has leaking issues around an ill fitting fuel line fitting that keeps loosening up) with a brand new clean one and I bought the 28 mm carb with slip fit and a combat wombat intake manifold. Just wondering what anyone has used for jetting in a bigger carb on a wombat? I apologize in advance for asking so darn many questions, but I just get really curious
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Bullfrog
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Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 4:05 pm
Location: Oregon, 12 miles from the center of the Hodaka Universe(Athena)

Re: Carburetor

Post by Bullfrog »

While I'm sure the 28mm carb can be tuned to work properly - I think you are going to have some issues. 1) The Combat Wombat intake manifold is made accept a flange mount carb 2) if you run the standard Wombat exhaust system, you are not likely to realize any noticeable performance improvement with the larger carb. 3) You will have to expend considerable time and effort tune the 28mm carb for this installation (are you an experienced Mikuni tuner and ready to take on the task?)
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
Dunn111987
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:15 am

Re: Carburetor

Post by Dunn111987 »

All I’m looking for is a bike that will run properly. I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel or anything. I have 2 of those old standard wombat carbs that have the same issue. And I’m not wanting to buy yet another old worn out carburetor that leaks and doesnt work correct. I’ve had thoughts of just selling the bike, but I’m tired of giving up and letting things go to waste that I put a lot of time and money into. I’m looking for a solution to have a good working carburetor and a good running bike to enjoy.
taber hodaka
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Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:34 pm

Re: Carburetor

Post by taber hodaka »

To me it looks like you already purchased the new carburetor and a usable intake. So the question is can you tune it and where should you start? Do you have any hodaka friends close or biker neighbors? The Ace 90 manual covers tuning very well, The official hodaka workshop manual 209004 includes the wombat 94 and 94A, it also covers the combat wombat model 95 , It covers tuning very well and covers just the models in question, I think it is the last workshop manual produced. Trust what it tells you and do what it says. If your old carb worked well but leaked, I have used a sealer that will seal well, I have used it on brass floats and leaky gas tanks. It comes in a yellow tube and is called seal all and it will seal a tank while it is leaking. ---- Clarence
Dunn111987
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:15 am

Re: Carburetor

Post by Dunn111987 »

Thank you Clarence. I don’t really have any biker friends nearby or Hodaka friends that I know well enough to help me. I live in the Columbia River Gorge about 2 hours west of Athena. I have that workshop manual you mentioned and I’m gonna try to thoroughly clean the carburetor per Ed’s resonator article and check my timing out again. I have installed the VAPE ignition on the bike, so no more points or condenser. Will also try to seal that fitting to see if it might just work! I appreciate any tips or hints given here on this forum! I will try anything and try to learn all I can in hopes of someday being good at working on these great motorcycles!
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Bullfrog
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Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 4:05 pm
Location: Oregon, 12 miles from the center of the Hodaka Universe(Athena)

Re: Carburetor

Post by Bullfrog »

So it sounds like you are going to try the "SealsAll" - a good "old school" sealer. In which case, I would recommend that you consider "staking" the brass fuel inlet tube while the SealsAll is setting up. I haven't actually done this EXACT operation on a carb, so I'm guessing about procedure . . . but I imagine that sitting in a chair and using the "knee vise" (clamping the carb between your knees) - you could get a proper "strike" on a sharp center punch with a small hammer to make 3 or 4 "dents" in the Mikuni casting equally spaced around (and close to) the fuel inlet pipe. The slight displacement of metal will help mechanically "lock" the fuel inlet pipe into the carb casting. Don't get too aggressive with the hammer and center punch - you are only trying to just stop the wiggle (looseness) you reported - and the SealsAll will handle the fuel leakage.
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
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